Front Fender Warning - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #21 of 53 Old 10-03-2013, 08:20 PM
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NC & ME
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I took my fender off after work today and was concerned about these fasteners. I sprayed them with PB Blaster and then waited a little bit. I wedged a screw driver along side the square nuts and then used my 3/8" drive impact wrench to remove them. Not much trouble since I was warned! I can't believe that they used what appears to be "permanent" thread locker on these connections.
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post #22 of 53 Old 07-05-2014, 09:14 PM
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Orlando
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I really don't understand Suzuki's thought process on this one.
My guess. Someone somewhere had a front fender fall off or almost fall off. Suzuki legal heard about it and their answer was to put thread locker on the bolts. No more fenders falling off. When you screw things up, taking the bolts out, the repair is on you.
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post #23 of 53 Old 11-15-2014, 09:23 AM
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Some posts here went off topic to Fenda Extenda installation. They were moved to

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s

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post #24 of 53 Old 03-17-2015, 01:31 PM
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Location: Virginia
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Thank you for the tip. For this reason I chose to andd my fenda entender without removing the front wheel. Was a pain but I shied away from the issues you warned about.
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post #25 of 53 Old 05-29-2015, 03:21 AM
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Forewarned is forearmed. Thank goodness for this forum and this post. One tip I can add is to reach up in the recess and put a smear of grease on the end of the bolt. I then jammed a screwdriver in-between the square nut and the recess. I could not see what I was doing but could feel when the screwdriver was properly jammed in. Then I was able to crack open the bolt without any problem and as it unscrewed the grease helped to ease it out and I could feel it getting easier and easier. Manufacturers over using locket is a a pain and reminds me of a previous era when Japanese makers used an air gun to do up all the crosshead screws holding a bike together. Without an impact driver it was impossible to get anything undone without mashing the screw head. I hardly ever need the impact driver these days, although still handy for the occasionally seized bolt/screw.
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post #26 of 53 Old 07-04-2015, 09:09 PM
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You can't get the front fender off with out removing the front wheel. Somewhere along the way I missed that bit of information. Anyway the orange coated allen bolts came out without incident using a needle nose pliers poked up under the fender & grasping that "V" shaped inside plate. Now I can jiggle the fender for a little more room to put on that fenda extenda I hope.
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post #27 of 53 Old 07-11-2015, 08:13 PM
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Glad I read about this. I would have run into it while reworking my forks with the Cogent Dynamics stuff. Now I have a plan for dealing with the fender.
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post #28 of 53 Old 07-13-2015, 03:23 PM
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I ran into a different problem with the bolts on the fender. I didn't have much of a problem with the rear bolts with the nut/washer in the plastic fender. But the front bolts that screw into the forks were a problem. They too had some thread locker on them. The recess for the hex bit was so shallow that I had trouble getting enough bite with the bit that it ended up rounding it out. Luckily, there was enough of the mushroom head exposed after a few turns I could get vice grips on them. The bolts ended up with a nice knurling to the edges by the time I was done. Hard to see how they were worth $3.50 at the dealer, but I ordered them. I couldn't use a standard bolt because it has the standoff on the bolt so it doesn't crush the fender.

But I got the fork boots installed.

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post #29 of 53 Old 07-22-2015, 10:04 AM
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I just removed the front fender on my 2015. It was actually pretty easy.

The key, I believe, was that I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads from the inside (after removing the front wheel). Then I let it sit for about 10 minutes, and used a close fitting Bondhus allen T driver and applied pressure until the bond broke. After that, the PB Blaster penetrated and all four screws came out fairly easily. I did not have to hold the square nut (except with my fingers pressing it back into the recess while spinning the allen wrench), or jam anything in there.

If you are going to do this job, get a can of PB Blaster (it's generally useful stuff to have around anyway, you are not buying it just for this particular job, you'll need it again sometime for something else).

And use high quality straight ended (not ball end) allens like the Bondhus T-handle set I have. Ball ends won't go deep enough into the relatively shallow recess and make it much easier to round out the hex recess.

"The trouble ain't that there is too many fools, but that the lightning ain't distributed right."

- Mark Twain, Angels Camp, CA
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post #30 of 53 Old 01-01-2016, 08:44 PM
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I removed my fender to install a Fenda Extenda without removing the front wheel. The first rear screw did not come out very well. The second rear bolt removed easier with I figured out I could wedge a screw driver next to the plastic tab holding the nut and remove the bolt.

Thanks for the info on this topic.

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