moose racing contour handguard install ?'s - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-30-2012, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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moose racing contour handguard install ?'s

so how much vibration am i going to get if i take the bar weights off? i put them on last night but tried it with weights stacked on top of the guards and couldn't tell any difference in the feel of the bars this morning, but it looks kind of ghetto. also thinking about machining the weights to fit around the guards.

thoughts?
opinions?
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-30-2012, 11:41 AM
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I put the contours on using the Original bar end weights, the steel sleeve in the large bushing fit right through the Coutour bar and appears as if it is intended to go thorugh the factory knuckle guards. No cutting of fussing with it. You do need to be sure to pull the whole bar end out. Loosen it then pop it in with your palm and extract the whole assembly. I have the bar end hanging on the outside of the contour guard and like the way it looks. Serves as a crash guard too.

You can always just use the clamps that came with the kit, but I did not want to loose the large rubber that was plugging the handlebar.

Based on my other bikes, the Vibes are managable with the new metal handguard and no bar ends because they guards tend to stiffen or at least alter the resonance of the bar. Either way this bike does not vibe like my KLR.

Heres a link to my post in the Handguards thread with pics: https://www.stromtrooper.com/846227-post40.html

DRS650

Last edited by DSRider650; 08-30-2012 at 11:44 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-30-2012, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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well, they're doing well and while they have a flatter profile than i thought they would, they keep the wind off nicely. here's some pics:







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post #4 of 11 Old 09-03-2012, 07:45 PM
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Question for both.

R1ng3l78, I notice on your install that you did not have to cut off the ball at the end of the clutch lever. DRS650's post stated that he had to cut it off for his install.

My question is this just a matter of positioning of the handguard? It looks as though R1ng3l78 has the levers angled down slightly and the handguards are level.

DRS650 would you mind posting a picture of your clutch side install?

A big Thanks to you both on this, I have been debating on what type of handguard to get. Theses look to be a great middle ground between the Suzuki hand guards and the Barkbusters.

Ray

DL650AL2 "WEE" Strom, (I'll never call it a Glee, noob or not).

Grip Puppies; SW-Motech Center Stand; SW-Motech Crash bars; Touratech Skid Plate; Bike Viz Bullets; Stebel Nautilus and a Front Fenda Extenda. Ebay special Brake and Clutch Levers; Wolfman Explorer Lite tankbag; Givi V46 TopCase.
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-04-2012, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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in fairness, the clutch does tap the guard and the other day, it caught on me at a red light. but sliding the lever 1/4" inboard should clear it. that or dremel 1/8" off the top of the ball. there's all sorts of ways to adjust it. the brake side i can't squeeze hard enough to get it to hit. if you look at the brackets on the inside of the guards in my pics, you'll see i had to rotate mine to go over the hardline in the master cylinder. DR was able to go under on his so his levers are probably rotated more level than mine.
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-04-2012, 09:23 PM
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Here's my clutch side:


I cut the whole ball off and probably did not need to.
After the first couple of miles I don't really even notice. The clutch works fine and I am confident they won't catch at all. I do have my levers set levle for road/seated riding and will rotate them down when I plan on doing any trail work where I'll be standing. I need risers and a flatter bar without as much pull back though before I really try much of that. probably get some new cleated footpegs for that too.

I moved both sides in at first to clear the guards, but found the clutch was hitting the housing, so I had to move it back out.

It's all good. A new clutch lever is very easy to pick up and install if I want to switch back.

TW

Last edited by DSRider650; 09-04-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-04-2012, 10:22 PM
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Thumbs up

That's great info, and the pic is excellent, just what I was wondering about.

Today I got in my E-bay special levers. One thing I notice is they are ever so slightly shorter than the stockers. Probably a 1/4" so that might work out for the best.

Now all I need to do is bite the bullet and order some handguards.

Thanks again,
Ray

DL650AL2 "WEE" Strom, (I'll never call it a Glee, noob or not).

Grip Puppies; SW-Motech Center Stand; SW-Motech Crash bars; Touratech Skid Plate; Bike Viz Bullets; Stebel Nautilus and a Front Fenda Extenda. Ebay special Brake and Clutch Levers; Wolfman Explorer Lite tankbag; Givi V46 TopCase.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-14-2013, 06:33 PM
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I just installed my Moose Handguards- they're pretty straightforward, actually.

However, be careful, as it looks like the bar attachment has changed. Instead of a single curved arm that you can turn both ways in order to get the brake line or clutch cable out of the way, mine came with straight pillars with small holes in them. On the clutch side, I had to drill it out, and run my clutch cable through it in order to make it work. I'm a little concerned about premature wear on the cable, but I think I got it tweaked so it's close enough to in-line to not make a terrible difference. I will keep an eye on it.

On the brake side, the brake line comes stupidly close to the bar attachment, and only by turning the entire master cylinder assembly a few degrees did I get it so everything lines up. Both the levers are angled down a few degrees to get everything to fit, and with the bike straight up, it's fairly comfortable and the handguards are straight forward.

Bar ends went on flawlessly- take the screw loose, pull the assembly out a few CM, then undo the screw and take the weight off. When reassembling, torque it down until it's tight- even though the screw is smaller diameter than the hole in the Moose guard, it's tight enough to not make a difference- no vibes or loose anything. Way easier than fabbing up something to work with the Moose equipment they send or doing without the ends.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-08-2013, 02:25 PM
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The "Contour" kit should have come with the curved inner mounts. The Straight mounts come with the normal Moose MX bar kit.

Here is a link to Dennis Kirk to see the difference. Not a plug for DK, just one site that clearly shows both types.

https://www.denniskirk.com/moose/han...119:7249.attrs

DualSport Rider 650
2012 DL650A-L2 ABS ADV
2003 KLR650
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-08-2013, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
I just installed my Moose Handguards- they're pretty straightforward, actually.

However, be careful, as it looks like the bar attachment has changed. Instead of a single curved arm that you can turn both ways in order to get the brake line or clutch cable out of the way, mine came with straight pillars with small holes in them. On the clutch side, I had to drill it out, and run my clutch cable through it in order to make it work. I'm a little concerned about premature wear on the cable, but I think I got it tweaked so it's close enough to in-line to not make a terrible difference. I will keep an eye on it.

On the brake side, the brake line comes stupidly close to the bar attachment, and only by turning the entire master cylinder assembly a few degrees did I get it so everything lines up. Both the levers are angled down a few degrees to get everything to fit, and with the bike straight up, it's fairly comfortable and the handguards are straight forward.

Bar ends went on flawlessly- take the screw loose, pull the assembly out a few CM, then undo the screw and take the weight off. When reassembling, torque it down until it's tight- even though the screw is smaller diameter than the hole in the Moose guard, it's tight enough to not make a difference- no vibes or loose anything. Way easier than fabbing up something to work with the Moose equipment they send or doing without the ends.
I'm not really sure what that slot is for, but it is not for cables to go through. You are going to fray the cable in no time like that, and /or if you drop the bike and the clutch or the guards move a little you may break the cable. I'd sure be relocating that.

You also don't want stuff that tight - the brake banjo bolt as an example. Again, if things shift in a drop, you are going to cause damage - and possibly disabling damage - with things all tight in to each other like that.

Last edited by MeefZah; 12-08-2013 at 04:29 PM.
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