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post #1 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Johannesburg
Posts: 21
Post Windscreen and Buffeting 2012+ DL650 - Appendix 1 - Custom Deflectors

Apologies up front if this 'Appendix' idea goes against the 'the only one' theme of the main Windscreen and Buffeting thread... I'd be happy to move this topic into that thread but it is getting a bit long... so didn't want to clog it up. Happy to rename this if inappropriate too.

Following on from my initial post here.

Herewith my guide to making your own Air Flares for the Glee:

Disclaimer - this is free advice and probably worth every penny. Please don't melt your bike and/or create something that distracts you and makes you fall off it at speed (or stationary for that matter!)... or anything like that. Oh... and please don't blame me if something goes wrong. I'm quite brave around the workshop although with no appropriate training. I've learned by trial and error and might be underestimating how easy I thought this was, or what a risk I took pressing (reasonably) hot Perspex to the plastic fairing of my prized Glee. I've never worked with Perspex until now... if that helps... but I've used a jigsaw and drill before. I wear eye protection these days too and so far so good. No Glee was hurt in the making of this article and there was no blood, burns or blindness suffered afterward by anyone involved or standing nearby.

WARNING: The design isn't perfect and you will need to somehow protect the plastics from being scratched when riding and the air pushes the Air Flares inwards toward the fairing. I'm still trying to figure out a permanent solution (ideas welcome!) but for now I'm using rubber sticker discs normally used under furniture. Glass protector buttons also work, and with one prototype I stuck foam rubber all along the edges, which really protects everything... but doesn't look too good.

What you'll need:

- Longer bolts than the ones in the fairing. I used ones about 50mm / 2" long. There is a limit to the length. If you feel around inside the fairing you'll realise there's something metal there that will eventually get in the way of the bolt if it's too long.

- Paper or cardboard to create a template.

- An A4 (roughly) sized sheet of Perspex or suitable material - I got mine from a signage company - just walked in and asked for an off-cut... cost - $0

- Suitable saw to cut out the shape

- Sandpaper to smooth things around the edges

- Plumbers torch or heat gun or some such thing with which to heat up the Perspex so that you can bend it. Lots of 'how to' stuff on YouTube... it surprised me how easy it is if you have a torch. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do it with a candle and some patience.

- Drill to make mounting holes. I used about a 6mm wood drill bit (I wanted the hole to be larger than the bolt to avoid stressing the Perspex).

- Rubber spacers / washers. I used a thick, hard rubber tap washer, surrounded by soft (old bicycle inner tube) cut outs, plus a metal washer on the outside.

- Something to protect the fairing from the Air Flare rubbing against it. As per warning above.

- A sip of good ale really helps now and then

Step 1:
Start out with this shape

Step 2:
Transfer this shape to your choice of material.

I tried with a thinner Perspex first, then opted to go with this 3mm stuff. There are pros and cons to the choice, around flexibility, durability, etc. My bike is garaged day and night and mostly on tarmac. They are pretty easy to make once you get the hang of it... so try different thicknesses and see what works best for you. I'm not sure if this methods works on anything other than Perspex though. So please do some research on how to bend other materials before simply aiming a flame at it.

Tip: Try leaving the protective film on to prevent scratching until you use the heat gun... then it needs to be off.

Tip: Make a few extra templates. Once you've bent them you'll realise how impossible it is to copy them again

Step 3:
Cut them out with a metal hacksaw / blade (or better if you know how). My jigsaw on medium speed worked OK.

Cut slowly, and watch out for heat buildup. The Perspex will likely melt here and there along your cuts. Sometimes it re-connects to the other half and bonds so strongly you have to cut it again

Try as far as possible to keep the material steady and avoid too much vibration/flexing. Just when you think you've finished with that last little bit to go, it might crack and you've got to start again

Step 4:
Sand down edges by hand or with a sander. The finer the paper the cleaner you'll get the edges apparently. I just used standard '60' gauge sandpaper that came with my sander.

Step 5:
Remove fairing bolt and store somewhere safe. You'll need to use a longer one if you're going to use enough rubber spacers to reduce vibration and permit some flexibility. See 'What you'll need' above.

Step 6:
Make sure you know where you want to position your Air Flare. I put these stickers on to show what I was lining things up with to try make something that kinda fits the lines of the fairing.

Hmmm... seems I've reach my limit of file attachments. Follow on post coming up!
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Last edited by [email protected]; 07-19-2013 at 03:29 PM.
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post #2 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Johannesburg
Posts: 21
Step 6 Continued

Step 7:
Heat up the Perspex along the indicated curve. I used a plumbers torch and you can see the flame size. I passed it over the material at a steady pace. Holding it in my hand, I could sense when the material wanted to bend just with gravity. You can heat from both sides.

Step 8:
While hot, hold the shape up against the fairing, and push from the outside in, so that the material 'crumples' into the space behind it. If you wear gloves (or work fast with quick touches), you can push the material up against the fairing to get it to match the shape more accurately. The hot Perspex didn't do any damage to the darker plastic. At one point I re-heated the sharp end to get it better aligned with the bolt hole, and pressed it against the hole, which is in the orange plastic... and when removing it I felt if may have been trying to 'stick' to it... . Luckily no awful outcome... but be careful. Maybe cover the fairing in metal foil or something?

This is about the bend shape you're looking for...

More to follow - but it's simply drill a hole in them, and mount them using suitable rubber / vibration damping material, and spacing them away from the plastics to avoid scratching the one against the other.
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post #3 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 02:20 PM
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I think this is different enough to allow it to stand alone. A link to it from the parent thread is probably a good idea. Please stay on topic though everybody. Don't stray off into windscreens and mirrors.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s

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post #4 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Johannesburg
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Step 9: Drilling holes then mounting

Step 9: Drill holes in the appropriate place.

I used about an 6mm wood bit. Using tape might help keep the edges clean. I guess small cracks here are what will cause them to break off further down the line. I also tried to keep the hole far enough away from any edge, and the hole a bit bigger than the bolt, so that pressure from the surrounding rubber washers was what touched the actual Perspex, not the bolt which could carry vibration.

Step 10:
Mount using rubber washers. Spacing them far enough away from the plastic may result in no need for protective things to be stuck between the Air Flares and the Fairing, but I'm not sure how effectively they will then deflect the air from that channel that sucks air inward towards your belly, then upward into and under your helmet causing noise... as well as disturbing the airflow past your helmet which I think all add up to the terrible buffeting and discomfort most of us reading this thread seem to be experiencing.

More on the warning about rubbing against the fairing.

At this point in time - I'm using small rubber disk shaped stickers about 1.5cm diameter, stuck on the fairing, to stop the Perspex Air Flare from touching the plastic. I'm pretty sure when it rains or I wash the bike, they'll eventually fall off and need to be replaced.

I'm working on a way to solve this. As soon as I or anyone else has a bright idea... please let us know!

Hope this helps. Anyone else with good ideas how to improve this concept please don't hesitate to contribute.

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post #5 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 03:37 PM
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Interesting thread. How thick is the perspex you used?

Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.

2012 DL650 - Havin' a blast!
2006 Suzuki VStar 1100 - To low to the ground, got tired of dragging the boards.
2009 BMW K1200GT - Couldn't do the high prices for EVERYTHING
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post #6 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 03:39 PM
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Have you rode with them attached? results?

Some people are like Slinky's. Not really good for anything, But the enjoyment of pushing them down a flight of stairs
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post #7 of 174 Old 07-19-2013, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Johannesburg
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Originally Posted by eaglefrq View Post
Interesting thread. How thick is the perspex you used?
About 3mm

Originally Posted by Skagit2013 View Post
Have you rode with them attached? results?
Yes absolutely - riding is now a totally different experience, even with the makeshift idea-in-the-making the effect is very noticeable. The air around the front of my torso is still and the buffeting is stopped. The noise 'booming' in my helmet is greatly reduced (completely eliminated with my Sparx Octane helmet, not entirely with my Shark flip face, but my hand-guards appear to be the main culprit now) and I can move the GIVI AF3101 to different heights to match differing speeds (traffic, outrides, etc.) and/or I'm using my gel seat pad so sitting a little higher up, etc. etc.

I can hear the bike now - which is awesome! :mrgreen:
post #8 of 174 Old 07-20-2013, 09:25 AM
Join Date: Aug 2012
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On the rubber stickies you may be able to use a small amount of tank gripper material for long lasting result. OR it may make sense to permanently fasten with hardware a rubber standoff on the deflector.

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Last edited by stephenmarklay; 07-20-2013 at 09:27 AM.
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post #9 of 174 Old 07-20-2013, 12:43 PM
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This is great! There is an older post titled Winglets. Thanks for thepics and instructions. Now if they can be made adjustable.

I don't mind the going and I don't mind the stopping. I absolutely hate the stop and going.
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post #10 of 174 Old 07-20-2013, 04:50 PM
Join Date: May 2012
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Maybe some of those black "door edge guards" for cars that the auto parts shop sells for a few bux... wouldn't stop the rubbing, but might allow it to rub without damage.

I love this idea; I'm going to order a Givi Airflow next week so I will have to make some of these too.


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