MAZ -- your response hit the nail on the head. actually, i did not loosen the cap of the rear brake master cylinder because i did not want to take off the side panel and because i saw lots of youtubes, including Lemmy at Revzilla, that skipped that step. i believe extra fluid got pushed up into the master cylinder and the fluid in the cylinder is now probably past the "full" level. i will check that tomorrow. what kind of problem can result from skipping that step? next time i will not skip that step.
after i completed the job, i adjusted the break pedal, not the break light, because the brake light would not go OFF. i went for 20 drive in the neighborhood. everything appeared to be fine, except for the VERY HOT REAR BRAKE ROTOR, whereas the front rotors were just warm. the rear wheel spins freely enough when it is up on the center stand. is it normal for rotors to get HOT?
BikeHigh -- to lube the bore of the brake caliper i would have to remove the piston! Yikes!
mpom & BikeHigh -- i will get up the courage to bleed the brakes (& flush the radiator) at the next 2 year interval. thanks for the tips.
OTHER STUFF -- instead of using blue locklite on the threads for the 2 bolts, the brake pad pin & the pin cover -- i carefully applied permatex anti-seize to the threads only. that way, i could snug things up tightly without worries. comments?
the oem rear brake always felt weak to me. i practically had to stand up and stomp on the pedal to get an ABS reaction. today, i adjusted the brake pedal so that it will travel further down before it fully engages. too soon to say, but i think I am getting a better feel & feedback from the rear brake. maybe the brakes feel better because i cleaned the rotors with brakeleen and installed new brake pads. not sure.
the rear brake replacement taught me how & where to use the brakeleen & silicone, especially after harsh road conditions/chemicals in the winter. after i finished up with the rear brakes today, i sprayed the front calipers & rotors, applied silicone to 2 pins on each of the front calipers, and also applied a bit of silicone to the rubber parts. the rubber boots on the front calipers look very flimsy. i will want to replace them when i do the front brakes.
there was still plenty of life left in the rear brakes. next time, i will wait longer before i change them out. the wear on the brake pads was not perfectly even front to back and side to side. there was a divot on the piston side pad, on the top edge near the pin. maybe a rock hit it there. the rotor smooth, but there is a visible line on the rotor that correlates with the divot.
is this a great sport or what? thanks for all your help stromtroopers.