2009 voltage drop - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 13 Old 05-30-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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2009 voltage drop

My 2009 DL650, 33K mi., voltage on installed meter has a couple of times dropped to approximately 12V, then come back up to 14V. This Monday it dropped from 14 V to around 12 V for maybe 30 minutes, stopped with key off, checked with a digital fluke meter 12.3 @ battery. Restarted ok but voltage still low on both meters. After riding a few minutes back to 14V on dash meter for the hour ride home. Will check connectors and ohm out stator. Did some searching and found what I've read is the later stator (32101-17G13) listed for $213 and Suzuki Stator Set DL65 (32100-17820-RX0) listed for $187. Also saw the 2017 (32101-28K00) for $201, but not sure if that would work?
Can anyone confirm that the DL65 set contains the latest stator and is either ok or best for the 2009? Also considering a Ricks which has worked well on my VFR or maybe an Electosport.
I'm also thinking of changing to the Shindengen series regulator or if available one from newer V-Strom. Thanks for any help you can offer.
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-30-2019, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vfrdave View Post
My 2009 DL650, 33K mi., voltage on installed meter has a couple of times dropped to approximately 12V, then come back up to 14V. This Monday it dropped from 14 V to around 12 V for maybe 30 minutes, stopped with key off, checked with a digital fluke meter 12.3 @ battery. Restarted ok but voltage still low on both meters. After riding a few minutes back to 14V on dash meter for the hour ride home. Will check connectors and ohm out stator. Did some searching and found what I've read is the later stator (32101-17G13) listed for $213 and Suzuki Stator Set DL65 (32100-17820-RX0) listed for $187. Also saw the 2017 (32101-28K00) for $201, but not sure if that would work?
Can anyone confirm that the DL65 set contains the latest stator and is either ok or best for the 2009? Also considering a Ricks which has worked well on my VFR or maybe an Electosport.
I'm also thinking of changing to the Shindengen series regulator or if available one from newer V-Strom. Thanks for any help you can offer.
You would do well to measure the stator's terminal-to-terminal resistance (at less than 0.2 Ohms or what you can resolve for all 3 pairs) and the terminal-to-chassis resistance (at many MegOhms, any terminal.) However, a failed stator can pass those resistance checks. This is why the service manual calls for also measuring the stator's open-circuit terminal-to-terminal voltage. This is done with the stator unplugged from the regulator. (You might unplug the headlights for this.) At 5000 RPM, you should see at least 70 VAC RMS between any pair of the 3 pins (in the free-hanging connector.) I cannot speak to what stators might fit your bike, but I can say it is premature to replace it until you see a bad resistance or open-circuit voltage result. The 2V DC fluctuation you are seeing could be an intermittant battery cell short. Normally, under steady load and/or charging, battery voltage should not fluctuate by 2 Volts. That happens to be the per-cell voltage for lead-acid batteries.
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-30-2019, 11:33 PM
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Voltage fluctuation is generally related to magnet migration or loose connections and not a shorted stator.
And stay away from non OEM stators, their reliability has been an issue with these bikes.

'09 VEE
'07 HD SEUC
'09 ST1300P
'06 ST1300
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-01-2019, 11:26 AM
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33k miles and 2009. Sounds like the stator is going. My second one just went. I replaced it with the newest OEM. The varnish is thicker. Bought from Bikebandit. Best price with shipping. Next I need to replace the Mossfet R/R with a series R/R.

Vstrom 650 ABS
'09 DR650
'07 Vulcan 900 LT
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-01-2019, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapperdog View Post
Voltage fluctuation is generally related to magnet migration......
Its a 650. They normally don't suffer from magnet migration.

Do the simple checks first: Make sure you have good contacts and tight connection at the battery terminals and the main as well as the minor ground cables. They can corrode and may have poor connection.

....
Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A

Last edited by blaustrom; 06-01-2019 at 11:37 AM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-03-2019, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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This weekend pulled it apart, cleaned and tightened all connections including battery & fuses. Connectors all looked good, no indication of overheating. Stator winding resistance all check ok & no shorting to common. Regulator Diode checks also ok. Rode 90 miles & voltage 13.9-14.1. I have Evitek LED headlights and noticed the left hi-beam is out which seems odd as hi beam is rarely on. Wonder if something going on there could be related to the voltage drop?? No other loads other than GPS so concerned regulator may be stressed and thinking of series regulator. I've been trying to find the SH775 or Polaris 4012941. There are a couple on e-bay for $109 showing ShinDengen that look genuine, but who knows. I've read a lot on the forum regarding charging issues. Anybody know where I can get a genuine SH 775 or should I just go for the SH 847?
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-03-2019, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Also, all legs of open circuit stator output measured in excess of 70 V ac. @ 5000 rpm. Trepidator, good thinking on battery. It holds at 12.65 V for several days and starts ok, but could vibration on rough roads cause intermittent shorting of cell?
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-03-2019, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vfrdave View Post
Also, all legs of open circuit stator output measured in excess of 70 V ac. @ 5000 rpm. Trepidator, good thinking on battery. It holds at 12.65 V for several days and starts ok, but could vibration on rough roads cause intermittent shorting of cell?
The type of battery usually used for motorcycles (AGM) should not suffer from the shock or vibration that gets past the suspension. If there is an intermittent short, the battery should be replaced because it is dangerous. If such a short stays open long enough to allow the cell to charge much, then shorts, significant chemical energy could be converted to heat in that one cell in a short time. I would not want to have that happening inches from the crown jewels.

Your stator test results really absolve that device. The regulator *might* be acting up, but the odds are against this. If it was my problem, I would put it on a 1A or 2A external charger for a few days and replace it if the unloaded terminal voltage does not get above 13.5V. And if it does get that high, I would get that battery to somebody who can load test it. I wholly agree with your suspicion that the erratic voltage signifies a problem.

I just recently bought an SH775 on Ebay (for my 2nd Wee.) They are not hard to find there, but there are a lot of pretenders, claiming they can replace an SH775. As you know if you've seen my posts on how much the stator is overstressed, that is a good and prudent upgrade whether your battery is nearly shot or not.
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-03-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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I've read that the later 2017 & up regulator is a series unit. Connectors look the same and appears to be smaller than SH775, available at Partzilla & elsewhere. Assuming they have held up, any reason that wouldn't work on the 2009?
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-03-2019, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by vfrdave View Post
I've read that the later 2017 & up regulator is a series unit. Connectors look the same and appears to be smaller than SH775, available at Partzilla & elsewhere. Assuming they have held up, any reason that wouldn't work on the 2009?
Without more evidence as to what that newer regulator is and how it performs, I can only say: It should work as well on the 2009 DL650 as on the 2017+ models. Whether the thermal design suffices to keep the dissipating devices cool enough, should 400W (or about 380W on older magnetos) of load be driven, is another question. If you do not plan to fully load the system (with heated gear and such), it seems like a reasonable bet. Electrically, it should be fine, assuming Suzuki did not do something truly stupid like reassign pin functions on the DC output connector. And if it works for you, that would be very welcome news here.


If it does work, however, I wonder why Suzuki is not doing that replacement as part of the recall against the older stator design.
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