How do I detach the clutch cable at the clutch end? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 17 Old 11-10-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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I'm putting tall handlebar risers and thus longer cables on my 2008 Wee. At the clutch end end of the cable, the cable is quite solidly attached to a metal assemblage that is part of the clutch throw-out mechanism, as the photo shows. The photo doesn't show well how it's held in there, but it's solid. Any tips on separating them? Do I just ram a small screwdriver in there and bend the metal out of the way, or am I being stupid and missing a truck?
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 12:08 AM
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Yours seems to be wedged in there pretty good. Normally you just need to push it down and then out back, when looked at as shown in your picture.

I think yours has been bend together more than necessary so you need to open it up a bit with a couple of screwdrivers and widen the center and the rear so the nipple is free to move.
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post #3 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 12:56 AM
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Hold the cable (with pliers?) and push the nipple down into the empty space in the holder. You should then be able to slide the cable out sideways through a slot in one side of that holder. You should if possible avoid bending the holder/bracket.

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post #4 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 01:16 AM
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It's been a while since I've looked a clutch cable but to my untrained eye it looks as though the part of the cable above where it attaches to the clutch mechanism has solder or something on it that prevents it from being pushed down and released.

It looks to me like solder, I would put a soldering iron to that and see if it melts away and if so it should be easy to release the cable end.

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ps: bourbon time so some observations may not be accurate.

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post #5 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 03:33 AM
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Another thought. Does the new cable have that bracket already on it? and you have to remove a split pin from the peg?
I have never had to replace my cable.

Edit: No it does not. One side of that bracket must have a slit in it to slide the cable out once the nipple is pushed down.
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Last edited by Brockie; 11-11-2019 at 03:38 AM.
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post #6 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-Tom View Post
it looks as though the part of the cable above where it attaches to the clutch mechanism has solder or something on it ...

ps: bourbon time so some observations may not be accurate.
Too much bourbon. The nipple is cast "solder" cast onto the cable or its brass and soldered onto the cable. They all are like that.

The bracket has a tendency to tighten up purely by the forces of the cable nipple pulling on it. So just open it up gently and the nipple will come out.
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post #7 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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I thank each of you for your replies. Unfortunately what's clear is that I was right, this photo doesn't show what's going on well enough. The dirt on the part obscures it a little too well. I'll clean it up and try again.

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post #8 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 02:09 PM
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Yeah, clean it up good. you might be surprised at what you find.

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post #9 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 09:38 PM
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So I went to the garage and took off my countershaft cover. Here it is - dirt and all.

As in my first post you need to push the nipple into the bracket after which the cable will slide out the slot in the bracket.
I also wonder why you disassembled the actuator mechanism. Do you still have the ball bearings? I have added the second image to assist with reassembly.

Also note the actuator adjustment described here: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...my-clutch.html
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-11-2019, 09:44 PM
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Protip if you don't mind destroying the old cable... use a pair of strong wirecutters to cut the bent metal tube portion off the lever-end of the old cable. Use duct tape or electrical tape to join that end to the actuator-end of the new cable, and pull the whole thing through. No need to take the bike apart or worry about routing.

And the little metal tab keeping the current cable end just needs to be bent out of the way with a small flathead screwdriver, and it will slip out enough to clear the slot. No need to overthink it.
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