Revisiting wiring new SH775 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2012-2016 DL650A 2012-2016 (L2-L6)

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post #1 of 14 Old 03-09-2019, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Revisiting wiring new SH775

Bike is a 2013 Wee ABS Adventure...has had recall done for 'updated' stator already and no pre-existing issues charging, etc. I've done some LED light conversions (except for headlight bulbs and that's a possible option down the road) and am just trying to make sure I'm not maxing things out should I hook up a heated jacket liner and run heated grips, etc.

I tried searching but can't quite come up with the answers I'm looking for...

So I got Jacks's (Roadstercycle) SuperKit with the SH775. He has sorta of generic "one size fits all" wiring instructions and a mention or two of a 5-wire hookup, but I have questions specific to the Wee...

On mine, there are 7 wires coming out of the stock RR...no plug in, just 'hardwired' in there. There are three solid blacks, two black w/ red stripes and two black w/ white strips...all appear to be about the same gauge although the solid balcks might be a shade heavier.

Looking at the service manual (the real Suzuki version), it shows the same combo of wires. However, downstream somewhere in the wiring harness, it appears that there are a couple of plugs and the three black wires change over to three yellow wires which then go on to the stator.

So.....let's see if I've got this right before I go snipping wires!

1. Cut ALL seven wires as close as possible to the stock RR.

2. Splice the three yellow wires from the SH775 plug to the three solid black wires that go to the stator. Order is NOT important...any new yellow to any existing motorcycle black wire that was cut out of the stock RR., etc.

3. "Deadhead" the two black w/red stripes and black w/white stripes with some dead-end crimp connectors (or similar...I'm assuming that somewhere in those four leftover wires, there's at least one existing hot from the battery) and tape those four wires up and out of the way somewhere.

4. Finally, route the new heavier gauge black and red on the second SH775 plug directly the battery and mount the new RR.

Does that sound like a plan????

Thanks in advance!
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Bendmac/Central Oregon

2013 Wee Adv...

EnduroGuardian bash plate/highway pegs/radiator guard;
AdventureTech LLC peg lowering mounts/mirror extenders/fork brace/shifter relocation kit, 2" extended front brake line;
Saddleman Gel-Channel Tech seat;
Barkbuster Storm hand guards;
Oxford heated grips;
Blue Seas 5025 6 circuit fuse block;
12v weatherproof power port;
Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit;
Cree LED lights;
Signal Dynamics voltage monitor;
Kisan signalMinder
PWD Stebel horn kit;
"Home grown" tool tube;
"Sasquatched" (Adventure Power Sports) rear shock
Madstad bracket and 22" screen
Roadstercycle SH775 R/R upgrade
SW-Motech bar risers
Mr. Ed's Moto custom seat
Superbright LED headlight bulbs and other bulbs converted to LED
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-11-2019, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bendmac View Post
...
Looking at the service manual (the real Suzuki version), it shows the same combo of wires. However, downstream somewhere in the wiring harness, it appears that there are a couple of plugs and the three black wires change over to three yellow wires which then go on to the stator.
It's been awhile since I did my 650 but if I remember right there are 2 connectors tucked up behind the frame by the rectifier. Kind of hard to get to. I took off the tank and it was still kind of a pain but doable.

1 connector goes to the stator and has yellow wires. I spliced (soldered) those wires into the new rectifier. Leave enough slack!

The other connector goes into the wiring harness. I just taped over that one so it wouldn't be hanging exposed.

No need to cut the wires on the OEM rectifier unless you're just mad at it!

And now these three remain: faith, hope and love. But the greatest of these is love. 1 Cor 13:13
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-11-2019, 11:32 AM
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Spec has it right. That's how I did my SH775.

L2 DL650 Adventure


bike X miles=smiles
smiles bike=miles
miles smiles=bike.
It's simple math.
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-11-2019, 09:40 PM
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I ended up buying the OEM connectors off two websites. One was Eastern Beaver and the other was CycleTerminal. The connectors you need are the male 4 pin MT-90 and the male 3 pin .250 CNA connectors. I ordered a set of each from both sites. My memory is a little fuzzy but I believe I split the big red\black wires from the rectifier to two pairs in order to feed them into the 4 pin connector. The three yellow wires connected straight to the .250 CNA connector without a hitch.

I found a picture of how I did the Red\Black but not the yellows:
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Last edited by Toadster; 03-11-2019 at 09:51 PM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 03-11-2019, 10:03 PM
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By the way, connecting the RR directly to the battery is a bad idea because if the 30amp fuse ever blows then your bike will suddenly be without power. This is because your RR now connects to the wrong side of the 30 amp fuse.
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-12-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Point taken, Toadster...

Where would you suggest those ground and hot leads get wired to, then?

Bendmac/Central Oregon

2013 Wee Adv...

EnduroGuardian bash plate/highway pegs/radiator guard;
AdventureTech LLC peg lowering mounts/mirror extenders/fork brace/shifter relocation kit, 2" extended front brake line;
Saddleman Gel-Channel Tech seat;
Barkbuster Storm hand guards;
Oxford heated grips;
Blue Seas 5025 6 circuit fuse block;
12v weatherproof power port;
Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit;
Cree LED lights;
Signal Dynamics voltage monitor;
Kisan signalMinder
PWD Stebel horn kit;
"Home grown" tool tube;
"Sasquatched" (Adventure Power Sports) rear shock
Madstad bracket and 22" screen
Roadstercycle SH775 R/R upgrade
SW-Motech bar risers
Mr. Ed's Moto custom seat
Superbright LED headlight bulbs and other bulbs converted to LED
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post #7 of 14 Old 03-12-2019, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bendmac View Post
Point taken, Toadster...

Where would you suggest those ground and hot leads get wired to, then?
Did you notice my second last post? I bought the OEM connectors and attached them to the wires coming from the RR. Going through the OEM wiring harness seems like the safest way to do it, IMO. I'd just hate to be cruising down a busy highway when that 30amp fuse decides to blow.
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post #8 of 14 Old 03-12-2019, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadster View Post
By the way, connecting the RR directly to the battery is a bad idea because if the 30amp fuse ever blows then your bike will suddenly be without power. This is because your RR now connects to the wrong side of the 30 amp fuse.

Wrong side of the fuse? What does that mean?

If the main fuse blows the bike stops regardless how the rectifier/regulator is connected. The Roadster harness has a auto resetting relay BTW.
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-12-2019, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spec View Post
Wrong side of the fuse? What does that mean?

If the main fuse blows the bike stops regardless how the rectifier/regulator is connected. The Roadster harness has a auto resetting relay BTW.
On a stock setup, the RR connects to the main power between the bike and the 30 amp fuse. If you connect the RR to the battery then the RR is now connected between the battery and 30 amp fuse.

The difference is that if you connect the RR directly to the battery and you are riding down the highway and the 30 amp fuse trips due to a short somewhere, your bike will lose all power. No throttle. no ABS, no lights, etc. With the stock setup, the RR can still power the bike if the 30 amp fuse were to blow.

Last edited by Toadster; 03-12-2019 at 10:32 PM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-15-2019, 03:07 AM
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I hope I didn't kill the thread. Most people connect their new RR to their battery but I'm not sure everyone realizes it changes the electrical design of the bike. I was hoping to inform others on what the difference was and what the other option was (connecting through the OEM connectors and where to get them).
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