StromTrooper banner

Fuel starvaton

5K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  blaustrom 
#1 ·
Let me go ahead and apologize for creating this topic, since I've seen its been covered multiple times, but i need some advice. I purchased 2008 Vstrom 650 (upgraded from a Boulevard S40) this past Friday and its been an absolute blast, until yesterday. It seems to freeze between 6k-7k rpm and stop accelerating under full throttle. It had been sitting for two years prior, but the guy had the bike up and running around for about a week before he posted it. From what i found on this forum, I need to look into the high pressure fuel filter and getting that replaced. Also i have a whine after start up, along with the almost dial-up like sound after flipping the kill switch with the key on. After taking it to my buddy at the shop and reading up it sounds like the fuel pump.

Now the reason i created this post is because I'm confused on a couple of things.

Is the sound from the fuel pump (whine) related to the clogged filters or could it be an issue with the pump itself? It just started yesterday along with the no top end. I've been looking at this for a replacement if so, does anyone know much about it, its the quantum t35, id post a link, but this is my first post.

I think i should replace the high-pressure fuel filter, but i read somewhere about a non-serviceable filter and im not sure what exactly to do about that. Should i look into just getting the changeable filters and clean what i can or shell out for the entire assembly?

I'm looking to do this work myself and was also curious about the bypass filter mod, but i think that only for earlier models, is this right?

I know I should've flushed the gas and done some more maintenance before this happened, but i was too excited and got stupid about it.
Thank y'all for all the info on this forum, seems like a great community and I hope to stick around for quite a while,
James.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
On my '07 Wee, I had to replace both the low-pressure filter (really just a small, simple strainer, if memory serves) and the high pressure filter.

My low pressure filter fell apart in my fingers. It was just.............gone.

The high pressure filter was easy enough to replace, with an OEM item, but, if you decide to do the work, when you pull the high pressure filter off the pump assembly - stop - and look very closely at the mating faces of both items. There's a small "bridge" piece of plastic or tubing that might come off with the old high pressure filter. You need that small item (need to put it on the new high pressure filter). I made the mistake of not doing this...

Beyond that, the symptoms of my bike is that it ran well from full tank (full gas tank) to about a half tank. After that, it ran poorly.

Don't know what to say about the sounds. I don't recall that whine on my bike. I also can't comment on the bypass. Lots have done that, apparently successfully, but, personally, I'd go OEM.

Good luck, regardless.

:smile2:

And welcome, btw!
 
#4 ·
To potentially save a lot of $$$ use the google box on the top right of this page and search"fuel filter bypass" or something like that and do some reading. It's really quite a simple job and may correct the whining noise as it did on my pump.
 
#5 ·
The only issue I'm having is finding a guide for the k7 and up wee. I've seen the guides for previous models and i assume the process is similar, but id like to really know what I'm doing if I'm gonna go drilling.
 
#8 ·
I've now got the parts ordered and they should arrive Friday. Ill look into doing the bypass next time around. I do have one more question since you brought it up. I have looked into chemicals for cleaning the gas tank, but I'm curious which route to take. As far as simple things go, I've had people tell me about using 99% isopropyl alcohol in the tank and my automotive professor suggested using clean gas to shake around in the tank. I would like to believe that that'd do the trick, but I have a feeling that theirs something better i could do to help flush the tank and prevent future filter issues. What would y'all recommend for this procedure?
 
#9 ·
You need to take the pump out and see what's going on. If there is rust then the process is much different then if there is just water and muck in there. Those you can just clean out.

I would not shake or do anything until the pump is out. You can empty most of the contents by running the pump, either repeated ignition switch activation or hotwiring the pump.
 
#10 ·
At this time I have the gas tank off and the fuel pump out and stored, with the fuel pump hole in the tank covered. I wont be able to check it back out till i make it back to the garage Friday night or Saturday. Ill let you know what I find and report back, hopefully with pictures. I was looking for something to throw in the tank for it to sit overnight, but i didn't have the time to do a proper inspection and just made the point to get the pump out for repairs this weekend.
 
#11 ·
In the schematic #2 is a small bag-like pickup screen. I have cleaned it as a maintenance issue to hopefully avoid problems.
So far so good. Over 210,000km on my 2007 DL1000 and no fuel starvation issues. And no bypass filter. I believe that my pump is a Mitsubishi manufactured pump and is used in thousands of small cars; many go further than most of our bikes and so pump more fuel over their lifespan. So I figured that a bypass filter wasn't necessary.
 
#12 ·
Running Strong

Sorry for the delay in getting back to the forum with an update. I've gotten the bike back together with new fuel filters, air filter & breather, spark plugs, coolant, oil, gas, and a couple other things here and there. I have to say that I thought this bike was running strong and had power before, but I couldn't have been more wrong. This thing is a damn rocket compared to my Suzuki S40 (Savage). Not that I'm a speed demon, but i think I'm in love, I didn't think it was possible to replicate my love for the s40, but the wee does impress.

Anyways I've got a couple of pictures while i was working and i wanted to see if anyone could shine some light a finding, within the process.
As it can be seen in the 2nd picture the low pressure filter/screen was completely gone, it fell out the bottom when i took the last sleeve of the base of the pump and the connector was still connected inside. Now after i got the base revealed i noticed this build up. this yellowish substance that I believe has been formed from the evaporated gas from where it has sat for 2 years, does this sound right? i went through and thoroughly cleaned the pump assembly's components with clean gas before inserting the new filters.

Almost imidiately after starting on my test ride i noticed the high pitch whine (assuming from the pump) started back, but not performance loss or hesitation has been noticed the past couple of days. From what ive been reading hear i believe its the bearings within the pump motor itself. Now I do plan on replacing it, but if it does happen to go out on me am i at risk of damaging any other parts or just the fact of being stuck where it fails?
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Sorry for the delay in getting back to the forum with an update. I've gotten the bike back together with new fuel filters, air filter & breather, spark plugs, coolant, oil, gas, and a couple other things here and there. I have to say that I thought this bike was running strong and had power before, but I couldn't have been more wrong. This thing is a damn rocket compared to my Suzuki S40 (Savage). Not that I'm a speed demon, but i think I'm in love, I didn't think it was possible to replicate my love for the s40, but the wee does impress.

Anyways I've got a couple of pictures while i was working and i wanted to see if anyone could shine some light a finding, within the process.
As it can be seen in the 2nd picture the low pressure filter/screen was completely gone, it fell out the bottom when i took the last sleeve of the base of the pump and the connector was still connected inside. Now after i got the base revealed i noticed this build up. this yellowish substance that I believe has been formed from the evaporated gas from where it has sat for 2 years, does this sound right? i went through and thoroughly cleaned the pump assembly's components with clean gas before inserting the new filters.

Almost imidiately after starting on my test ride i noticed the high pitch whine (assuming from the pump) started back, but not performance loss or hesitation has been noticed the past couple of days. From what ive been reading hear i believe its the bearings within the pump motor itself. Now I do plan on replacing it, but if it does happen to go out on me am i at risk of damaging any other parts or just the fact of being stuck where it fails?
That's what the fuel pickup screen did in mine. It had gone brittle and came apart in my fingers. I replaced it and the HP filter/regulator assembly, keeping the old one to drill out for a bypass if needed later.
I'd suggest running some cleaner through the system, strong stuff, to get any gunk out of the pump, lines, and injectors before declaring the bearings DOA.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HokiesRWee
#14 · (Edited)
I have an 08 and have done the external fuel filter by-pass. It was bogging down above 6k rpm and had a hard time maintaining speed on the highway.

You can drill the hole to relieve the High Pressure fuel filter similiar to the earlier vstrom. Just in different position to drill the hole.

everything else is pretty much the same. hardest part of the project is getting the fuel hose off on the engine side.
 
#15 ·
I've been running Techron Concentrate Plus through the tank (about an ounce or so at fill ups, depending on how much i put in). I'd like to try BG44k or Seafoam, but I need to read up on the Seafoam procedure and I can't seem to locate BG44k around here. I know that the Techron is good for the injectors, but I'm unsure of its usefulness on keeping the Hi-pressure filter. Any recommendations on additives for the filters, if there is such a thing? I know alot of people stand behind the Seafoam product, but I don't know if it would do any better than the Techron I'm using now. I've only ran about a tank and a half out of it and I haven't seen improvements in the pump squeal as of yet.

Also i kept my old filter/regulator for the bypass, for when/if the time comes that I need it.

On a side note that i forgot to mention earlier; I managed to slice a bit of the O-ring last time i had the pump apart (the one that goes over the metal tube in pic #4). I don't think that it's enough to allow seepage (it does have a slight overlap, of the ring, after reassembling, from the tear, but its minimal). I'd like to replace it next time I've got the bike apart. Should i just take it into a parts house and look for the same size ring or is there something more specific to look for?
 
#17 ·
Make sure you get the exact size AND fuel compatible material instead of a plain rubber o-ring or it will just end up dissolving.

As for the cleaners, they dissolve wax, gum, varnish ... that kind of thing. They can lift dirt out of the tank and lines, but that ends up in the filters. Really fine stuff that's gotten past the HP filter can be cleared from the lines and injectors but can sometimes require ultrasonic cleaning to remove if it's been allowed to build up. Techron etc won't remove grit from a filter since that's what the filters are there to catch. If the filters are blocking up with grit, it's time to replace them.
 
#16 ·
Nice bike. I like the yellow.

That low pressure filter was the item that just disintegrated when I removed it from my '07 Wee, 4 years ago. Thanks for the photo. It helps.

As for cleaning and addressing the whining sound, I suggest just riding the bike for a couple months and see what happens. Personally, I'd use top-grade fuel (highest cost), for its cleaning abilities, during that time.

I'm glad your bike is running much better. V-Stroms are awesome!

:smile2:
 
#18 ·
So it seems that I'll get to do the bypass sooner than I hoped. Today I encountered a Max rpm of ~7500, after seeming to stutter above 6.5k. It just froze when it hit that mark. It's been less than a week and it's started cutting down my top end again. There's no doubt in my mind it's the hi pressure filter. I'm going to attempt to gather the supplies and do the bypass tomorrow. Should I look into cleaning my tank or taking it to a radiator shop? Or perhaps getting a handful of filters, for the bypass, that I can switch out and/or clean?
 
#21 ·
Haha That's my poppa's Ultra and those Vance Hines pipes he's got on make the definition of what freedom sounds like. He sent off the parts to be custom painted while he was rebuilding it after his accident. The picture doesn't do it justice, you should see it out in the sun. It's actually his garage as well. I take my projects over there when I've got some work that needs done, since I am garageless.
 
#22 ·
I've got the parts needed for the bypass ready for pickup tomorrow. I went with the Wix fuel filter #33032 for now, but i am curious of any options that allow for cleanable filters or if maybe the wix can be back-washed?

I have some build up in my gas tank from the gas that was sitting in it for over 2 years. I would love to properly clean it, but the phrase "flash rust" comes up with a lot of the chemicals used and it worries the hell out of me. It looks similar to the same yellow build up that was on the base of the pump and its coated lightly on some sections inside the tank. I attempted to shake it up with clean gas before getting to this point of looking into the bypass, right after installing a new hi-pressure filter/regulator. I had the thought that if i found cheap or cleanable filters that i might be able to buy a couple and cycle them as i add additive to the gas and clean it out that way. However, I know that it would be a safer bet to clean the tank, but I'm really not sure where to start with it. It doesn't appear to be corroded now and i don't want to mess up my tank. I mean would the changing or cleaning of the filter, after bypass, be good enough or am i gonna need to suck it up and try and do a chemical flush?
 
#23 ·
Now that you've done or have decided to do the filter bypass, and the inside of your tank isn't showing signs of corrosion (rust), then flush it with clean gas while the tank is off the bike and with the fuel pump removed. Plug the holes and slosh it around and even let it sit a few hours or overnight then slosh it some more, drain and repeat if necessary. You can add a bit of sea-foam or naphtha while doing the sloshing but I don't think its really required at this stage of the process. Run your new Wix filter for the rest of this season and change it out prior to next season and you should be good. Remember, don't park the bike over winter without a full tank of non-ethanol fuel and some fuel extender for good measure.
 
#24 ·
Bypass is done and the bike is running better than ever! I should've done this first. I have some pics of the process as well. You,ll find a decent angle of viewing the hole drilled in the hi-pressure filter/regulator assembly. As well as the method I use to remove the bugger from the pump assembly and cleaning of the varnish in the gas tank (using a shotgun barrel cleaning tool). My final product and then a picture from my test ride up to the Tail of the Dragon (picture taken above Fontana Dam)
 

Attachments

#27 ·
Glad to see you solved the problem. Like you I have posted a few questions and got great responses. I would add some lucas fuel treatment. It lubes the pump as well.I have used it in everything from weedwacker to my car and truck. I do like the yellow. I looked at a yellow 1000 that sat as well but seller would not budge on price. I have a 05 1000 now.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top