post fuel pump replacement woes - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
Junior Trooper
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post fuel pump replacement woes

Hi All,
My '07 DL650 died on me a few weeks ago and I traced the issue to fuel pump failure. After replacing it (factory pump, not cheap) she started up fine and indicated not quite empty . A while later I started her again but she would fire and run for a second then die. The fuel gauge was indicating a totally empty tank. Added more fuel and charged battery but now not even a sputter. Thoughts?
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 02:25 AM
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Can you hear the pump cycle on when you turn on the ignition prior to cranking?
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Last edited by gdrew; 04-19-2019 at 02:27 AM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 03:50 AM
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Since you had a bad high pressure fuel filter / pump, could be that you have clogged injectors. Then again it could be simply a bad connection to the fuel pump, recheck the fuel pump connector as a first step. Is there any FI display on the clocks?
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 08:58 AM
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Check your fuel line make sure there's no kink?

I recently added a external fuel filter bypass to my wee. At the initial startup, it kept dying as the bike was getting fuel into the new external fuel filter. I had to crank about 5 or 6 times before fuel was completely in the fuel system.
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 09:08 AM
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1) How did you determine the original fuel pump was defective?
2) New and expensive does not necessarily equal good.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 09:18 AM
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Repeating some of what others have said:

- Make sure there's at least half a tank of gas (I'd fill it, but that's just me)
- Did battery really take charge? Is battery OK? Need to be sure of this.
- When ignition key is turned to "on", can you hear the fuel pump turn on? If not, fixing whatever's causing the pump to not turn on is the first order of business.
- If fuel pump does turn on with switch, attempt, several times, to start bike. Sounds like fuel lines might be empty and need to be refilled by the pump.
- Probably won't help, but maybe try a full-throttle start. I've had to do this once or twice, before. Can't recall the situation, but it can't hurt to try.
- Check electrical connections to pump

Good luck.

2007 Wee. Blue. Bought at 5K miles. Sold at 32K+ miles. Gone but not forgotten.

2012 Wee2 Adventure. Black. Bought at 26K miles. Now 43K+. Love it!
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-19-2019, 09:36 AM
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The fact that the fuel level indicator seems to show erroneous level indicates that there may be a problem with the electrical connection (connector). Is the replacement pump the correct model or are by any chance the wires changed in that connector?

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post #8 of 9 Old 04-20-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
Junior Trooper
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Langley, British Columbia
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You will love this one

So when I tested it originally I removed tested continuity on the wires leading to the fuel pump, gauge and all was good, then I pulled the relay and jumpered the contacts (red/white to yellow/red) no sound from the fuel pump therefore bad fuel pump right? I just tested everything again and the ground was intermittent at the connector. To add insult to injury the relay has turned out to be intermittent. Tag-teamed by electrical (I have 2 British cars so I am used to Lucas-abuse :-) . I ordered a new relay and will run a new ground from the fuel pump assembly. I have 108,000 kms on this bike so a new fuel pump is not a bad thing. The inside of the tank looked brand new too...all good! Time to ride.
Thank you for your input folks!
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-20-2019, 11:52 PM
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Most excellent!
But there is a lesson here pertaining to electrical diagnosis. At the load(in this case your fuel pump), if you have power and ground, the load HAS to work, unless it's defective. Continuity by itself doesnt tell the whole story.
One tool that works in this case is an inexpensive terminal test kit. This set consists of a number of common male and female electrical terminals. These are used to check the tightness of female terminals in connectors. Heat and vibration can open up the female terminals and cause intermittent opens in power and ground circuits, ECU circuits, you name it. These kits are commercially available, I bought 2 from Mazda years ago, but you can easily make your own. Purchase a variety of male terminals such as used on your motorcycle from an auto parts store and crimp or solder them to a piece of a coat hanger. DONE! Now you can use this tool to test the tightness and fit of the female terminal.
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