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Maintenance Time!

6K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  Webfors 
#1 ·
Thought I was all done, but apparently there's this thing called an Owner's Manual that has a list of regular maintenance items to be followed. I am a bit delinquent on the following:

- Brake fluid change
- Air filter replacement
- Spark plug replacement

Any links, tips and part numbers would be appreciated. I would prefer to take a project management approach, measure twice, cut once so to speak.

I don't see any stickies for these items, so I thought I would check with y'all.
 
#5 ·
Coolant, Mine is 15 years old, is that a problem? the bike runs fine and never gets over 3 bars and doesn't see freezing temps very often. If you don't ride in really dusty conditions, the air filter probably only needs a blast of compressed air.
Brake fluid, if the window in the reservoir is dark, it's probably a good idea. http://kirbysbrakebleeders.ecrater.com/ these make the job simple.

This is the think of the non AR less is more maint. I'm probably wrong though.
 
#8 ·
The spark plug interval is higher than expected.

If I'm going to lift the tank for the brake fluid I might as well pop in a new air filter. I see the Hiflo air filters for $25, which is reasonable. I also like the high pleat count compared to the OEM.
 
#12 ·
Sounds like I can push the plugs out. What’s the iridium part number equivalent?

So air filter and brake fluid swap is warranted.

I noticed the manual states replacing the brake hose at 4 years?! Are we taking all of them? Seems excessive.
 
#13 ·
Just have a dealer cross reference the plugs to iridium. I only ran my standard plugs to around 30,000 miles. As for brake hoses, it depends. If the bike stays indoors or covered, they last a lot longer. Just visually examine the rubber outer coating of the hoses for hair line cracks or dry rot.

You have 2 sets of brakes....what could go wrong:confused:
 
#21 ·
Speed Bleeders ordered!

Air Filter ordered, went with Hiflo HFA3611.

I read the service manual this morning and it mentioned a drain plug on the air filter housing and that you should "drain" as part of regular maintenance. Haven't heard anyone mention that.
 
#22 ·
Speed Bleeders ordered!

Air Filter ordered, went with Hiflo HFA3611.

I read the service manual this morning and it mentioned a drain plug on the air filter housing and that you should "drain" as part of regular maintenance. Haven't heard anyone mention that.
Hey Webfors, not sure what year/model your bike is but if you're ordering a Hiflo air filter you may want to confirm the part number. When I look it up I get part number HFA3614 for the 2008-2016 DL650 ABS models.
 
#24 ·
Ya, Fort Nine is where I got the part number from and it lists the part number you quoted for my sons 2006 and the one I quoted for my 2008. Your number is a white Hiflow and my number is the orange Hiflow. Other than colour and price I'm wondering what the difference could be?
 
#25 · (Edited)
Air filter is not a mileage or age thing it a when its dirty, replace it. At 15,000 miles mine looked new so it was left in.

I've had vehicles with 15+ year old brake fluid and stock brake lines and they worked as well as the day they rolled off the assembly line. I have other brakes that I flush when the reservoir starts to darken and yet other that get changed yearly. Changing it more often than not isn't going to hurt anything but its also fairly common to stretch out the manual stated intervals.

Spark Plugs especially iridum will easily last 100,000 mile plus under normal everyday operating conditions.

Glycol/coolant is good for a long time. In the HVAC once Glycol is introduced into a system it offers life long (30 to 40 year) protection. What needs to be corrected and checked is the PH. If it becomes to base or acidic it will attack and erode metals in the system. Glycol is glycol no matter if its in a HVAC system or an engine. There are two types if glycol either ethylene (alcohol) or propylene (vegetable oil) based. They do exactly the same thing and offer freeze protection as well as raise the boiling point. So unless you've blown a head gasket or the had a boil over and added in water (with an unknown pH) the coolant in the system is most likely good. Actually a pH strip would be the most beneficial tool in determining if the coolant needed changed not mileage or time. As long as the pH is between 6 and 8.5 it is safe for aluminium.

Here is a eye opener on pH. The pH scale is linear and one whole number is a drastic difference. A pH of 9.5 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 8.5 or a ph of 4 is 10 times more acidic than a pH of 5. Each decimal equal 1 times greater.
 
#27 ·
Air filter is not a mileage or age thing it a when its dirty, replace it. At 15,000 miles mine looked new so it was left in.

I've had vehicles with 15+ year old brake fluid and stock brake lines and they worked as well as the day they rolled off the assembly line. I have other brakes that I flush when the reservoir starts to darken and yet other that get changed yearly. Changing it more often than not isn't going to hurt anything but its also fairly common to stretch out the manual stated intervals.

Spark Plugs especially iridum will easily last 100,000 mile plus under normal everyday operating conditions.

Glycol/coolant is good for a long time. In the HVAC once Glycol is introduced into a system it offers life long (30 to 40 year) protection. What needs to be corrected and checked is the PH. If it becomes to base or acidic it will attack and erode metals in the system. Glycol is glycol no matter if its in a HVAC system or an engine. There are two types if glycol either ethylene (alcohol) or propylene (vegetable oil) based. They do exactly the same thing and offer freeze protection as well as raise the boiling point. So unless you've blown a head gasket or the had a boil over and added in water (with an unknown pH) the coolant in the system is most likely good. Actually a pH strip would be the most beneficial tool in determining if the coolant needed changed not mileage or time. As long as the pH is between 6 and 8.5 it is safe for aluminium.

Here is a eye opener on pH. The pH scale is not linear and one whole number is a drastic difference. A pH of 9.5 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 8.5 or a ph of 4 is 10 times more acidic than a pH of 5. Each decimal equal 1 times greater.
Good to know on the brake fluid.... with the speedbleeders it'll be a simple process, that just might prevent a braking/ABS issue. Cheap insurance.

Spark plugs, I'm on board. Crazy to change them at that OEM interval.

I confirmed it's the super long life fluid (blue), so there's no need to touch that unless something abnormal happens, as you stated.

Looks like my maintenance is scaled back to an air filter inspection/replacement and brake fluid replacement before I head to the rally. Haven't pulled the tank off yet... I hear that's fun :grin2:
 
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