Best and most complete "valve check/adjustment" procedure!! - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-26-2018, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Best and most complete "valve check/adjustment" procedure!!

Click on the below link for this very well done and complete procedure, pay close attention to EVERYTHING the author states. Good luck, and as always......proceed at your own risk!!!!!


Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Valve Check and Adjustment
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-26-2018, 12:54 PM
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Really good write-up, thanks Big B..

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-26-2018, 01:24 PM
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As a side note I have been thought the "feel" on a feeler gauge should feel like you are peeling a piece of scotch tape off a pane of glass.
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-27-2018, 11:37 AM
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That "feel" thing takes a lot of practice to get consistent. It's good to use the go-no go of the next smaller and larger gauges too. Then you can be a bit more sure of your accuracy.
The quality and shape of your gauges can make a difference too.
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post #5 of 14 Old 02-06-2019, 03:12 PM
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Nice, finally I get some ideas how this is done, I guess with some noted concerns since I never done a bike valve adjustment I'm wondering how that rear tensioner bolt & spring get put back up in such a precarious position. Don't think your fat fingers are gonna make that trip...:>) This is a keeper for sure.

Thank you Big B

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post #6 of 14 Old 02-06-2019, 03:51 PM
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Quote:

To make access much easier I also remove the entire front end 'cockpit' in one lump (not necessary on the earlier Generation 1 models). Once you've got the tank and side panels off there are only two bolts and three electrical connectors securing the cockpit so better to spend another ten minutes removing the whole thing as it really makes the job much easier.

On my k9 650, what is the cockpit?

In that pic, the whole front end seems to be one piece, like an old fairing?
So, on my k9 650, the guages, headlights etc all have to come off?

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post #7 of 14 Old 02-06-2019, 03:54 PM
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My mind skips ahead sometimes. I was wondering what Scotch had to do with valve adjustments and why you would need to peel it.
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-08-2019, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerazziMx14 View Post
As a side note I have been thought the "feel" on a feeler gauge should feel like you are peeling a piece of scotch tape off a pane of glass.
I'm into this project now (might wrap it up tomorrow), and a video I saw, or I read something somewhere, that said the "feel" of a feeler gage should be like that of pulling a sheet of paper from between two glossy magazines. I guess that's similar to pulling tape off glass. Either way, it's not much force.

And that's the key. On my bike, especially on the exhaust valves, I could get a (relatively) wide range of feeler gage blades into the gaps. I don't know if it's possible I was slightly compressing the valve springs with some of the thicker blades that I could push in - or not.

Decided that I'd probably, initially, used too-thick blades, which would go in the gap, but were very, or rather, hard to push in and pull out. Had to re-do the rear cylinder, installing even thinner shims.

Would love to hear more comments about what the right "feel" of the gages is.

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post #9 of 14 Old 02-16-2019, 02:56 PM
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I pretty much wrapped this valve-adjustment job up today.

Rode the bike home shortly after lunch. The valves, exhausts, especially, should be much "looser" now. I moved them roughly 0.010 inches. A bunch. Don't have my records in front of me, but I ended up moving the exhausts a lot.

Bike started instantly and idles and pulls well. I might now be hearing a gentle tic-tic-tic at idle (an indication of exhaust valves on the loose side of nominal?), but it doesn't sound bad, maybe just a tiny bit different.

Rode the bike across a steep mountain road to home. Opened it up on a long, steep upgrade. She pulled hard and felt fine.

Maybe change oil this PM, then lube the chain, gas up and ride a week or two, then maybe bleed the brakes. That should do it for awhile.
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-16-2019, 04:16 PM
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I did an adjustment on my 2014 Wee back in December. The bike only had about 7K miles (bought it with 3K) and the exhausts were at the limit (0.20mm) so I opened them up to the wide limit (0.30mm). The intakes were in the middle of the spec so I left them alone. After the adjustment I could hear the tic-tic-tic at idle and it also seemed to start easier and idle better, not that these were a problem before the adjustment. Seems to pull harder but that could just be my imagination.
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