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$53 key blank

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15K views 32 replies 12 participants last post by  arty-up  
A
#1 ·
Went to my dealer to get a spare key, $53 for a blank. Even with the # you cannot get a key that is factory cut. If you lose your keys you must buy a new ignition and seat lock. Anyboby know of a cheaper blank? This for the 2012 and has a different blank than earlier models. I think this will be my last Suzuki.
 
#3 ·
Go to a locksmith. The local locksmith here in South Boston was able to find a standard blank for the earlier bike.

Many of them can now duplicate chipped keys as well. Even some of the mobile outfits in Boston can duplicate chipped keys.
 
M
#4 ·
My owner's manual says that the 2012 Wee keys are chipped, so any new keys must also have the transponder chip.

My 2004 Aprilia Scarabeo GT also had chipped keys. If you lose both keys, you have to have the ignition, alarm and ECU replaced, to the tune of several hundred dollars.

AL&K | Motorcycle and Scooter Keys and Key Blanks | Transponder Keys This guy has a stellar reputation in the scooter/motorcycle field as being able to clone transponder keys for a reasonable price.
 
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#5 ·
What ? I considered the stock key to be too big to carry on a key ring, and wanted a spare. I visited the Key kiosk in the parking lot at the mall. He had blanks, standard thin metal, only trouble was the 'shoulder' on the key interfered with inserting it deep enough into the ignition to turn it. He ground the shoulders down enough to make em work. Cost me a whopping $5 each. I carry one in my wallet, with keys for the Givi bags under the seat. If I lose my keyring, the bike key in wallet gets me to the give key under the seat, and I'm back on the road.
 
M
#8 ·
And yet page 2-5 of my 2012 Wee manual states that an immobilizer identification code is programmed into the key and a key made by an ordinary locksmith will not work.

If all keys are lost, the ECM should be replaced. Also on page 2-5.
 
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L
#12 ·
Your 2012 owners manual is certainly different than mine! Page 2-5 is only about coolant. The index lists "Key" as page 3-5 but it says nothing about a code programmed into the key or that the ECM must be replaced it the keys are lost.

It simply states "An identifying number is stamped on the plate. Use this number when making a replacement key."

I have heard/read somewhere that european model 2012 DL 650s have chipped keys and US models do not. Could you somehow been given a european owners manual??

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
 
#10 · (Edited)
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Are you on a 2012 650/GLEE/Gstrom? If so the key is not chipped, correct?

yes, these are for my

2012 650AL2

Big difference in size, the stock key is nice, but too big. Use that blank, they will not go down into the ignition far enough,
but you can grind or file the shoulders off , it will work. With all our vehicles having remote entry fobs, gigantic keys, and such,
to carry them all I'd need a man-bag, and I don't wanna get teased in the parking lot at work. They also fit in a wallet for emergency.
 
#15 ·
North American Glees do not have a chipped key. The rest of the world does.
 
K
#20 ·
No chips installed in N/A delivery bikes as most others have confirmed on this site.

The Ilco X241 Blank is readily available but apparently requires the head to be trimed back a little to allow it to work in the ignition.
Cost should be $3.00 to $5.00 to copy the key, go to a locksmith shop if you want a good copy, the hardware stores are a good option if it's an emergency.
Check this link
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2012/73176-key-blanks.html
 

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#22 · (Edited)
I think you got hosed by the dealer. Mine charged $4/each for the blank like Byron shows in post #7 in this thread. As Greywolf said, USA bikes DO NOT have an immobilizer chip, so the plain old key will start the bike. You could skip the dealer all together and just go to a good hardware store that cuts keys or locksmith and get an Ilco X241 SUZ18 blank.

And page 2-5 of my manual is about coolant as well, not keys, but page 3-5 is about keys in my manual but doesn't mention an immobilzer circuit AT ALL.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Mine would not work in the ignition either, because, the 'shoulder' on the key blank stops the key from going deep enough into the ignition to turn the mechanism. It WILL go deep enough into the seat lock. The seat lock only uses the first inch of the key to unlock. If you look closely at your new key in the ignition, you will notice the key is bumping into the small opening and being kept from getting inserted fully. If you have a grinder, or file, take off enough of the shoulder on the key to allow it to go further into the ignition and chances are, it will work. This picture shows one of mine, after 10 minutes with a file, it is unobstructed by the small opening on the ignition and goes deep enough to turn and start the bike. The other key, the locksmith used a grinder on, to grind down the shoulder of the blank so it would go further into the ignition lock.

Image


Image
 
#27 · (Edited)
Byronw said:
Mine would not work in the ignition either, because, the 'shoulder' on the key blank stops the key from going deep enough into the ignition to turn the mechanism. It WILL go deep enough into the seat lock. The seat lock only uses the first inch of the key to unlock. If you look closely at your new key in the ignition, you will notice the key is bumping into the small opening and being kept from getting inserted fully. If you have a grinder, or file, take off enough of the shoulder on the key to allow it to go further into the ignition and chances are, it will work. This picture shows one of mine, after 10 minutes with a file, it is unobstructed by the small opening on the ignition and goes deep enough to turn and start the bike. The other key, the locksmith used a grinder on, to grind down the shoulder of the blank so it would go further into the ignition lock.
Click to expand...
Good point Byron. I took a picture of an original Suzuki key, an uncut blank and a "modified" cut blank to help illustrate the issue. Note how much longer the shaft is on the original Suzuki key, allowing it to sit further down in the beveled housing around the ignition key hole. The ILCO blank's shaft is just enough shorter so the bottom side of the square top hits the beveled housing and stops it from going in far enough to turn it properly. This had me and the poor guy at ACE Hardware who cut it for free puzzled and we had noted that it would open the seat, then finally noticed the shaft length difference and figured out it was bottoming out against the square key top until we cut the bevel and allowed it to go all the way in and turn the ignition. Personally, I thought my dealer was hosing me at $4 per blank, but I feel a lot better if someone paid $53 for a blank! Shame on that dealer! My local ACE hardware cut mine for free once I had the blanks. If you can't find them locally, I just found them on EBAY for $3.99 shipped, just search for "ILCO SUZ18".

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#25 ·
Andreas go to Glens Keys on state street close to your house.
They'll doyou up right.
They found Givi bag keys that did not have the big ass knob on them.
and when the 36 bag key did not fit the fixed it.
you also need to get rid of those rattling keys and set you a switch blade like this. Wee key, Givi 24, Givi 36 and trunk lock key. all you need is a old leather belt and a leather blind screw rivet, contact cement and a small drill to make the stitch holes.
No ratle and a small package.:thumbup:
Image
 
#29 ·
Good picture, shows it well. My first Suzuki, an LC1500 had a lock on the fuel door on top of the 'tank'. It was a common practice to cut the last inch off of a spare ignition key, epoxy it into a knob, and leave it in the door all the time. It would open the fuel door, but not turn the ignition (it was too short). It made it handy at fuel stops, but could be removed if parked outside overnight.
 
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