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Fuel Filter Bypass Mod

30K views 50 replies 12 participants last post by  eagleeye 
#1 ·
Hello!

I need to perform the high pressure fuel filter bypass mod, but I can not find any images. The original forum post for the mod at VSRI does not have the images anymore. I can not find a thread here with pictures either, at least for the older style of fuel pump. I need it for a 2003 SV650 so that should be the 03-07 era of pumps I think.

Does anybody have a link to a thread here?
 
#7 ·
That is the down side of the images linked via 3rd party servers and not saved directly to the site's database, they get lost over time. Reading on the SV site (https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/) on the subject of fuel pump by pass, they also refer to the same link posted by blaustrom.
I think that the area to be drilled for the filter bypass is similar on most FI models. Each link posted has a reference or pix of the drill angle and or the location to be drilled, which could be of help.
Another option would be to PM a moderator of VSRI and see if they are able to recover some of the missing pix that you require. Perhaps someone has made a backup of the VSRI bypass thread along with the necessary pix and can make it available to those looking for the info.
 
#8 ·
There must be something wrong with your browser or something, because I can still see the relevant images in this thread:

https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,6105.0.html

I have attached the relevant images to this post.

Note that that thread still talks about recuperating the connectors from the existing line. You need to do this very carefully in order not to damage the O-rings. A (much) later post in the thread (reply #311 to be exact) lists the Dorman 800-081 Fuel Line Quick Disconnect, 5/16” as the proper connector, available from various stores.
 

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#15 ·
There must be something wrong with your browser or something, because I can still see the relevant images in this thread:



I have attached the relevant images to this post.

Note that that thread still talks about recuperating the connectors from the existing line. You need to do this very carefully in order not to damage the O-rings. A (much) later post in the thread (reply #311 to be exact) lists the Dorman 800-081 Fuel Line Quick Disconnect, 5/16” as the proper connector, available from various stores.
Thank you for attaching the images. It turns out my browser was not displaying those images for some reason. Tried it on Chrome and it works.
 
#11 ·
#17 ·
Oh, one more tip. While you're doing the fuel filter bypass, you might also want to replace the little crossover fuel line between the two cylinders. That may prevent problems later, and you've got everything ready to go anyway. Just make sure you order a few extra hose clamps and an inch or so of extra fuel line.



Good idea, thank you! I'll check for that when I go back in there...again (for the 5th time).
 
#12 · (Edited)
I just did this mod 2 days ago and used the link.....

https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,6105.0.html

Mod went perfectly on my 04 DL650 went from a less than 200ml flow per test to 350ml flow.
Installation of external filter is the real challenge. Working in Mercury Marine engine world though I chose a Mercury quick connect inline fuel filter and the related fittings. Now filter service is a snap.
Thank you to who ever made the referred to post. Most helpful.
 
#14 · (Edited)

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#19 ·
Did you connect the fuel pump wire under the tank? there are 3 final connection when putting the gas tank back. The fuel hose itself. the vent hose, and the fuel pump connector.
 
#26 ·
I am thinking that. The pump needs to be submerged in gas first, then excess gas will fill up the thank. Once the pump is covered then it is okay to run the bike. (the motor is cooled by being submerged in gasoline.)

My gas syphoner is not fast so I may not have put enough gas in the tank. Also when I took the pump out not a lot of gas came out of it. I'm gonna give the tank a nice fill up and see.
 
#29 ·
Is there spark?

Finally could debris have bypassed the external filter during initial install and block the injector?
^^He's probably correct... either no spark or no fuel. What external in-line fuel filter did you end up using? What is the micron rating for the screen inside of it? I'd check the spark first. An old timing light with an inductive clip to go around the spark plug wire would be easy enough to use to see if there is spark.
 
#30 ·
I swapped the spark plug for a known good one. Same result. Not the best test but I know it is not the spark plug itself. So I checked the fuel lines and the part connecting the two fuel injectors for clogs. Nothing, they are clean.

I can check the fuel injectors next to see if they spray. How can I do that? If I pressurize the system the injectors may fly off. I'll check both injectors with a multimeter for now.
 
#38 ·
I swapped the spark plug for a known good one. Same result.
I'm not sure what you mean by "same result". If you merely pulled one plug and installed another, you still won't know if you are getting spark. Even a good plug with no spark from the coil is worthless. If you don't have an old timing light with an inductive clip to use for checking for spark with the plug in place then I would recommend that you pull the plug wire from the rear cylinder, attach it to another spark plug outside of the engine so you can see it, ground the plug against the head or frame or something (just don't bare hand it), hit start. If you see spark at the end of the plug, you know that the issue is fuel. You have to test for and know there is spark.
 
#34 ·
If you have compressed air available, take a 6" length of fuel line and stick it over the pintle/nozzle end of each injector, pour a little cleaning solution in the hose and use the air nozzle to jam in the end of the hose and back spray the injectors. This should blow out any gunk and the cleaning agent won't hurt either. Last time I did this I used a Chrysler injector cleaner that I had on hand, but just some gas or kerosene will likely do the job too.

If you're getting spark and air, fuel is the ingredient left to check, which you are doing. Have you checked for a signal to the rear injector? Sometimes the simple stuff gets us. Loose plug somewhere?
 
#35 ·
I took the injectors off the test them with the multimeter. They weren't dirty, the intake side was totally clean. But that is not the whole story so I'll try what you recommended.

I can't test peak voltage, but the ignition coil passed every other test. I swapped the spark plugs with a known (assumed) good one. Same result.
 
#41 ·
Have you perhaps read any of these threads, https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/425307-2007-vee-injector-spray-pattern.html or https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000...n-use-yamaha-marine-injector-rebuild-kit.html. The latter is for the Vee, but it would apply to the Wee as well. 'm not suggesting that the injectors part numbers are the same for both models, but the sourcing of spares / components is worth keeping in mind.
This site has some info on injectors and spray patterns, https://www.witchhunter.com/spraypattern1.php.
 
#42 ·
Both of my injectors work according to my multimeter. Only off thing is the o-ring on one of them is dead, and that is the one that was on the non-firing cylinder. Also apparently they have little filters in them, and those are definitely the originals. So I ordered a repair kit for the injectors. It should be here sometime this week.
 
#43 ·
Okay! Fuel is finally being delivered! After dealing with parts lost in the mail, defective filters, and unscrupulous eBay vendors...I was finally able to get the pump assembly sorted!


But, the rear cylinder still does not fire, of course. I know fuel is reaching the rear cylinder, because the spark plug was wet. It is however, quite black. Can I clean or should I just replace? Previously, I checked the rear cylinder's ignition coil resistance. It passed. I can not test the the peak voltage right now, not sure how without specialty tools.

So what should I do first to test that the spark plug is getting a spark?
 
#44 ·
So what should I do first to test that the spark plug is getting a spark?
Remove the spark plug. Push the spark plug cap back on it. Place the threaded/base area of the spark plug against a good ground. Crank engine. Watch for spark at plug.

Some like to install an old spark plug in the open hole. Or not. But be sure to blow debris out of the area. Some like to hold the spark plug by hand against a ground. That can be entertaining to anyone watching sometimes.
 
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