Wiring USB + 12v power + voltmeter - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-28-2015, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring USB + 12v power + voltmeter

Not the most confident with electrical stuff so I have to ask about installing some items I just ordered.

I ordered a USB power outlet as well as a 12v outlet. Can I splice both and attach to the OEM accessory plug? I also ordered the Eastern Beaver wiring kit, btw. They will power an iPhone and a GPS.

Also, to what do I hook up the little digital voltmeter I ordered?
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-28-2015, 04:47 PM
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Cool wiring 12V stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by T.O.YYZ View Post
Not the most confident with electrical stuff so I have to ask about installing some items I just ordered.

I ordered a USB power outlet as well as a 12v outlet. Can I splice both and attach to the OEM accessory plug? I also ordered the Eastern Beaver wiring kit, btw. They will power an iPhone and a GPS.
Assuming your "USB power outlet" is supposed to be powered by a 12V source: Yes, they can be driven in parallel by the OEM accessory plug.

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Originally Posted by T.O.YYZ View Post
Also, to what do I hook up the little digital voltmeter I ordered?
If you will be content to see just battery voltage trends, your voltmeter can also be paralleled at the OEM accessory plug. Because of where that connector joins the bike wiring, there are some voltage drops, arising from headlight current, which will make the meter reading a little lower than what could be observed at the battery. But for noticing declining charge state (such as when the magneto stator fails), that drop will not matter. But if you are wanting to tell where the battery is on its voltage versus charge curve, you may want a connection not shared with significant loads.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-28-2015, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trepidator View Post
Assuming your "USB power outlet" is supposed to be powered by a 12V source: Yes, they can be driven in parallel by the OEM accessory plug.


If you will be content to see just battery voltage trends, your voltmeter can also be paralleled at the OEM accessory plug. Because of where that connector joins the bike wiring, there are some voltage drops, arising from headlight current, which will make the meter reading a little lower than what could be observed at the battery. But for noticing declining charge state (such as when the magneto stator fails), that drop will not matter. But if you are wanting to tell where the battery is on its voltage versus charge curve, you may want a connection not shared with significant loads.
Yes. If it says 12 most of the time, let's say, then I can at least tell if there is anything wrong with the charging system when it changes from 12. Does that make sense?

Having read a few posts about failed stators, that was my main concern - a sudden drop or rise in voltage. Thanks for your reply - very helpful.

Also, it is a 12V-5V outlet. That's really great - should be pretty straightforward then, I guess. Just have to try heat shrinking for the first time which should be fun.

2014 DL650
Previously rode:
'97 KLR 650
'86 Suzi GS 1150EF
'83 Yamaha Maxim 650

YY Zed

Last edited by T.O.YYZ; 01-28-2015 at 05:06 PM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-28-2015, 06:45 PM
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Post trend detection

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Originally Posted by T.O.YYZ View Post
Yes. If it says 12 most of the time, let's say, then I can at least tell if there is anything wrong with the charging system when it changes from 12. Does that make sense?

Having read a few posts about failed stators, that was my main concern - a sudden drop or rise in voltage. Thanks for your reply - very helpful.
What you need to be looking for is an adverse change in the trend rather than a sudden drop (or sudden rise). If the indicated voltage bounces around between (say) 12.3 - 12.5 Volts, but then starts bouncing between 12.1 - 12.3 and then further declines to 11.9 - 12.1, you will know that you have either been idling for a long while or your generator is not able to keep the battery at a steady charge level at cruising RPM.

Quote:
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Also, it is a 12V-5V outlet. That's really great - should be pretty straightforward then, I guess. Just have to try heat shrinking for the first time which should be fun.
Be sure to use either a well-crimped splice or solder the spliced wires together. With wires that are subject to vibration and large temperature swings, you want to avoid having contacting surfaces which oxidize over time. Such will work for awhile, then get flaky.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-28-2015, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trepidator View Post
What you need to be looking for is an adverse change in the trend rather than a sudden drop (or sudden rise). If the indicated voltage bounces around between (say) 12.3 - 12.5 Volts, but then starts bouncing between 12.1 - 12.3 and then further declines to 11.9 - 12.1, you will know that you have either been idling for a long while or your generator is not able to keep the battery at a steady charge level at cruising RPM.



Be sure to use either a well-crimped splice or solder the spliced wires together. With wires that are subject to vibration and large temperature swings, you want to avoid having contacting surfaces which oxidize over time. Such will work for awhile, then get flaky.
That makes perfect sense - thanks again!

2014 DL650
Previously rode:
'97 KLR 650
'86 Suzi GS 1150EF
'83 Yamaha Maxim 650

YY Zed
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-28-2015, 10:47 PM
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I'm powering my 12v accessory port off the heated grip connector, and the voltmeter off the accessory connector. But, if you didn't order both leads together (EB has a minimum order and fairly high S&H if I recall), you can just do as Trepidator suggested. What you can do is check the voltage directly at the battery using a VOM under various electrical loads and RPMs for comparison to the reduced reading on the voltmeter.

-Gary
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-29-2015, 07:03 AM
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If you want avoid the voltage drop to your new voltmeter and have an accurate reading, you can run a separate fused wire direct from the battery. It will stay on when the bike is off unless you put in a toggle on/off switch. If the voltmeter is LCD it will draw almost nothing and won't run your battery down in any reasonable amount of time and you don't even need the switch. If it's LED, it will take at least a couple weeks to discharge the battery so even if you forget to switch it off for a day or two it won't be a problem. Running it off a switched wire is fine but will read consistently low - as stated in the previous replys.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-29-2015, 01:39 PM
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Here's what I did, but you can always do better.
https://www.stromtrooper.com/maintena...-2012-adv.html

[URL=https://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/dl650a_v-strom_abs_adventure/2012/Voigtlander912/302097][IMG]https://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302097.png[/IMG][/URL]
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-29-2015, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what I did, but you can always do better.
https://www.stromtrooper.com/maintena...-2012-adv.html
That's some fine farkling. I ordered round sockets and voltmeter so I will be installing them on the upper fairing plastic with drilled holes.

I have thought about ordering a shelf, like the nice one you made there, but I was wondering about wire routing. If my GPS is mounted above the instrument cluster (via SW Motech GPS holder), isn't the fairing a better spot for the 12v socket? Thoughts? You've actually been using your setup so your feedback would be appreciated.

2014 DL650
Previously rode:
'97 KLR 650
'86 Suzi GS 1150EF
'83 Yamaha Maxim 650

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-29-2015, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Dub View Post
I'm powering my 12v accessory port off the heated grip connector, and the voltmeter off the accessory connector. But, if you didn't order both leads together (EB has a minimum order and fairly high S&H if I recall), you can just do as Trepidator suggested. What you can do is check the voltage directly at the battery using a VOM under various electrical loads and RPMs for comparison to the reduced reading on the voltmeter.
I did, in fact, order both leads but I am planning to get heated grips. Is the heated grip wiring switched as well?

2014 DL650
Previously rode:
'97 KLR 650
'86 Suzi GS 1150EF
'83 Yamaha Maxim 650

YY Zed
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