Dropping forks to move too-tight cables - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2012-2016 DL650A 2012-2016 (L2-L6)

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post #1 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Dropping forks to move too-tight cables

I need a bit of help. I installed the PowerMadd 45430 Risers on my 2014 DL650. I angled it back 45 degrees, and the ergonomic results appear to be about right. However, my cables are too tight. I ordered a +2" brake cable from Adventuretech, which should solve that one, but I'm concerned about throttle, clutch, and wiring. Reading what others have done, I plan to reroute those cables behind the forks. Here's where I need advice.

I've not removed forks from this bike, so I have no experience. Reading my shop manual, it seems that if I loosen the upper and lower clamps the forks should slide down. But the shop manual says I need to remove the front wheel and the fender. Is that necessary? Can I just loosen the clamps and drop them down about two inches, slide my cables and wiring behind, then bring the forks back into position and tighten it all back up?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Charlie

2012 BMW R1200RT, 2013 Honda PCX150, 2014 Suzuki DL650A
Add-ons: SW Motech Center Stand, Parabellum 24" Windshield, Adventure Tech Over the Dash GPS Mount and Mirror Extenders, Blue Sea Dual USB Port, Shad 49L Topcase, Rigid Industries Dually Spot and Flood LEDs, Whelen 700 LED Brake/Tail Light, Kisan Headlight Modulator, Terry Adcox Double Bucket Custom Seat in all leather, and the following Eastern Beaver products: PC8, H4 Dual Headlight Relay, Brake/Tail/Signal Adapter, Rear Brake Light Switch Connector Relay Switching Adapter.
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post #2 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 12:35 PM
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You can, but it's going to be difficult dealing with the weight of the wheel. A better option might be to unplug the wires to reroute them without moving the fork.
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post #3 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 12:51 PM
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I put 2" Rox Risers and different bars on my 2014 Wee and I was able to put the controls and everything though the space between the neck and the fork without removing the upper tree or forks. I did also put on the longer brake hose.
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post #4 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 02:20 PM
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If you must change the routing, 2 ways how to try doing it:

1. Take the top part of the triple tree off: Unbolt the handlebar, loosen the top pinch bolts, remove the center cap-nut, lift off the top triple. Reroute, reverse the other steps.
2. Try to do one side at a time. Requires you to compress the fork leg. No load on the front wheel, loosen the pinch bolts on one side. Push the fork leg down, reroute, reverse the other steps.

An alternative may be to just drop the front 1/2" - 3/4" by sliding both fork legs up so they stick out of the clamp. May give you enough play in your cables.

Whatever you do check very carefully that there is no binding, pinching or stretching of cables, hoses and wires. Especially make sure your throttle works perfectly!

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post #5 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post

2. Try to do one side at a time. Requires you to compress the fork leg. No load on the front wheel, loosen the pinch bolts on one side. Push the fork leg down, reroute, reverse the other steps.

Whatever you do check very carefully that there is no binding, pinching or stretching of cables, hoses and wires. Especially make sure your throttle works perfectly!
Thank you blaustrom. One side at a time. I hadn't considered that. Right now I have it on the center stand and a hydraulic jack under the engine to have a controlled lift of the front wheel off the ground. So, could I loosen the clamps on one side, lift the front end off the ground, then push down on the top of the fork on the loosened side, slide the cables under, let the jack back down to bring the fork back in position, tighten the clamps and the repeat on the other side?

It's the binding,and stretching that I am trying to remedy.

Charlie

2012 BMW R1200RT, 2013 Honda PCX150, 2014 Suzuki DL650A
Add-ons: SW Motech Center Stand, Parabellum 24" Windshield, Adventure Tech Over the Dash GPS Mount and Mirror Extenders, Blue Sea Dual USB Port, Shad 49L Topcase, Rigid Industries Dually Spot and Flood LEDs, Whelen 700 LED Brake/Tail Light, Kisan Headlight Modulator, Terry Adcox Double Bucket Custom Seat in all leather, and the following Eastern Beaver products: PC8, H4 Dual Headlight Relay, Brake/Tail/Signal Adapter, Rear Brake Light Switch Connector Relay Switching Adapter.
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post #6 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 03:41 PM
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Try it, not sure you have enough grip to push against the spring. Just have the front wheel off the ground. The fork leg should come up on it's own or with little help since the spring is compressed. No need to lower the bike I think.

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post #7 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawfcj View Post
So, could I loosen the clamps on one side, lift the front end off the ground, then push down on the top of the fork on the loosened side, slide the cables under, let the jack back down to bring the fork back in position, tighten the clamps and the repeat on the other side?
Good luck with that. Even if you had enough grip and strength the compress the fork spring by gripping the fork tube with both hands, you would then have no 3rd hand to move wires/cables.
Have you ever compressed a fork spring to replace the fork cap? That is demanding enough in itself. And you expect to compress that spring a further 4" by hand? I say no way will this work.
I would go back to re-routing wires and cables.
Even removing the wheel and front guard, and then sliding each fork tube down alternately has the opportunity to get complicated. Your brake line is already fixed, so just loosen the bars and slide them sideways, then slide the loosened but still assembled throttle assembly off the end of the bars and reroute it. Disconnect the clutch. What else do you need to move?

And I would be VERY careful routing any cables between fork tube and steering head.
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post #8 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Dropping the forks did not work. Brockie was right, "good luck with that!" I was unable to compress the fork, so put that back together and will now try the first choice blaustrom suggested:

Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post

1. Take the top part of the triple tree off: Unbolt the handlebar, loosen the top pinch bolts, remove the center cap-nut, lift off the top triple. Reroute, reverse the other steps.
I measured the stem cap nut to be 32mm. Needless to say I will need to order a socket that large. So, I'll wait for Amazon to bring me a small box with an expensive socket next week.

Thanks for all the great help folks.

Charlie

2012 BMW R1200RT, 2013 Honda PCX150, 2014 Suzuki DL650A
Add-ons: SW Motech Center Stand, Parabellum 24" Windshield, Adventure Tech Over the Dash GPS Mount and Mirror Extenders, Blue Sea Dual USB Port, Shad 49L Topcase, Rigid Industries Dually Spot and Flood LEDs, Whelen 700 LED Brake/Tail Light, Kisan Headlight Modulator, Terry Adcox Double Bucket Custom Seat in all leather, and the following Eastern Beaver products: PC8, H4 Dual Headlight Relay, Brake/Tail/Signal Adapter, Rear Brake Light Switch Connector Relay Switching Adapter.
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post #9 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 06:44 PM
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How many miles are on the bike? Whilst you have the top triple tree off you may as well check the steering head bearings to see if they need a little tightening.

https://blacklabadventures.com/2012/...ement-upgrade/

Its for the older model but still applies. You need to make or buy the steering stem nut tool. Make at least 3 teeth. Instead of the pipe wrench just cross drill the pipe and use a large screwdriver or rod. The nuts are normally not very tight. Caution they are not steel and easily butchered, so make sure the tool fits reasonably well.


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post #10 of 34 Old 02-17-2018, 07:52 PM
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So did you try taking the controls apart and pushing them through? Like I said no tree removal.

2014 650 Strom

Last edited by Highwayman2016; 02-17-2018 at 07:57 PM.
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