Time for a New Chain - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2012-2016 DL650A 2012-2016 (L2-L6)

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post #1 of 49 Old 03-24-2015, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Time for a New Chain

30,000 miles of neglect has finally taken its toll on my original chain.

I'd like to know if there is any reason to buy a DID x ring or EK x ring chain and sprocket set over the OEM Suzuki set. The DID is $20 cheaper, the EK the same price.

I have not read here about anyone getting as many miles out the aftermarket ones than from the OEM one. Input requested.

Mitch
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post #2 of 49 Old 03-24-2015, 12:51 PM
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contact BLair from SV Racing here on the forum, hes the man when it comes to chains and sprockets, he will set you up on the right combo and gearing combo

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post #3 of 49 Old 03-24-2015, 02:15 PM
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I had the dealer put some 100 dollar chain on the bike and it didn't last long. I put a DID chain on 24.5K miles ago and it's still fine.
Using a vendor from the forum is a good idea.
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post #4 of 49 Old 03-24-2015, 06:57 PM
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I just put a DID X-Ring on mine, and one thing I noticed when I had them both side-by-side to measure, is that the DID seemed to have substantially thicker links. I don't know for certain if they were or it was just the placebo effect: this must be a better chain than stock so therefore it "looks" tougher... hmm, maybe I'll get out my measurer and find out for sure... got me wondering now.
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post #5 of 49 Old 03-25-2015, 09:57 PM
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The x-rings will have less resistance than the o ring, that's the main benefit of them.
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post #6 of 49 Old 03-26-2015, 03:58 PM
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Please explain for this new to chain drive rider what all of this means... I've had my 2012 DL650 for about 3 years / 22,000 miles now, my chain looks OK but what are the signs of needing replacement? I've been using Chain Saver every 300-400 miles, more often if riding in wet weather.

From an everyday practical perspective, my main desire in getting a new chain would be to have one link be a different color than the rest of the chain, so I can tell while lubing it when I've reached the point I started at.

DID chain?
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post #7 of 49 Old 03-26-2015, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robardin View Post
<small snip>
From an everyday practical perspective, my main desire in getting a new chain would be to have one link be a different color than the rest of the chain, so I can tell while lubing it when I've reached the point I started at.

DID chain?

Hey Robardin:

I am in no way a chain expert[decades of shaft drives] (my OEM only has about 4K on it) but what I did to help in lubing was to take an old bottle of White Out and put it the garage near all the "chain stuff".

I placed a small dab on one of the outer links and it makes it so easy to tell where you started and stopped lubing. I've only had to replace it once in a year-just be sure to 'ease up' on that particular link when you are brushing/toweling off the grunge. :-)

YMMV but it works for me.

Cheers!

Pat

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post #8 of 49 Old 03-26-2015, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robardin View Post
Please explain for this new to chain drive rider what all of this means... I've had my 2012 DL650 for about 3 years / 22,000 miles now, my chain looks OK but what are the signs of needing replacement? I've been using Chain Saver every 300-400 miles, more often if riding in wet weather.

...
DID chain?
DID is a brand name. There are different chains in the same chain size (eg 525) that vary in tensile strength and features. The terms X-ring, O-ring, Z-ring refer to the sealing rubbers that hold grease inside the chain on the pins. O-rings have been around the longest. They are made of synthetic rubber and are vulnerable to harsh scrubbing and solvents, exactly which solvents will vary depending on the exact rubber used.

How can you tell the chain is kaput? There's several things to watch out for. If you can grab a link when it's on the rear sprocket and pull it clear of the teeth, it's stuffed. If there are spots on the chain where it stays kinked as it travels along it's run, it's stuffed. If there's red rust coming out from under the rollers, it's stuffed. If you run out of adjustment on the rear axle, the chain is stuffed. If the rollers have turned blue from running too hot (ie severe lack of lubrication) it's stuffed. If the chain is stuffed you need to look very critically at the sprockets. They might be ok but odds are they're also stuffed. It's better to change them as a set (both sprockets and the chain). Worn sprockets will wear out a chain faster.

Some guys advocate cleaning the chain every time they lube it, others say never clean it. Read up and make up your own mind.

"I've recently come to the realization that true happiness can often be found at the bottom of an empty gas tank" - Prime
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post #9 of 49 Old 03-26-2015, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p_rod View Post
Hey Robardin:

I am in no way a chain expert[decades of shaft drives] (my OEM only has about 4K on it) but what I did to help in lubing was to take an old bottle of White Out and put it the garage near all the "chain stuff".

Pat
That's a great idea, going to do that if I can find the white out. I've got some white car touch-up paint that might work if the link was clean. I figured out it takes 2-1/2 revolutions of the wheel so I just watch the valve stem (usually go close to three just to be sure).

-Gary
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post #10 of 49 Old 03-26-2015, 06:39 PM
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The service manual should have a wear length specification. For my Triumph Sprint it is the maximum acceptable length between a defined number of links. I just made a stick with two marks on it at the maximum allowable length. Takes a couple of seconds to pull the chain bottom snug and compare it to the stick.
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