What parts needed for valve check? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-09-2018, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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What parts needed for valve check?

Apologies if I missed this somewhere but it seems that when valves are discussed procedure is the only thing covered.
I assume that the valve and journal covers have gaskets? Is there a kit with part # for this job?
Or simply use a gasket sealer like Permatex?
I also assume the radiator needs to be dropped - isn't there a specified antifreeze that has to be used?
I also see a lot of folks that just blow out the air filter - I usually replace the durned things - replace or just clean?

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post #2 of 17 Old 05-09-2018, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brojon View Post
Apologies if I missed this somewhere but it seems that when valves are discussed procedure is the only thing covered.
I assume that the valve and journal covers have gaskets? Is there a kit with part # for this job?
Or simply use a gasket sealer like Permatex?
I also assume the radiator needs to be dropped - isn't there a specified antifreeze that has to be used?
I also see a lot of folks that just blow out the air filter - I usually replace the durned things - replace or just clean?

The valve covers have a reusable rubber gasket. You won't need sealer unless you damage the gasket somehow.

How many miles on the bike? I did valves at 30K miles and replaced the spark plugs. Yea they looked good but I figured while I had it apart I would spend the $40 on plugs. Changed the air filter too.

Don't remember what anti-freeze I used just whatever was aluminum safe.

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post #3 of 17 Old 05-09-2018, 11:42 AM
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If you're just doing a valve check, and not an adjustment, it's pretty light on needed replacement parts. A new o-ring for the crank end cap, a crush washer for the indexing inspection cap (both on the left side of the crank case), are called for by the book, and cheap enough. The valve cover gaskets should be reusable with some care during removal, but you'll need some RTV-type sealant when you put it back together whether you reuse or replace the gaskets; no gaskets on the cam holders, but these don't get removed during a check anyway. No need to break into the cooling system, though removing the radiator gives you a bit more working room.

Anything else at this point would be a target of opportunity...oil and filter, new plugs, air filter, coolant, etc.

I did a check and adjustment over the winter; additional parts for an adjustment (for me) where new crush washers for the cam chain tensioner bolts, and ~$5 for shims from Amazon (I was able to use the front exhaust shims on the rear exhaust valves, so I only needed to buy one size). (If you remove the entire cam chain tensioner mechanisms instead of just the end bolts, you'll need to replace those gaskets.) The manual also calls for using a moly/oil mix when reassembling the shims/buckets/cams, but I made do with some engine assembly lube I had on hand. For the adjustment, I did remove the radiator, and replaced the lost fluid with Engine Ice which I also had on hand.
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post #4 of 17 Old 05-09-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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My bike has lost about 6 mpg and I figure it's the air filter - so that's why I'm going in.
With 16K on the bike I figure it wouldn't hurt to check the valves while I have all the junk off.
I figure since the bike is 2 years old and the radiator will give me elbow room (plus I have a screen ready to fit) thus the coolant question.
I'll be reworking some wiring I fished through with a clotheshanger too

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Last edited by Brojon; 05-09-2018 at 03:33 PM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-09-2018, 09:42 PM
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Call me a heretic but I saved the old coolant and put it back in the radiator after service. I did top it off with filtered water.
It was clean and not discolored even after a goodly long many years.
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post #6 of 17 Old 05-09-2018, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Call me a heretic but I saved the old coolant and put it back in the radiator after service. I did top it off with filtered water.
It was clean and not discolored even after a goodly long many years.
lol - Heretic!
Used to be you could buy a bottle of coolant additives which is the only thing that "wears out" in anti-freeze.

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post #7 of 17 Old 05-10-2018, 09:41 AM
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I've read stories about Gold Wings and problems with wrong coolant. Seems the local moto shop should be able to sell a gallon of appropriate coolant without any drama or need to worry about the properties of the contents. I wouldn't expect to be looking at WalMart for coolant on the cheap to save a buck. Especially since the change is done so infrequently.
I just haven't had to do that yet.
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-10-2018, 10:31 AM
 
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I used Honda Premixed coolant. A little pricey but no mixing necessary and aluminum safe.
You must do a lot of off road if the filter is that dirty at 16k miles to lose 6 mpg. I did change mine at 30k miles when I did the valve check and it was still pretty clean even though I had ridden the bike across the US in lots of rain and desert roads. It just might need a valve adjustment! Let us know what you find out?
I just saw you are on the 650, so maybe the air filter gets dirty faster than the DL1000. ???

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post #9 of 17 Old 05-12-2018, 12:29 AM
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Back in the day when I ran water cooled Huskies we used toyota anti-freeze as it had the highest boiling point of 270* mixed 70% AF &30% water. Doing a couple back to back hill climbs you had boiling water blowing on your left leg with plain Anti-freeze.
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-12-2018, 09:07 AM
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Most auto parts stores sell a 'Universal' coolant which is safe for all rad systems....that's what I used.

Make sure the air filter comes with a new rubber gasket, if it does not, remove the one from the oem one that's in there and put it on the new filter.

If you have to adjust the valves, you will need some extensions(at least one long and one short or two long ones) and a swivel socket to get to the rear tension-er. Wrap some electrical tape on the swivel to restrict it's range to about 30% and go in above the swing arm to grab the tension-er bolt and remove it.

The front cylinder on 2012 and up is a pain to get to...just take your time and have plenty of light(a headlamp helps too). Front tension-er can be accessed with extensions without removing the air filter base but it's tight.

Have some bungees or long zip ties ready to keep stuff up and out of the way.
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