what does it take to scrape pegs on a 2012 wee - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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what does it take to scrape pegs on a 2012 wee

i have been gettin bolder and bolder as i improve my skills but i dont really wanna scrape.....so how far of a lean does it take? do any of you fellas or ladies scrape very often?

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post #2 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 10:40 AM
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Personally for me, I don't do it often beacuse I don't trust the crappy roads around here, but I know that my Pilot Road 3s will take me all the way to scraping peg feelers.

Usually you are good to go for getting to the peg feelers. If you have a centerstand, sometimes it will scrape first going to the left (or so I have heard, I don't have a centrerstand). Keep your toes up by keeping the balls of your feet on the pegs, otherwise your toes will scrape first and that is a very unnerving feeling. Otherwise, you will hear the scrape of thr peg feeler and that is your warning to knock it off.

Basically the only thing stopping it is you. Be safe and keep the rubber side down!

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post #3 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 10:50 AM
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Just because you may scrape, does not necessarily mean you are riding faster or more aggressively than if you do not scrape. I do not scrape pegs, but feel I ride plenty fast and aggressive "it is about being smooth and with the proper technique".

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post #4 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 10:54 AM
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An unexpected dip in a hard corner when you have a passenger may be your first scrape, unless you plan for it....which is preferable, because you are more likely to respond best when you aren't jolted by the surprise.

Find a corner you can see through (for safety reasons), and practice leaning more and more. You don't have to go faster and faster to lean more and more.

Besides, leaning more isn't necessarily faster, as good riders only lean the bike as much as is required to make the turn (they keep the bike as upright as the speed/radius requires). But, to get used to the feeling of scraping, simply leaning more is one way to feel it. Once you get comfortable feeling the scrape, go through that same turn faster and faster, while avoiding the scraping. (You'll have to either observe or study someone doing it correctly if you don't understand what I mean by leaning only as much as the speed/radius requires.) Then, if you scrape while really going fast through a corner, your slower-speed-scraping exercise can help you stay relaxed when you happen to scrape on a higher speed turn.
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post #5 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
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Just because you may scrape, does not necessarily mean you are riding faster or more aggressively than if you do not scrape. I do not scrape pegs, but feel I ride plenty fast and aggressive "it is about being smooth and with the proper technique".
This is good. I don't usually scrape either but I am keeping up with my buddies who are scraping. If you are staying seated in the middle of the seat you will have to lean more. I am a previous sport bike rider so I tend to shift my seating position with my butt half on/off the seat and lean my body in. Doing this will get you into a corner just as fast without having to lean the bike as far.

But like Big B said, sometimes someone can ride faster and moreaggressive without scraping than someone who does. There is more than just scraping....

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post #6 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 11:08 AM
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Hmm,,, It is nice to have the "bragging rights" to say that you're able to scrape your pegs, BUT, that takes a helluva lot of lean angle and on public roads you're flirting with disaster.

"True Story:" A few years ago my buddy was checking out my old EX500. He's a Harley guy. So he looked at my footpeg feelers and said, "What are these for?" I told him that they were designed to scrape before anything else, to indicate that you were about at the limit of traction. After a brief inspection, he remarked, "Hm, there's not a single mark on them."

Last week my girlfriend and I rode all through southeast Ohio, with our "base" in Marietta. We also hit some spots in West Virginia, right across the river. WOW, those roads are awesome! 26, 555, 565, 537, 255, 260; the list goes on and on and I definitely plan on going back again! Anyway, riding two-up with her for the whole trip, we did scrape her pegs a few times, first time ever for me, and quite startling for her. That wouldn't have happened but for the increased weight, causing the back of the bike to sit lower, and the Dan Vessel replacement/peg-lowering brackets that I put on for her. Riding solo and with stock pegs, it would've taken quite a bit more lean I think, not something I would want to push out there. The surrounding scenery would be quite unforgiving in a crash, and help would be a looong way away.

If that's what you really want to do, hey, it never hurts to become more familiar with your bike's handling, and gain the useful experience. Just do it when and where it's safe! If you consistently push the envelope on public roads, it's just a matter of time before you exceed your limits. Here's something I've been interested in myself, that I saw somewhere else. Looks like fun and would definitely improve one's skills!

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post #7 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddstrom View Post
i have been gettin bolder and bolder as i improve my skills but i dont really wanna scrape.....so how far of a lean does it take? do any of you fellas or ladies scrape very often?

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Both peg feelers on my 2012 650 have scrape marks. I have the Richland Ricks peg lowering kit on it, but that really doesn't cause them to scrape much sooner than the stock setting ( at lean angle the amount lowered doesn't change the actual height of the peg from the road as much as you might think ).

Riding style has more to do with peg dragging than simple speed. I lean to the inside of the turn, not scooting my butt off the seat, and keep my head pointed in the direction I want to go. If you drag the pegs while doing that, you are pushing pretty hard. If you let the bike lean and try to stay upright, the pegs will drag easily.

Suspension settings have a big effect on peg dragging. This is where the aftermarket springs can have a huge advantage as they don't compress near as much in the turns and give a lot more clearance.

Find a nice empty parking lot. Ride in circles and practice a good riding style for steep lean angles. Get comfortable doing that and don't necessarily try to drag the pegs. Most are surprised at just how far over the bike is leaning when the pegs touch and are not comfortable with it. Get more used to the steep angles and you will be more in control when pushing your limits.

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post #8 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 11:15 AM
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Scraping the pegs is real easy--just lean the wrong way in a brisk turn. If you keep your body upright while the bike leans...you lean away from the direction of the curve...they'll scrape. Do it more and you'll scrape hard parts on the bike. This takes weight off the tires and makes it more likely to skid.

Lean the right way, lean toward the pavement to the inside of the turn, and you'll rarely scrape the pegs. You need to get your body's center of mass, usually in the chest area, to the inside of the bike's center line. The farther your body is inside the more clearance you'll have under your inside peg. And, the more upright you keep your bike the better it will handle, scraping or not.

Often a rider will scrape their boots before they scrape the pegs. Many riders put the arch of their foot on the pegs and let their toes point out to the sides. It is better to put the ball of your foot on the pegs (you'll have better feel of the bike as well) and keep your feet straight ahead, and you'll scrape your boots much less.

DON'T FLINCH if you scrape the pegs. DON'T CHOP THE THROTTLE. DON'T BRAKE. DON'T DO ANYTHING ABRUPTLY. Braking or chopping off the throttle causes the bike to drop farther into the turn. Do smoothly roll on a bit of throttle to start to stand the bike up if there is room in the curve. Do pull back slightly on the inside grip to start to stand the bike up if there is room in the curve. And, if there isn't room in the curve, keep on riding, roll the throttle open, and ride to your planned exit of the curve.

Your tires have more traction than you expect. Even on wet clean pavement, your tires have good traction even when you scrape the pegs unless you do something dumb like brake or chop the throttle.

Start the turn wide. Turn your head to look all the way to the turn exit. Go deep & wide into the turn. Brake as you enter; downshift as needed for the exit. Turn sharpest when you're going slowest deep and wide in the curve. Roll on the throttle as you straighten and exit. Come closest to the inside of the curve at about the 2/3rds point through the turn (called the late apex) where you're already accelerating. The deep & wide turn-in gives you the best sight line of your turn exit, and you can plan the exit to avoid road hazards or the best entry to the next turn. Don't let your body cross the center line on a left turn. Give on-coming drivers a chance to miss you.

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Last edited by PTRider; 10-08-2013 at 11:19 AM.
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post #9 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 11:20 AM
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P.S. ToddStrom: Maybe I'm wrong but it sounds like you're new to riding... Please don't report to us later that you've trashed the new Strom! It's nice having a brand new bike and all, but for learning purposes you might've been better off buying something more expendable, like a used 250 Ninja or something. If you wreck that, who cares! (As long as you or anyone else doesn't get hurt, that is.) Or at the very least, invest in some sturdy crash bars! Good luck. :thumbsup:

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post #10 of 32 Old 10-08-2013, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverSatisfied View Post
Hmm,,, It is nice to have the "bragging rights" to say that you're able to scrape your pegs, BUT, that takes a helluva lot of lean angle and on public roads you're flirting with disaster.
Yep... all it takes is a little oil, diesel, dirt, gravel (all common on public roads) to quickly change things from scraping pegs to your whole bike scraping and your skin being scraped to the bone!

2012 DL650A Adventure, Yoshimura R-77 3/4 exhaust, Sargent World Sport Performance Plus seat, ProTaper SE Raptor bars, SW-Motech 25mm risers, ProGrip Grips, Suzuki handguards, Tuono mirrors, Givi skid plate, Adventure Tech fork brace, GPS mount, peg lowering kit, auxiliary power shelf, SW-Motech convertible foot pegs, SW-Motech extended shift lever, SVRacing frame sliders, Garmin Zumo 660, MRA Xcreen, Michelin Pilot Road 3 Trails, Eastern Beaver headlight relay, Coocase V37

Currently in the United Kingdom and looking for great rides. PM if you have suggestions.
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