Vstrom 650 RPM Fluctuations - Now Not Even Starting - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 6 Old 07-28-2019, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
Junior Trooper
Join Date: Jul 2019
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Exclamation Vstrom 650 RPM Fluctuations - Now Not Even Starting

At this point in time I have no idea what could be wrong with my 2009 Vstrom 650. It currently has 37,500 miles, and I purchased it with 32,000 miles. At about the 36,000 mile mark, I began to notice the RPM gauge showing fluctuations of about 500 RPM. The needle would just not stay in place, even with the throttle held steady. When riding I could even notice the change in power. There were a few occasions after refueling when I could not get the bike to start. It would take about four or five starting attempts to finally get it going, and sometimes when turning the key the fuel pump would not engage. Anytime after refueling it would have problems starting and maintaining idle. After I conducted some research on these forums, I decided to replace the fuel pump, as I kept reading about Vstroms having problems with bad fuel pumps. I replaced the fuel pump this past weekend ($600), in addition to the air filter and spark plugs, which needed to be done anyways. I rode it 50 miles and everything seemed fine.....until I went to refuel it. After filling the tank, I attempted to start the bike. The starter was cranking, but the bike would just not fire up. Multiple starting attempts eventually resulted in success, and I was able to finish the journey home. It should be noted that after getting it to start, the RPM fluctuations were +/- 1000. Yesterday I could not get the bike to start at all, even with the fuel pump activating each time the key was turned to the on position. I do not know what to do at this point, and I could really use some advice. Any thoughts on what could be the cause? Fuel pump relay? Poor electrical connection? Injectors?
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-28-2019, 06:30 PM
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There is a "fuel flow test" that I think you should search out and perform.
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-28-2019, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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I had a similar problem with my 2002 DL1000. Only recently purchased with weary low mileage it ran nicely.i did a 4 week 9300 mile trip to Alaska and when nearly home it was hard to start and was like it was running on 1 cylinder. Got back to South Dakota and found all 4 intake valves had no clearance. I adjusted and it ran sweet for 2000 miles then suddenly it ran like a 3 legged dog and difficult to start. Compression test found both pots at 50psi well below spec. Another valve check found all 4 intake valves again had no clearance. Reshimmed again now running like new.difficult to explain other than when I got it it was running extremely rich and my fuel economy was averaging 33mpg. I knew it had had the ecu adjusted using a Yoshi box by the previous owner. On my return from Alaska I managed to locate a Yoshi box and returned the fuel mapping back to stock in the idle range and leaned it out throughout the throttle ranges. Now it runs beautifully and Iím getting 43mpg. Iím guessing due to running so rich the intake valves had a buildup of carbon which has now burnt off allowing the valves to seat better.
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-28-2019, 09:41 PM
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I don't know squat about the shims or that design. A BMW dealer told me about his back lot tune up procedure. Bike on the center stand, run the bugger in 5th gear at about red line once it warmed up for several minutes
This was on the K100 series. Guys would lug the engines and not get enough oil passing through the components to prevent oil sludge build up on the shims. Running the engine hot at speed would eventually flush out the sludge under/around the shims and make the engine run right again.
Another BMW mechanic suggested hitting red line and the rev limiter occasionally on the R1100RT Boxer for the same purpose. Get hot oil to flush out the engine.
I'd do that on freeway on ramps. I rarely had to adjust valves when checking them.
Getting older now I don't play at the top of the rpm much anymore. I may be due for a shim change like the others.
You don't have to go fast, just stay in a lower gear and rev the crap out of it. You can take the windy roads in 5th or in 3rd at a higher rpm.
Like Keith Code told a guy once, When to shift? "At Red Line."
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-28-2019, 10:46 PM
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Your symptoms sound to me more like electrical issues, which are mostly bad/corroded connections in the wiring.

Common issues are with the clutch isolating switch and the side stand isolating switch.

Otherwise check the wiring and connectors for corrosion and damage. The main plug LHS under the faring beside the headstock or radiator is very susceptible to corrosion. Then open and check every electrical plug, especially in the front faring.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-29-2019, 11:22 AM
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Does it start easier with the throttle open ???

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