Brake Line Install - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2012-2016 DL650A 2012-2016 (L2-L6)

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Line Install

I've been lurking here for a while, but this is my first post.

I want to install steel braided brake lines on my 2013. The connections between the line from the master cylinder to the ABS unit and the one from the ABS unit and the wheel are just above the radiator. It is really tight in there. I can get a wrench on the connection, but don't have much room to turn it. Do I need to drop the radiator or remove the gas tank, or is there sufficient room to disconnect the lines as is?
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 06:59 PM
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I was able to get it done without taking off the tank or Radiator. But, it is REALLY tight! I was taking maybe 1/16 turns at a time with the thinnest wrench I had. I was concerned the "olive" inserts might get cross-wise, but, it all turned out fine.
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I was afraid of that. Is there any flex in the steel lines? I was hoping I could lift them up a little so I could get the fitting mostly snug before attaching the block to the frame.
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 09:20 PM
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Be sure to keep us posted on the results. Pictures would be great too, of course, but the outcome is the most interesting.

Thanks!
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 10:04 PM
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I'm not at all sure that stainless braided brake lines are any improvement over stock lines except for bling.

When the stock lines deteriorate the aftermarket stainless lines may be cheaper replacements. The Teflon inner tube in stainless lines does not flex as well as the stock EPDM lines. I've had a stainless/Teflon line blow out.

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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I added them to my DRZ 400. You could see the original lines flex when you squeezed the brake lever. The braded lines were a definite improvement. It wasn't night&day, but the difference was there.
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-18-2014, 09:00 AM
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Anyone has installed steel braided line to 2012+ DL650 with ABS and may confirm any improvement in braking?
For sure the braking force will not be better, but maybe the feeling and reliability of brakes by mountain's rides.
Is it worth to spent ca. 150$?
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-19-2014, 10:49 AM
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Install the brake line improvement at the same time you do the bar riser.

That way, you're not in there twice.

For those that dont know this, the "olive" part thingie mentioned in a couple posts up, is a metal "doughnut" seal, and looks very similar to a compression type water seal fitting. But, it's miniscule. the size of a penny nail head.

*That* thing gave me fits during brake line reinstall. There's no way to tell if it's compressing sideways during the mash-up. You turn and pray...

I really, really, wanted bar risers, and I needed a longer brake line to get that.

So, yes, it's very tight in there reinstalling these brake line parts, and can be done without moving the rads or gas tank, but that "olive" part makes me to never want to go in there again.

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Last edited by mebgardner; 07-19-2014 at 11:01 AM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-20-2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mebgardner View Post
Install the brake line improvement at the same time you do the bar riser.

That way, you're not in there twice.

For those that dont know this, the "olive" part thingie mentioned in a couple posts up, is a metal "doughnut" seal, and looks very similar to a compression type water seal fitting. But, it's miniscule. the size of a penny nail head.

*That* thing gave me fits during brake line reinstall. There's no way to tell if it's compressing sideways during the mash-up. You turn and pray...

I really, really, wanted bar risers, and I needed a longer brake line to get that.

So, yes, it's very tight in there reinstalling these brake line parts, and can be done without moving the rads or gas tank, but that "olive" part makes me to never want to go in there again.
HMMMMMM....
I did them together this winter and I don't remember that anything as small as a nail head. There are brass compression rings either side of the brake line end to seal the bolt to the mounting point, but the "olive" part must be something else, as the brass rings are a no brainer.
Anyway, 5,000 miles and I don't have any leaks and the brakes work well, so......I must have gotten lucky


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post #10 of 10 Old 07-22-2014, 03:30 AM
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Danger Will Robinson

OK I have almost finished this job and made some mistakes that I will share.

I fitted 3.5 inch Rox risers that cleared the Scott Steering damper on my 2013 DL650. 2 inch risers didn't fit.

This made the handle bar switch lines too short and the brake lines too short.
I have re-routed the throttle and clutch to run behind the bars. works OK

To add the extender handlebar switch lines from Eastern Beaver it was easier just to remove the fairing, the fuel tank and air box. Deal with it, you will need to learn how to do this one day! The lines were very hard to pull apart at the plugs.

The access to the brake line junctions under the frame sucks, so I removed the radiator and it is just hanging there for the time being. easy job to do.

Now I can access the ABS control tube and fit the "Olive" into the rear of the box section brake line terminal. I would suggest that you fit a rag under your work zone so that the olive doesn't disappear into the motor area never to be seen again.

If you dont have an ABS model then you wont need the box section terminal and the olive, just banjo fittings. Ask me how I know, I bought the wrong kit from SV racing first.

I am suspecting that after reassembly I will have a few plastic pop rivets and bolts left over. Suzuki is reknown for over engineering any thing they build!!!

This could be a case where a bottle of Australia's finest reds in the man cave is called for + some nice music to calm my nerves

Last edited by xrman; 07-22-2014 at 03:33 AM.
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