Winter upgrades & maintenance - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Winter upgrades & maintenance

This winter I'd like to improve ergonomics on our 2012 Wees by adding peg lowering kits and bar risers. I'd also like to add headlight relays and address maintenance including brake fluid and air filters. Hopefully you guys can offer advice that helps me to coordinate all this to minimize the work. We've got 10,000 miles on each bike. So here are some questions:

1. Which bar risers can be added without extending brake lines? I've seen posts here that suggest Rox 2" risers do need it and other posts saying they do not. How about throttle cables and other controls? The Tusk 15 mm and 30 mm are much cheaper and less likely to affect the brake line (beyond maybe removing it from the clip). And if a longer line is best, clearly that should be done with the 2 year brake fluid change.

2. Would raising the forks without lowering the rear suspension be a good idea? The wife and I have 34" inseams so there's no need for standover clearance, but some have suggested it's better for both handling and aerodynamics. Would it become an issue with lowered pegs? Would it help with the above brake line question?

3. Is a fuel tank lift needed to install headlight relays or can the wiring be snaked around the left side? I filled both bikes with non-ethanol gas, so would need to burn some off if lighter tanks are needed for removal.

4. Suzuki says to replace air filters at 11,000 miles. We ride about 5,000 miles per year but don't ride in dusty conditions, so it's tempting to just wait to replace them with the valve checks at 14,500 or so. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your advice. The folks on this forum are an incredible resource.

Dave
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 11:02 AM
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Try rotating the handlebars back a notch first. If you don't like that, then consider risers or bar backs.

Raising the forks can be important on Wees and Vees to offset aerodynamic lift but the Glee doesn't have the ramped plastic under the headlights that causes lift and has a longer shock that already provides more of a nose down attitude. That being said, raising the forks is free, relatively easy and totally reversible so you can try it and see how you like it.

Relays have been added without removing the tank but I like the easier access for a neater job. I've also removed full tanks with no trouble and I'm a 68 year old desk jockey. YMMV.

I would wait until valve clearance inspection time to do the air filter and the headlight relays if I were you.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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post #3 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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The main ergo upgrade we're considering is RDL seats. We returned our Sargents after finding we get the same "glute cramps" after a couple of hours as we did with the factory seats. It's a bunch of money for two but we're hoping it's significantly better than stock. You've ridden both GW. Your thoughts?

So if we get the RDL seats, we need to get the pegs lowered before taking pics and shipping the seats off, and do it soon to beat the spring rush. Bar risers are a possible minor tweak at best. I've already fine tuned the factory setup and both of us are reasonably comfortable with the upper body as is. However, my wife's arms are about an inch shorter so she's a bit more stretched forward. We planned to get seats made before any handlebar changes, assuming they'll be minor if we do anything at all. Maybe just a $25 Tusk 15 mm block under hers? With all that in mind GW, do you suppose we're OK buying the RDL seats before any final bar tweaks?

I was surprised (and relieved) to hear you suggest waiting for the headlight relays until valve clearance checks. I'd been concerned that the risk of switch damage might be significant, but will happily follow your advice GW. What's another year and 5,000 miles?

Good to know the tank lift isn't a problem with full tanks. I'll defer all that until next fall unless it's a long and boring winter.
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 11:37 AM
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To continue in this thread, why would you need / install headlight relays? I never seen the issue, is there one? Is there going to be one?
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 12:38 PM
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As far as headlight problems go, https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...blems-not.html

The Russell day long is far and away more comfortable than the Sargent.



Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 08:55 PM
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I changed my air filter at 15,000 miles when I did the valve check. It was quite clean, likely good for another 10,000 miles...only a couple bugs found there way in as well...I don't ride in dusty conditions often....

2012 DL650/EXP (fox orange)
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-29-2013, 10:14 PM
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I have not found a need to raise the forks on mine. The peg lowering kit is very nice and I even went to a tall seat and now I get a nice relaxed knee position. I also have about a 34" inseam. I have even though of dropping my pegs a tad (I have pivot pegs and you can set them to a lower height.)

2014 BMW F800gs

2011 TW200

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post #8 of 9 Old 11-30-2013, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkayak1 View Post
2. Would raising the forks...help with the above brake line question?
Dave
No. The end points of the master brake line hose are the master cylinder and the manifold below the tank, with an intermediate clip at the bottom right of the steering head. The reference point for all these locations is the frame (for master cylinder via the handlebars), so, raising the fork tubes does not affect the length required for the master brake hose.

From the variety of experiences reported with regard to whether brake line extensions were needed or not when the bars were raised, it seems there are a few possibilities one may encounter;

1) No extension required or other change.
2) No extension required with minor re-routing by releasing the brake hose from the intermediate support clip at the bottom right of the steering head (I think some may have added a replacement intermediate support; e.g. a cable tie).
3) Those who have required a longer brake hose may have needed to do so because:
a) They did not do any re-routing; e.g. releasing the hose from the intermediate support clip.
b) Variations in the OEM hose length required some to need an extension while others did not.

All of the above affected, of course, by the degree of relocation of the master cylinder, which is a combination of lift and, if applicable, back, and, again if applicable, whether you're using the original bars or not. Wider bars will inherently be more likely to require a hose extension while narrower bars will permit increased relocation of the bars without a hose extension.

One question I'd like answered is whether only the master hose can be changed or if the entire front set of hoses and manifold need to be changed. When I first bought my '12 DL650 I contacted one of the well known suppliers of such items and was told the latter; i.e. the entire set with manifold needed to be changed. Made it expensive and seemed to require tank removal for access to the connections between the manifold and the ABS control. Indeed, as best as I could see the hoses at the manifold from underneath, it does appear as if the hoses are connected to the manifold with permanent, swaged connectors.

So, is this correct or is there a way to disconnect the master hose from the manifold so you can replace only this hose? Do you need to remove the tank to do this or is it possible to do it from underneath?
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post #9 of 9 Old 11-30-2013, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoWPK View Post
No. The end points of the master brake line hose are the master cylinder and the manifold below the tank, with an intermediate clip at the bottom right of the steering head. The reference point for all these locations is the frame (for master cylinder via the handlebars), so, raising the fork tubes does not affect the length required for the master brake hose.
Went out to the garage for a closer look. You're absolutely correct. Very well put too, including your follow-up question. Thanks.
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