hot/switched/gnd wires in instrument panel connector - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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hot/switched/gnd wires in instrument panel connector

Hi there,
I am about to install a voltmeter on my DL650AK8. I bought a Koso Mini 3 Temp+Clock+Volt which has 3 wires to connect: a ground, a battery and a switched wire.

I believe the battery will power the clock at all times, with an LCD without backlight, while the switched will turn on the unit with backlight and all functions included the voltmeter (not sure if it then measures the volt from the battery wire or from the switched wire)

I'm trying to find a place to hook up these, following Basic Strom Wiring 101 (DL1000 & DL650), it seems the instrument panel connector is the closest place with all I need. I found this pic from the forum 217050-instrument-panel-connector (just added the numbers):


I then need a red, an orange and a black wire.

Number 1 (which was unplugged from the connector) & 2 look like hot wires.

Number 3 & 4 look like usable switched wires (not one of those to avoid: Orange/White, Orange/Black & Orange/Red)

Number 5 & 6 look like gnd wires

Would that work? Any of these wires I should be away from?

Is there a better place where I can find red/orange/black wires? What about the key ignition switch?

Moreover, what would be the best way to connect to the instrument panel connector wires?

The unit comes with this guillotin-type crimpers:


which I understand are a big no.

I could either:
- use posi-taps;
- unplug the wires from the connector, strip them some distance from the connector, solder them to the new wires, insulate them and re-connect;
- try to solder the new wires directly into the plugged wires on the back side of the connector, maybe stripping them few mm from the terminals

Any suggestion?

Thanks!

2008 DL650A
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 09:16 AM
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I recently installed a voltmeter too. I learned the hard way (got stranded with a dead battery because my stator fried and I was getting no charge) that a voltmeter is needed. I've also learned to run all farkles back to the battery on their own circuit. That is, personally I would not tap into the existing lines -- since you asked for suggestions. And especially do not use those guilloton connectors. For as small as those wires are, the potential for corrosion later is a risk I personally don't want to take. If I ever have intermittent electrical issues down the road years to come, I just have to disconnect at the aux fuse box rather than try to find and test every splice I made into the original wiring harness.

If you do want to splice into the wiring harness, the posi-tap connectors do have a fantastic reputation. https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html But I still prefer dedicated circuits.

I've set up a switched aux fuse box under my seat. The wires from the meter would go there, with the red meter wire then to constant power if you want the LCD on all the time (again, personally, I would not select that option. If I'm not at the bike, who cares what the time or temp is?). By wiring it through my switched aux fuse box, I also have a 3 amp fuse in the circuit. The instructions from your meter show no inline fuse. It is quite simple to run a wire under the tank back to the fuse box for its own isolated circuit.

And there seems to be some hesitation in your post. That is, you mention the wire "looks like" power, or "looks like" ground. Yeah, it is one thing to read and trust the wiring diagram but VERIFY with your handheld multi-meter. If those wires check out to be as you indicate, it seems you have the platform for an operational meter -- if you want to splice into the harness there.

And as for dismantling the plug to pull wires and solder in wires, your options #2 and #3, running a wire under the tank back to an aux fuse box would be easier and take less time.

.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 09:37 AM
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Do not ground to the vehicle. Go back to the battery.

Easiest install is:

Red wire to battery positive.
Black wire to battery negative.
Brown wire to a switched source.

On your bike you can use the positive of the factory heated grip connector behind the left side of the radiator or the tap into the brown wire going to the tail light (running light, not brake light) as the switched source. I use the brown tail light wire myself since it is easiest to to to.
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. I am installing the voltmeter for the same reason: I also got a fried stator. I wanted to avoid running the cables from the cockpit to the battery, unfortunately the wires are not long enough and I would have to extend them. But I understand (and share) your reluctance to alter the original wiring harness. I have a 12V socket on the crash bar, connected directly to the battery with a fuse, I could plug my red and black wire there. I would still need a switched source, I don't have an aux fuse box with one, so I would still need to plug into one...

Regarding the "always on" issue: I don't care for a clock when the bike is off (we have it anyhow). The instruction of the unit calls for both a hot and a switched source, I could connect both to the switched one, I don't know if it would work as well... I drop a mail to the vendor. Off course I can always just try...

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post #5 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlandrick View Post
Do not ground to the vehicle. Go back to the battery.
On your bike you can use the positive of the factory heated grip connector behind the left side of the radiator or the tap into the brown wire going to the tail light (running light, not brake light) as the switched source..
I thought the heated grip connector was only for the newer models... and the tail light is quite a distance from the voltmenter. What about the horn or the front light?

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post #6 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 12:54 PM
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Only one light has power going to it at a time so they will not work. All models have a heated grip connector. Later models also have a auxiliary power port connector that your bike does not.

To me its easier to run wire from the tail light up front than to dig out the heated grip connector, but others may see it differently.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-25-2019, 04:58 PM
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You could also get your switched power from the horn, a piggyback spade fitting is all you need.

Posi-taps are great for bigger loads.

I would have no concerns about using the blue taps providing they can be put in a weatherproof area, your clock/meter will have a almost zero load and if you do loose contact you will only loose the them it will not affect the bikes performance.

You can also fill the connectors with a sealant to protect the wires integrity.

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post #8 of 15 Old 08-09-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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In the end I connected both brown and red cables to the positive from the aix connector behind the radiator through posi-taps. The voltmeter only works when key is on.

My reading is 12.3 at idle and 13.3 above 3000rpm, I dont have anything plugged, except stock lights, 2 extra turning led lights on mirrors, a usb and 12v connectors non loaded... isn't it on the low side?

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post #9 of 15 Old 08-09-2019, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlandrick View Post
Do not ground to the vehicle. Go back to the battery.
Can you tell me why it is had to ground to the vehicle? Electrical side of the bike has always been my weakness. My aftermarket turn signals have been grounded to the bike for a few years without trouble. Am I doing some long term harm? Or just waiting for some impossible to diagnose trouble on the road?
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-09-2019, 12:09 PM
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The frame is made from mostly aluminum I suspect which can crate electrolysis and end up compromising the electrical connection.

You can do what I did which is run a heavy black ground wire from the battery to a post I made from a stainless bolt to the lower faring up front. Every add on electrical do-dad at the front of the bike is now grounded to this post.






Last edited by gdrew; 08-09-2019 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Spelling
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