Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Not just Vstroms.
You can take the least expensive economy car, and if it needs an ABS module out of warranty you'll be in the same world of hurt as our OP tester here.
It has been my experience that a failed ABS module has different symptoms that what has been posted in this thread.
As previously stated, the ABS module should only come into play during an ABS wheel stop. But I have had many fail causing low brake pedal due to internal accumulator issues. In fact, that was the single most common complaint that brought the vehicle into the shop for a suspected ABS problem. Typically you'd roll to the stop brakes applied...and the pedal would simply drop away. It was an intermittent problem, and the usual diagnostic procedure was to check for ABS codes, completely bleed the system, replace the master cylinder...then as per the manufacturer's techline, replace the ABS module. In all cases where the ABS module was called for after exhausting all other possibilities, the root cause was severely deteriorated brake fluid from lack of maintenance.
But...in this case I recommend loosening the banjo bolt at the rear master cylinder and seeing if the pedal is indeed stuck. Then open the bleeder screw at the rear caliper and seei if there is fluid flow with the brake pedal depressed. In short, make sure the regular hydraulic circuit is operational.
Barring that, in light of the expense involved, I'd get a 2nd opinion from another dealer.
One of the clues I used was to call the manufacturer's techline and ask 2 questions: 1)How many warranty claims were submitted for ABS module failure? and 2) how many ABS modules for that model, year, and VIN# series were sold nation-wide in the last 3 years?
As a dealer we couldnt bypass the ABS module due to liability concerns. As a customer, you can do as you like on your own
Again, get a 2nd opinion.
Last edited by MAZ4ME; 04-22-2019 at 10:56 AM.