Whose bright idea was the clutch switch? - Page 11 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #101 of 115 Old 06-19-2019, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gert View Post
Anyone ever tried to modify a faulty clutch lever to activate the clutch switch? If I had a faulty clutch lever available, I was thinking if there was any way of drilling and tapping, then thread lock or by adding an extension to the faulty lever to activate the clutch switch or is there not enough material for any mod? Seems a waste to replace the faulty clutch lever, when a simple mod could possibly be an easy cure.
I have had clutch levers that were bent in such a way that the lever would hit the handlebar before the tab could activate the lever. At least one bike it worked the other way where the movement of the lever would release the switch. In this case riding down the tab with a diesel got it working.

Unfortunately I don't recall which strom had it which way.

..Tom
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My Opinion:
Vee or V= DL1000 before 2014
Vee2 or V2 = DL1000 2015 to 2019
Vee3 or V3 = DL1050 2020 to?

My Stroms:
2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 205,000+ km, 127,000+ miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.



Last edited by V-Tom; 06-19-2019 at 02:29 PM.
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post #102 of 115 Old 06-20-2019, 04:26 AM
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@drmonbowen , thanx for your pix. It appears that a mod could very well be an option. A piece of quarter inch flat could be drilled from the end, all the way down the length and a thread tapped. then mounted to the lever with the aid of 2 long retaining bolts to prevent any twisting of the homemade lug. I don't see a technical reason for that much pressure to be exerted, when activating the clutch switch. Maybe I'm wrong... what do you think?
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post #103 of 115 Old 06-20-2019, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gert View Post
@drmonbowen , thanx for your pix. It appears that a mod could very well be an option. A piece of quarter inch flat could be drilled from the end, all the way down the length and a thread tapped. then mounted to the lever with the aid of 2 long retaining bolts to prevent any twisting of the homemade lug. I don't see a technical reason for that much pressure to be exerted, when activating the clutch switch. Maybe I'm wrong... what do you think?
Total agreement. My thought was a piece of aluminum 90 degree angle, but the effect is the same. The plunger goes in very easily, so I don't see much load on it at all.

What I really don't get is the logic behind the switch-ECU combo: without the plunger moving, the engine will stall at idle. Occasionally. It's like the ECU checks that the plunger moves from time to time.
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post #104 of 115 Old 06-20-2019, 11:51 PM
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When the clutch is pulled in the ECU leans out the fuelling to stop pollution and save fuel, it is the lean situation that causes the bike to stall.

With the ECU's RPM assist in the new V2 2014 program I can bypass the clutch switch and the bike will not stall and I don't get the high idle, but it stops my cruise control from being set also.


I should add I have a PCFC fitted so I get more torque and much earlier so you may not get the same results.

Some of the 19 rides in my shed
2014 V2, Snoopy
2009 Wee, Pumbaa the pig
WR450F, The Blue Postie Bike
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Yamaha MT09 (FZ09), The Scud missile.
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post #105 of 115 Old 06-21-2019, 03:40 AM
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I would venture to say, that the clutch switch also could have another safety feature in that, imagine someone riding and accidentally depressing the starter switch ... possible engine or starter damage. There have been cases where riders have knocked the cutout switch by accident while riding, so it not inconceivable to activate the starter while riding.
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post #106 of 115 Old 06-21-2019, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gert View Post
I would venture to say, that the clutch switch also could have another safety feature in that, imagine someone riding and accidentally depressing the starter switch ... possible engine or starter damage. There have been cases where riders have knocked the cutout switch by accident while riding, so it not inconceivable to activate the starter while riding.
The nature of the clutch in the starter means hitting the starter button when running has no negative effects at all. I have done it many times with no effect other than to turn off the headlight.

But having said that I like that the clutch has the interlock to prevent starting when in gear without clutch lever pulled in.

..Tom

My Opinion:
Vee or V= DL1000 before 2014
Vee2 or V2 = DL1000 2015 to 2019
Vee3 or V3 = DL1050 2020 to?

My Stroms:
2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 205,000+ km, 127,000+ miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #107 of 115 Old 06-22-2019, 11:52 PM
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The ECU will stop the starter running.

Try it, hit the starter button and hold it in, when the bike starts the starter motor will stop running even though you are still pressing the button.

Many new cars will spin the starter until the motor starts even if you release the key or the start button, all ECU controlled.

On my Yamaha the lights don't shine until the motor is running, great way to do it, ECU again.
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Some of the 19 rides in my shed
2014 V2, Snoopy
2009 Wee, Pumbaa the pig
WR450F, The Blue Postie Bike
YZ250N smoker with rego, Stinky.
Yamaha MT09 (FZ09), The Scud missile.
Club Lead not Club Med.
He with the most toys wins.
Out of my depth in a puddle.
Live life on the edge you will see more that way.
Ridding a motorcycle keeps things in balance.
At the end of each trail and at the end of each day history is made.
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post #108 of 115 Old 06-27-2019, 09:45 PM
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I've had previous bikes that had a cluch safety switch and I jumped it cause it wasn't working anyways, but the bike started in neutral. If I stalled at a light I had to fish for neutral because I couldn't just start it with the clutch in because the switch was bad so I pulled the wires and connected them and no more worries. Just had to be careful about starting in gear...But now with this electronic stuff I'll be interested to see what can be done. Mine is a 2006 not sure what I can do on mine let alone a new one, probably best to keep a spare switch around
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post #109 of 115 Old 06-27-2019, 10:49 PM
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You can bypass the switch for a short term fix you just leave it there permanently.

Some of the 19 rides in my shed
2014 V2, Snoopy
2009 Wee, Pumbaa the pig
WR450F, The Blue Postie Bike
YZ250N smoker with rego, Stinky.
Yamaha MT09 (FZ09), The Scud missile.
Club Lead not Club Med.
He with the most toys wins.
Out of my depth in a puddle.
Live life on the edge you will see more that way.
Ridding a motorcycle keeps things in balance.
At the end of each trail and at the end of each day history is made.
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post #110 of 115 Old 06-28-2019, 04:20 AM
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As Rolex posted, as short term fix. I recall advice from the late Greywolf (Pat), that the clutch switch bypass should not be implemented and forgotten about. The shorting out of the clutch switch on the K7 and later model Wee, will impact on ECU which controls the idle and throttle performance of the bike. If any strange fueling issues start up after the clutch switch is shorted out, then you know the probable cause.... your shorted out clutch switch.

Last edited by Gert; 06-28-2019 at 04:25 AM.
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