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DL650A - 2012-2016 DL650A 2012-2016 (L2-L6)

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post #1 of 23 Old 09-10-2013, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Any advice finding neutral waiting at long lights? What technique do you use? I keep skipping it. Also sometimes if in neutral before the bike stops it won't go into first if I don't roll the bike slightly or can take off in second. Finally I have to squeeze the clutch a little tighter now when starting the bike how can I adjust it so I don't need to death grip it to start the bike?

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Last edited by Captain Farkle; 09-10-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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post #2 of 23 Old 09-10-2013, 08:55 PM
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Check your clutch level operation and clean and grease the pivot if required, check your cable slack and that it slides in it's sheath with very little effort, and check the clutch actuator rod clearance and that the rod isn't gunk'd up or binding for any reason.

It might also just be time for an oil change.

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post #3 of 23 Old 09-10-2013, 09:35 PM
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My Neutral seems difficult to find too.

Bike was serviced when it was at the dealer and I've only owned it for a few weeks.
I'm gonna chalk it up to my noobishness, but it does seem that the force necessary to get it over the detent from 1st up or from 2nd down is enough to push the lever past neutral.
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post #4 of 23 Old 09-10-2013, 10:35 PM
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My bike had a very notchy transmission when it was new. I found the shifting action very clunky - a few times it felt like something must be mechanically wrong with it.

It smoothed out after a few thousand miles. Others here have related similar experiences.
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post #5 of 23 Old 09-10-2013, 10:42 PM
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My bike had a very notchy transmission when it was new. I found the shifting action very clunky - a few times it felt like something must be mechanically wrong with it.

It smoothed out after a few thousand miles. Others here have related similar experiences.
Mine has over 6500 miles on it. I bought it used.

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post #6 of 23 Old 09-11-2013, 07:38 AM
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Mine has over 6500 miles on it. I bought it used.
Huh. Are you sure the dealer actually serviced it? Check the clutch free play.

I think mine sorted itself out well before 6500 miles - like maybe 2 or 3k - and I have many stories about dealers not doing things they were 'supposed' to do.
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post #7 of 23 Old 09-11-2013, 09:12 PM
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Huh. Are you sure the dealer actually serviced it? Check the clutch free play.

I think mine sorted itself out well before 6500 miles - like maybe 2 or 3k - and I have many stories about dealers not doing things they were 'supposed' to do.
Oil looks clean.
Clutch cable tension is per the Owner's Manual.

I highly doubt that anything they did or didn't do would have any affect on engine/gearbox internals. Either it's previous owner's lack of maintenance (Not likely. First service was at 650 miles and others were on time thereafter.) Otherwise it's a defect.

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post #8 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pele2048 View Post
Oil looks clean.
Clutch cable tension is per the Owner's Manual.

I highly doubt that anything they did or didn't do would have any affect on engine/gearbox internals. Either it's previous owner's lack of maintenance (Not likely. First service was at 650 miles and others were on time thereafter.) Otherwise it's a defect.
If the clutch isn't releasing enough neutral can be a right beyotch to find on most bikes, the Stromms are no different.
There are two clearance adjustments in the clutch, the cable slack is one, the actuator rod is the other. Both need to be right. Another thing that MIGHT help is to switch to one grade lighter oil, saw 5W40 instead of 10W40, or 10W40 instead of 15W40. It could be the clutch is just dragging a little in the oil.

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post #9 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 06:46 AM
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It's normal to have to move the bike slightly forward or backward to find neutral from a stop. I find it easier to shift from second to neutral while still moving forward; just a light downward tap from second, with or without clutch, gets it every time.

It's often similarly necessary to roll the bike slightly to engage first.

Both issues are related to how the shift dogs happen to line up as you stop. Totally normal.

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post #10 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 09:15 AM
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... the cable slack is one, the actuator rod is the other.
...

This is something that needs to be repeated.

Adjusting the clutch cable does not adjust the clutch release point unless there is no slack in the cable at all. It only adjusts when the cable starts moving the clutch release mechanism. If a clutch is dragging the adjustment is done within the housing that has the final drive sprocket in it.

And normally having a hard time finidng neutral (or hearing a real big clunk when put into first from netutral) are signs of the clutch dragging. A new bike might have a harder time and may just need some break in.

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