Jerky snatchy throttle - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Jerky snatchy throttle

Hi all

Been lurching on here for some time as I'd been looking at the new 650, but my dads beat me to it.

Anywho he's got a problem with a snatching throttle when hes trying to get on/off the throttle or on low part throttle. he's just got the bike and got a new chain and sprocket, all tensioned properly. he thinks it feels like a throttle cable jamming feeling. he's already took it to the local mechanic but he can't find anything

Is there anything he should be looking out for or you guys know is a common problem?

thanks

max
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post #2 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 03:50 PM
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Mine (2012) is the same, and all others I know. Firstly, it's not supposed to be ridden bellow 3000 rpm. Secondly, it's just the question of getting used to it, as, for example, sometimes I ride downhill on 3500 rpm and need just a little touch of the the throttle to keep the speed and then I feel it jerky. Nothing to worry about.
But the most important, don't ride bellow 3000 rpm. This bike is just not made for lower rpm.

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post #3 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 04:46 PM
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Install a Throttle Tamer.

No need to keep it above 3000 RPM. This will make it fine at all RPMs. I purchased my Glee used and the previous Owner had installed one. I have one on my ST1300 and I can go on-off throttle in corners w/ no jerkiness. Before that I had to be careful, riding 2-up in corners, as it was very jerky.

From the manufactures website:

The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.

Current: '12 Dl650, '06 ST1300, '89 Transalp, '84 XL350R, '07 TRX350TM,
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post #4 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 04:52 PM
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Make sure you don't have too much play in the cable. that will help a little but other than that there's no fix. I find it annoying too but I've gotten used to it. The throttle is like a light switch below 25mph, either on or off, accelerating or decelerating, almost impossible to hold a steady speed. Sometimes I just work the clutch. There should be a softer transition in the fuel mapping.
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post #5 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DownOnTheFarm View Post
Install a Throttle Tamer.

No need to keep it above 3000 RPM. This will make it fine at all RPMs. I purchased my Glee used and the previous Owner had installed one. I have one on my ST1300 and I can go on-off throttle in corners w/ no jerkiness. Before that I had to be careful, riding 2-up in corners, as it was very jerky.

From the manufactures website:

The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.
I guess there is a fix after all.
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post #6 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 05:03 PM
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Still, 2500-3000rpm is the minimum for smooth operation, depending on how well adjusted the TPS and TBS are. Below that and there aren't enough power strokes and horsepower to handle the load smoothly. Feather the clutch or downshift to keep the revs up.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #7 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 05:12 PM
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Post throttle accommodation

I had the same issue with my DL-650A when I got it in Fall 2013. At first, I dealt with it by putting a couple fingers on the brake lever when starting out, something that is often prudent in urban riding anyway. Now, I find that it is enough to keep the wrist angle back (more level), so as to reduce the positive feedback between acceleration force and throttle opening.

At this point, I would not bother with Throttle Tamer, even if it was free.
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post #8 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 08:22 PM
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I've found you just have to be very gentle with throttle input changes, I'm still getting used to it, but getting better. I wonder if foam grip covers would help with that problem?

-Gary
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post #9 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 09:10 PM
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I havent noticed this at all. Probably will now though. Dangit.

2013 DL650
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post #10 of 20 Old 04-28-2014, 09:17 PM
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I also do the two fingers on the brake thing in corners...

another trick is to just slip the clutch a little if you know you are going to be "lugging it" around a corner.

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