Stator Replacement - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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  • 1 Post By Juan Tanamera
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post #1 of 5 Old 07-26-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Stator Replacement

I'm getting up to speed on some of the common issues with the wee stroms. If a 2011 has the original stator and has no voltage issues should I still replace it? The bike I might buy has a Eastern Beaver 3 circuit solution wired in with spare plugs , upgraded voltage regulator to Compu-Fire 3 phase.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 5 Old 07-26-2019, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivercat96 View Post
If a 2011 has the original stator and has no voltage issues should I still replace it?
If it falls under a dealer recall, I would definitely get it done. If, however, you say it has no voltage issues, my thinkings is that there seems to be no reason to replace the stator -- unless you simply have money burning a hole in your pocket and you just want to replace it.

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post #3 of 5 Old 07-26-2019, 06:18 PM
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My 09 Wee is still on the original stator.

I believe keeping the oil level on the high side helps keep things cool and could extend the stators life, it has worked so far.

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post #4 of 5 Old 07-26-2019, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
My 09 Wee is still on the original stator.

I believe keeping the oil level on the high side helps keep things cool and could extend the stators life, it has worked so far.
This seems to be true. I have a 2011 and am on my 3rd stator in 100,000miles. I'm pretty sure the previous ones got fried due to not keeping my oil levels at the high side.

If you have to change your stator this might help:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Tanamera View Post
You can certainly replace it yourself. I am a mechanical novice too and it went fine on my 2011 DL650. I just took my time, kept everything organized as I pulled it off and took pictures along the way of how it all went together. I also have the service manual which is on my laptop which was useful in the garage. There are some excellent youtube vids by 'Dr V-Strom' on how to remove your fairings and gas tank if you have never done it before.

Here's what I can remember from doing this job:
>Order a replacement stator and gasket. Gasket's are pretty easy to source and I bought a used stator off ebay rather than a weak aftermarket one or wait for a backordered OEM replacement
>Take all the fairings off - keep all these together and you can even label/number the screws/fasteners if you forget where each one goes.
>Take the gas tank off -simple to do - follow the steps in the manual and/or watch the youtub vid on it. Note: an empty gas tank is easier to lift.
>Take the front sprocket cover off and the stator cover off. The old stator cover gasket is like a thin cardboard gasket and can be really caked onto the stator cover. I used a sharp exacto knife to remove it and others have used an emery cloth or acetone. I had read that if the bike was on a centrestand, that only a few drops of oil would drip out when removing the stator cover. For me it seemed closer to 300ml (perhaps my garage isn't totally level?) and I wasn't prepared for it so it made a good mess of my bench and garage floor. I would suggest having a small dish handy to catch any oil that drops.
>Remove the clutch mechanism by the front sprocket and keep off to the side or remove entirely. If it's really dirty with grime and gunk, then now would be a good time to remove it and clean it all down with a toothbrush and some cleaner. The clutch actuator has tiny ball bearings inside, so when you remove it, place it in a small dish while you are cleaning it. If any bearings fall out, it's no biggie, just finish your cleaning, put them back in and put some grease in there to keep them in place while you reinstall.
>Follow the instructions in the manual on how to adjust your clutch, since you are here already. Very easy to do and see the links at the bottom for more.
> You may possibly need remove the airbox to get at the stator wiring - I did not and was able to squeeze my slender digits into the tight spaces needed and unplug, then plug the connectors. At the very least, use the opportunity to replace your air filter or at least clean it, since you already have the gas tank off.
>When putting it all back together, it would help if you used a thin adhesive to keep the gasket from slipping off the cover as you slide it all back on the bike. I didn't use an adhesive and it was a little finicky to get it back on so that all the gasket holes properly lines up with the stator cover holes.
Overall this was a great learning experience and totally suitable for a novice if you have some simple tools, a few good resources and some patience. This would have probably cost me a few hundred dollars to have a shop do the work, but I bought some tools instead and did it myself.

Here's a few threads that may be of value for their text or pictures:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...tor-cover.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-...l-install.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...tallation.html
and clutch:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...ment-help.html
The sprocket area thread - leak fixes & rebuilds!
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post #5 of 5 Old 07-27-2019, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivercat96 View Post
I'm getting up to speed on some of the common issues with the wee stroms. If a 2011 has the original stator and has no voltage issues should I still replace it? The bike I might buy has a Eastern Beaver 3 circuit solution wired in with spare plugs , upgraded voltage regulator to Compu-Fire 3 phase.

Thanks!
New to this forum, but not to this issue. You mention the Compu-Fire 3 phase RR. This is a series RR that is different from the usual shunt style RR that most motorcycles are fitted with from the factory. This RR will aid in the longevity of the existing stator, and I would surmise this is why it was installed.

A series RR is installed and the power developed by the stator assembly is started/stopped as required by the electrical system. No power is shunted to ground as with the shunt style of RR.

The shunt style RR allows all power developed to flow through the RR and any voltage above the internal set point of approximately 14.2 VDC is shunted to ground, producing a lot of heat. Conversely, if the voltage falls less voltage is shunted to ground.

I agree with the other comments, if it's not broken, don't fix it - I have broken this rule on occasion. The Compu-Fire RR is a good upgrade.

Next time you look at the bike, check the stator connector for cleanliness and possible connector discolouration. If the connector is dirty or discoloured, replace. It's lasted this long, it's reasonable to think a new one will go for at least as long. There is a test for the stator to determine if the stator is good, but your question does not indicate that the stator needs to be looked at.

The other issue you have is this is a used motorcycle - 8 years old, and will probably need maintenance/work, and components can fail. I bought my 2012 (just) after a lot of research and discussions with other riders. I found there to be as many yeas as there are nays for this bike. My future maintenance/work requirements include installing a series RR, having a sprocket set and chain available, and possible install of a Power Commander (if needed), other than these items, normal maintenance IAW the OEM service manual.

If the bike is mechanically sound, maintenance done, it will probably do you well. You can control this aspect of the bike. As for electrical/electronics, fuel injection and the engine, you never know, same as a used car.

Good luck.
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