Rear axle nut stuck - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Dothan, Alabama
Posts: 9
Rear axle nut stuck

The other day I loosened the rear axle nuts and tightened the chain(so I thought). I tightened the axle nuts on both sides to 70 lbs. well I checked the chain again and it seemed loose still.

So tonite I went to loosen the rear axle nuts to tighten my chain again and they won't loosen. My son tried to help and it's like the nuts are on so tight they won't budge. I dunno what we're doing wrong.

My question is, can we still ride the bike even though we don't know how tight or how much torque it is on each side?? Will it mess something up further?

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post #2 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 12:51 AM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: South Bay CA.
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I am no expert and I have a Wee not a glee (I think in terms of chain adjustment they might be somewhat similar) but I'll give you my $ 0.02.

- You mentioned that you tightened the chain... did you measure and leave the appropriate slack....for the Wee its somewhere between 2-3cm with the bike on the centerstand.

If not my theory is that the chain might have been too tight and thus the axle bolt is now not perpendicular to the swing arms causing the axle nut to pinch the washer/swing arm.

I might have read somewhere on this forum that the manual recommended 70lbs-ft might be too high. In any case, I say go to town on that nut pull it out and check to see if the threads are still okay and re-adjust the chain.
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post #3 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 01:13 AM
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Common enough to have a sticky thread.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 06:54 AM
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YOU'RE going to need leverage to break the bolts loose. the wrenches and exstension in the bikes tool kit are not sufficient. the chain is better to be loose than tight. 1-1.5" slack in the chain is what i run. Too tight and it will "whine" and probably do some damage.

2012 DL650
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 07:10 AM
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I adjusted my chain twice just small increments for stretch since the bike is new. I just loosened the larger bolt on the right side since that is the axle nut. I only hold the left side axle if it is free spinning. And I only tighten down the **right** nut. I think you will need a longer breaker bar then the one in the tool kit to break it loose. Try a 12 inch pipe that the axle nut wrench can slide into.

Last edited by Uncle Fester; 09-03-2013 at 11:14 AM.
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post #6 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 07:38 AM
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Location: Richmond VA
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If you have any signs of corrosion then spray the nuts with "blaster" ( let them soak in for 10 minutes. Use a long handled "breaker bar" like this one available from Harbor Freight: 1/2" Drive 25" Breaker Bar.

This should break the nuts free. If not then tap the breaker bar with a mallet. You may have to give it a good lick but start with firm taps. I would double check my torque wrench to see if it is really set at 70 ft-lb. Make sure when you re-tighten that the reference marks are at the same distance on both sides. This should prevent misalignment and possibly binding.

2012 DL650 Adv,Trax boxes, GiviT480, Hepco Becker center stand, Enduro Guardian skidplate
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Dothan, Alabama
Posts: 9
Sicha thank you for offering your help. I did measure from the same point on each side with a caliper and it was the same number on the caliper when I adjusted the chain. I used the idea from a Dr V-Strom video I watched. So the chain adjustment is equal on both sides.

Also when it came to tools, I used a 250 lb torque wrench adjusted to 70 and a 1/2" ratchet for the other. So the tools I used were not wimpy.

so, I guess I will have to take it to the store I bought it from and they will have to cut it off??

btw, my vstrom is new -bought this past July.
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 08:47 AM
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: arizona
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Do chains always need tightening? Mine was at 1 1/2" around the first service time and it's since gone to 1 3/4" and it's holding there. I'm at 3200 miles/

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post #9 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by teknik View Post
Do chains always need tightening? Mine was at 1 1/2" around the first service time and it's since gone to 1 3/4" and it's holding there. I'm at 3200 miles/
Once it "settles in" there should be little change until internal wear begins - near the end of its life. Mine's steady now at 9000 miles.

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post #10 of 19 Old 09-03-2013, 09:26 AM
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2 to 3 cm of chain slack is right, about 7/8" to 1-1/4". As said above, once broken in it will rarely need readjusting until it is dying.

Sight down the chain off the rear sprocket to be sure it runs off straight is good.

That nut is probably galled on the axle threads. Order a new axle & nut. Twist the old one off or cut it off. Put a dab of antiseize paste on the new threads and torque to about 58 lbs-ft.

"Older people who are reasonable, good-tempered, and gracious will bear aging well. Those who are mean-spirited and irritable will be unhappy at every period of their lives.

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