You are correct- the emulators are under the springs, on top of the damper rods. You can get them out fairly easily if you bend up a "horizontal fish hook" type of thing to snag the top of the emulator. With the "fish hook" thingy locked into the compression spring, you can then lift the emulator straight up and out- just that easy. If you need further explanation or description of the "fish hook thingy", I can take a picture to share.
If your fork caps do not look stock, but instead, have compression clicker on one fork and rebound clicker on the other, then you have the Traxxion cartridges. In which case, shout out real loud, "Wooo-who!!!" b/c a pair of those things are about $1000.
And if you have Race Tech emulators, let me tell you some pointers. I worked and worked and worked to get mine to perform. The factory calibration is about a country mile away from what you'll need for a nice street ride. Fork oil weight is important. These calibrations work with Mobil 1 syn low temp ATF and .90 springs. You need to add more bleed holes to the emulator valve plate, change to substantially lighter emulator springs (not the fork springs), back off the emulator spring's preload, and then work with the damper rods. The damper rods have a rebound bleed hole which is too large and flows too much fluid for the stiffer .90 springs. You'll want to weld these holes shut and redrill to a smaller size. I think I have the notes somewhere still. Yup, all of these modifications can be a pain, but when you are done, you'll have a pretty nice working damper rod fork. The compression dampening will be well controlled, but the rebound is still a fixed orifice, so rebound will be too fast sometimes,but feel pretty correct other times. We can't make a silk hat out of a sow's ear.
Hope this all helps.
18 1000 XT yellow. Bunch of goodies installed.
2015 Yamaha WR250F- Street plated woods bike
Previous rides- about 25 different bikes, mostly dirtbikes.