How to change out front brake lines? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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How to change out front brake lines?

The dvd that came with the extended brake line kit from SV racing does'nt play in my mechanics player. Are there any instructions out there for replacing front brake lines?

Thanks

2013 650
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 03:26 PM
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It's pretty simple. First using the bleed screws remove the brake fluid. A clear plastic hose from the bleed screw to a jar keeps the mess down. Then just remove the old lines and replace with the new ones, refill the brake fluid reservoir with fresh fluid and bleed the brakes. Be sure to use the new crush washers on the banjo bolts as they are a one time part.

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post #3 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Brake lines

My mechanic says it looks like the radiator or gas tank needs to be removed in order to get to block under the top line?

Not so??
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Aums View Post
My mechanic says it looks like the radiator or gas tank needs to be removed in order to get to block under the top line?

Not so??
Popping the gas tank off makes it slightly easier, but it's still a PITA to remove and reconnect the brake lines going to the ABS unit. I did it a few months ago. The DVD didn't work for me either and Blair completely fell on his ass getting me replacement files.

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 05:09 PM
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 05:16 PM
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The OP has a Glee though and the connections are different. Thread moved.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-21-2013, 06:41 PM
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The upper end of the hose at the master cylinder will need the air bled out of it. It is a tedious job. When you get the air bled from the calipers, go to the master cylinder. Hold a rag under the banjo bolt, loosen it slightly, squeeze the lever, bleed out some fluid & air bubbles, tighten the bolt, release the lever, adjust the reservoir level, repeat, repeat, repeat..... When you're done, strap the lever down to the grip and let it sit overnight. Correct the reservoir level. You should end up with a very firm feel by this point.

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post #8 of 8 Old 09-23-2013, 12:22 PM
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PTRider, the method you describe to bleed the master cylinder is what I've used in the past up to the point where you say:

Quote:
Originally Posted by PTRider View Post
When you're done, strap the lever down to the grip and let it sit overnight. Correct the reservoir level. You should end up with a very firm feel by this point.
At this point the banjo bolt to the master has been tightened so how would you 'strap the level down to the grip'? Also, if anything, I would think you'd want the vent port in the piston open so the brake line is open to the reservoir allowing any remaining air in the line that rises to the master to vent to the reservoir, but the very first bit of movement of the brake lever, and master piston, closes off the vent port isolating the brake line from the reservoir.
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