Air Filter change - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 237
Air Filter change

Looks like our new wee will be as big of a PITA to get to the air box as the older version. Have any of you "gone in" yet?
Here is a "procedure" that I found on Pashnit Motorcycle Forum.....

From Page 456, Official Suzuki Maintenance Manual for Suzuki DL Series R2- series 2004 (effective January 5, 2004).

Re-Placement of Air Filtration Device

1. Place motorcycle on centre stand (Refer to page 416 of manual, Frame Maintenance and Chassis Repair, illustration 1a). If centre stand missing, order centre stand, part number SA16667033-211 before proceeding. For installation of centre stand, see Removal of Exhaust System, page 256, step 4, Illustration 14b).
2. Proceed to white vertical atmospherically controlled toolbox at right rear corner of work shop.
3. Remove aluminum 355ml canister labeled "beer" from white vertical toolbox. Follow opening instructions.
4. Remove contents from canister obtained in step 3.
5. Examine motorcycle using standard mechanic visual observation techniques. To ensure adequate air pressure, gently kick rear tire.
6. Return to white vertical toolbox and repeat steps 3-4.
7. Repeat observation as set forth in step 5, and in addition squeeze right front brake lever to assure adequate fluid levels.
8. Proceed to Horizontal steel container marked “MACTools”. Access Phillips screwdriver. Stop at white vertical toolbox and repeat steps 3-4 while returning to motorcycle.
9. Consider removing seat. Contemplate task of removal of two side panels.
10. Return to white vertical toolbox. Repeat steps 3-4.
11. Firmly grasp Phillips screwdriver and while holding rear seat steady, remove from chassis.
12. Execute step 11, by first placing Phillips screwdriver on tool bench. Remove seat properly with both hands. Repair damage to seat upholstery caused by screwdriver using duct tape located in MACTools box.
13. Return to white vertical toolbox and repeat steps 3-4.
14. Firmly grasp Phillips screwdriver. Examine tank and locate decorative plastic center panel on tank.
15. While placing screwdriver on tool bench, remove plastic space connectors with church key. If one is unavailable, roofing hammer claw is reasonable substitute tool for procedure.
16. Drop one connector in manner sufficient to propel same underneath and near wall side of tool bench.
17. Return to white vertical toolbox and repeat steps 3-4.
18. With 10mm socket wrench, remove mounting bolts on side fairing shroud panels on both sides. Holding one bolt loosely in left hand, repeat step 16 only with fairing bolt in left hand instead of plastic connector.
19. Replace side fairing shroud panels remembering at this time it is only necessary to loosen panels to access fuel tank for removal. Search for missing mounting bolt misplaced in step 18.
20. Return to white vertical toolbox and repeat steps 3-4.
21. While holding Phillips screwdriver and 10 mm socket wrench, remove rear tank mounting bolt from frame tab (see illustration 14d).
22. Place Phillips screwdriver on workbench. Remove fuel tank by applying slightly upward and forward motion.
23. Halt fuel tank removal process by gently placing fuel tank back into bracket tab on frame. Proceed to shut off fuel supply at bottom of tank. Remove tank venting and fuel supply hoses from left underside of fuel tank (see illustration 20d, page 678, “Maintenance and Repair of Fuel Supply System”).
24. Properly remove fuel tank as set forth in step 22. Set aside.
25. Return to white vertical toolbox and repeat steps 3-4. If steps 3-4 cannot be repeated at this time, instruct shop assistant to re-supply white vertical toolbox with 355ml. aluminum canisters. Search for tool that will open canisters more efficiently after white vertical toolbox is re-supplied, or order special Suzuki Aluminum Canister Seal Extractor Tool # 456-9998.
26. Before proceeding to steps 23-48, remove battery (for this task refer to page 128, chapter 6: Electrical System Maintenance and Clothing Repair).
27. Proceed to step 28 for instructions on proper cleaning of air filtration element.
29. Replace air filtration element damaged by acetone solution as precautioned against in step 28, with Genuine Suzuki Air Filtration System Element, part number SA16667033-212.
30. Repeat steps 3-4.
31. Replace fuel tank by reversing process recited in step 28.
32. Grasp decorative plastic tank cover. Search for missing plastic mounting hardware and grommets. See step 28 for proper mounting order. Fasten accordingly.
33. Remove air filtration element damaged by acetone solution as precautioned against in step 28. CAUTION: REMOVE AIR FILTRATION ELEMENTS ONLY WITH SPECIAL SUZUKI TOOL (part # 2458888-77-7) SPECIFICALLY PROVIDED FOR THIS PURPOSE, OTHERWISE SEVERE DAMAGE TO EXHAUST VALVE SPRINGS WILL RESULT. For removal procedure refer to paragraph 6.3.2, step 28.
34. Place broken fairing side panels on fairing mounting brackets. Polish away paint stains caused by acetone used while attempting step 28, using Genuine Suzuki Motorcycle Polish, part # 2165559844/4-22.
35. Remove polish, using Genuine Suzuki Motorcycle Polish, part # 2165559844/4-25. Polishing the plastic fairing panels is insufficient procedure to treat acetone induced damage as described in step 28.
36. Prepare plastic fairing panels for painting by using Genuine Official Suzuki Plastic Compatible Sandpaper, part # 561-33-66-987A.
37. Purchase Genuine Official AMA Sanctioned Suzuki Plastic Compatible Motorcycle Spray Paint, part # 2165559844/4-25-B (Ocean Blue).
38. Spray affected plastic fairing panels with paint purchased in step 36. Clean overspray from goggles and re-aim spray canister in proper direction to complete task.
39. Attend to battery cable repair as explained in step 5.
40. Re-attach battery cable to fairing bushings as set out in Chapter 17, Suspension and Transaxle Repair, page 347, illustration 231a-3.
41. Remove sanding and polish residue left remaining on fairing parts while performing steps 34 and 35 before attempting step 37.
42. Repeat steps 3-4. Remove roll of ducting tape from MACTools box.
43. Place sufficient length of ducting tape where appropriate on decorative ABS side panel cracked while executing step 26. Spray side panel with Genuine Official AMA Sanctioned Suzuki Plastic Compatible Motorcycle Spray Paint, part # 2165559844/4-25-B (Ocean Blue), remembering to overspray duct tape to hide color.
44. Repeat steps 3-4 to assure proper drying time.
45. Remove motorcycle from centre stand. Proceed to white vertical toolbox for content inspection.
46. Return to motorcycle. With assistance, retrieve motorcycle from left side prone floor position back to two wheel ready position. Set side stand. Rest motorcycle on side stand as described in Official Suzuki Operator’s Manual for Suzuki DL650 R2- series 2004 Model Year, page 16-2, illustration 3.
47. Inspect for damage. Repair affected body parts using techniques described in steps 5, 26, 34-35, 40-43.
48. Repeat steps 3-4.

2012 DL650 Adventure
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 04:15 PM
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Location: Evanston IL USA
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I've had the Glee down to the frame. I can't say how difficult it is compared to the Wee because I could practically take the old model down blindfolded and the new one was my first time. The owner's manual covers the procedure better than the old one did. Just follow the directions. The big difference is the use of dual lock fasteners on the Glee along with the screws and plastic rivets.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 04:34 PM
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I'd take the bike back and demand a simpler model to work on. Or just have the dealer do it every 15-20 thousand miles.
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 06:05 PM
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I would just keep repeating steps 3 & 4 and forget the rest.


L2 DL650A The Orange Machine
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 06:10 PM
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At least it isn't needed every 1000 miles!

Of course you would drink a lot more beer according to the instructions.

I've had mine out already too. Try to do it on a empty tank and bring lots of beer. :mrgreen:

2012 Suzuki DL650AL2, over 45k miles already!
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 06:47 PM
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I thought the Stroms were pretty darn easy to check/change.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

2015 DL650 XT "Hector"

1997 Honda Valkyrie 1500 custom “Dolores”

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post #7 of 12 Old 07-04-2012, 09:42 PM
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Good humor, op.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-05-2012, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Yesler View Post
Good humor, op.
I thought so too, & that was the primary intent of starting this thread.....humor is a good thing!

2012 DL650 Adventure
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-27-2012, 12:44 PM
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Atlantic Beach FL
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Coming from a KLR this does look a little intimidating...

I messed-around with the body work last night to see how difficult it really is, to my surprise... it's not. There are few actual screws holding the plastic on, and mostly those pins and a variety of hooks, and velcro.

I'll see if I can get some shots and count how many beers it takes to check my Air Filter, Fuel Lines, and such. :mrgreen:

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post #10 of 12 Old 08-27-2012, 01:25 PM
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I searched this site, last year and found a pictoral 'how-to' on taking off the tank for an air filter change. It's pretty easy, so have a beer, crank some tunes and have at it.

One word of caution - the weirdo plastic flexible clippy fasteners that join some of the fairing bits together appear to be quite fragile. You'll see what I mean when you get to a certain area of the fairing.

Still, it's an easy job, if a bit silly, time wise.

"Side effects may include: Mild kidney explosions...Testicular cranberrying... And Rectal hallucinations."
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