Expansion joints.... - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 22 Old 05-14-2014, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Expansion joints....

Driving my 2012 650 home, the other day, down I-88 I was reminded of the thumping in my butt from the expansion joints. I am interested in your insight(s) on how your new 1000's handle this issue?
I really need to, at 67, find a bike that "soaks up" some of the nasty bumps. Having only a "skin of bone" ass I am thinking about the new Tenere with electronic suspension. I sat on one, at the New York bike show. They are LARGE in comparison to the new 1000.
Let me know about the bumps and potholes.

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post #2 of 22 Old 05-14-2014, 09:39 AM
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My old KLR would soak up anything. But it had long travel and super soft suspension. Maybe try lessening the preload and damping.
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post #3 of 22 Old 05-14-2014, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpete64 View Post
Driving my 2012 650 home, the other day, down I-88 I was reminded of the thumping in my butt from the expansion joints. I am interested in your insight(s) on how your new 1000's handle this issue?
I really need to, at 67, find a bike that "soaks up" some of the nasty bumps. Having only a "skin of bone" ass I am thinking about the new Tenere with electronic suspension. I sat on one, at the New York bike show. They are LARGE in comparison to the new 1000.
Let me know about the bumps and potholes.
Mr. Pete,
I too have felt the wrath of poor highway blacktop. It takes many forms - expansion joints, frost heaves, potholes, cracks etc... The new 1000 does a fair job of cushioning the rider. There are adjustments to both forks which may be helpful. I also sat on the S10, and for me, it was just too big and too heavy. The beauty of the Vee2 in my humble opinion, is the fact that it is only 500 pounds and easy to maneuver, especially when avoidance is necessary. I don't believe any one bike is going to be good for all of a rider's concerns.
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post #4 of 22 Old 05-14-2014, 10:10 AM
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Changing the preload will not affect ride quality unless the suspension is topping or bottoming out. The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup

Expansion joints are about compression damping and that is not adjustable, only rebound damping is adjustable. A cartridge emulator or custom cartridge replacement on the forks and a high quality after market shock can help. The problem though is motorcycles have a much higher unsprung weight to sprung weight ratio than cars. When the road gets suddenly a little higher on an uneven expansion joint, the rider is going to feel it.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #5 of 22 Old 05-14-2014, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
"soaks up" some of the nasty bumps
1--Tire inflation pressure at the swingarm sticker recommended pressure, 33F/36R
2--Upgrade the seat, including a gel pad (many brands; here's one: https://onlygel.com/index.php/motorc...seat-pads.html) Or an aftermarket seat with a gel insert. Also Grip Puppies for your hands
3--Springs that suit your loaded riding weight (but on the light side of the range)
4--Set the sag front & rear to 40 mm (critical if you're bottoming out, important for all riding)
5--Upgrade the damping. Drop in Damper Cartridge (DDC)

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Last edited by PTRider; 05-14-2014 at 11:55 AM.
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post #6 of 22 Old 05-15-2014, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!!!!

I appreciate all of you taking the time to respond to my question.

Mr. Pete----->
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post #7 of 22 Old 05-15-2014, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Changing the preload will not affect ride quality unless the suspension is topping or bottoming out. The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup

Expansion joints are about compression damping and that is not adjustable, only rebound damping is adjustable. A cartridge emulator or custom cartridge replacement on the forks and a high quality after market shock can help. The problem though is motorcycles have a much higher unsprung weight to sprung weight ratio than cars. When the road gets suddenly a little higher on an uneven expansion joint, the rider is going to feel it.

This information isn't exactly true.

Preload is important... With a progressively rising rate rear suspension such as the DL650, you want to ride in the sweet spot of the travel. If you ride too low in the travel, you will ride at a height where the suspension is getting into the increasingly progression and it will feel stiff because the same impact will not move the suspension as much.

The rebound dampening screw also affects dampening to a certain degree. It is important to understand what the rebound adjust actually does inside the shock. The rebound adjuster sets the bleed bypass around the shock piston. It is not directional. The rebound adjuster on the DL650 shock is like other rebound adjusters on most off road bikes.

Bottom line- Go ahead and try some different adjustments. By doing so, you're not going to break anything and you might find some improvement. But, just don't expect a lot of improvement though, because the stock DL650 suspension is only so good.

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post #8 of 22 Old 05-15-2014, 11:12 AM
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Joe is correct on both his points, though I think Greywolf was meaning that adjusting the preload does not repeat "DOES NOT" make your spring stiffer or softer, which is absolutely correct and an often mis-understood point... Good point too about the ratio of sprung to unsprung weight, this is why cruisers get away with cheaper basic suspension and dainty bikes like this one get lots of suspension adjustment threads on Internet forums....

As BJ said, adjusting the position of the rising rate suspension by raising the preload will make the rear suspension more compliant. This very important if carrying loads that lower the back end from a more typical static sag, or your ride will feel harsh. Over a year of ownership and solo riding I've found that I still like the rear end on my 2013 raised from stock position for that reason, and also the slightly quicker turn in.... I helped a friend with a Wee sort this issue a little while back, the preload had been lowered by previous owner to sort an "inseam issue"... when I tried it the ride compliance was awful compared to mine and while not sure if the actual shock was bottoming it seemed to be finding something in the rear suspension that acted as a travel stop. This was probably to prevent rear wheel contact with underside of seat, due to limited remaining travel. Adjustment up brought big improvement.

Same same the damping. If rebound damping is lacking, once you are a few milliseconds past the "bump" all that energy that your lovely, well designed suspension has absorbed will be fired back into your derrière, almost indistinguishable from the initial bump itself... Again, I have found over a year or so of breaking in the rear shock that rebound dampening has fallen off, requiring me to periodically tweak up the adjusting screw an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn at a time to maintain the same feel...

My $0.02

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Last edited by Zone5; 05-15-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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post #9 of 22 Old 05-15-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazooka Joe View Post
This information isn't exactly true.

Preload is important... With a progressively rising rate rear suspension such as the DL650, you want to ride in the sweet spot of the travel. If you ride too low in the travel, you will ride at a height where the suspension is getting into the increasingly progression and it will feel stiff because the same impact will not move the suspension as much.
Yes it is. You have a fundamental misconception of how suspension works. Changing preload within its proper range does not compress the spring any more or less. it raises or lowers the bike. The only time adding preload compresses the spring more is if the suspension is topped out beforehand. Believe me, you don't want to ride a bike set up with the suspension topped out.

Think of the bike's suspension like a big book sitting on a spring. If you add preload by putting a practically weightless board under the spring or under the book, the spring does not compress any more. The book is raised higher.

Preload is used only to set the sag. The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #10 of 22 Old 05-15-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post

Preload is used only to set the sag. The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup

Correct. And sag, on a rising rate suspension linkage, dictates the force fed to the spring...


"Between two evils, I'll always take the one I've never tried before..."

Shiro Nakama #069

Suzuki: RF900 x 2, DRZ400E, DL650L2 ABS(sold), SV650SK9 ABS
Honda: CB750F2, VFR750/RC36 x 2, VTR1000 x 2
Yamaha: GTMX80, MX125, Virago250, Virago1100
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