put dl1000 hydraulic clutch on dl650? - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #11 of 21 Old 04-06-2019, 04:37 PM
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How much force is required to get the clutch plates to separate, and how much force is wasted on friction in the clutch cable? With these modern teflon coated cables my gut feeling is that maybe only 10% of the force is due to friction. That's what you can potentially eliminate with a hydraulic clutch of a DL1000. Because the DL1000 hydraulic clutch is just that - a hydraulic system instead of a cable operated system. It's not a "power clutch" as in "power steering" or "power brakes". There is no energy of the engine going into the system to make clutch operation easier.
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-06-2019, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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There are bosses cast into the 650 case that the mechanical actuator bolts to. the slave cylinder would bolt there, to the existing bosses IF it is a perfect fit. In the meantime I think I will lengthen the arm that the cable pulls on by about 1/4". it is a short arm compared to the longer clutch actuating arms that we used to lengthen by 1/2" on some early motorcycles. before I lengthen the arm (retired welder here) I would like to get a fish weighing scale to see what kind of pull is required before and after the modification. so I will be held up until I get a fish weighing scale.
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post #13 of 21 Old 04-06-2019, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RLBranson View Post
I am an old person running around on a dl650 and in town I do an awful lot of clutching and shifting. nothing on this old person works as good as it used to, including hands.
Me too, R.L.
Arthritis is starting to set in, and, although the clutch on my bike is tolerable for now, I do miss the hydraulic clutch of my previous bike. I shift up clutchless from 3rd thru 6th and down 6th to 5th. Also, I find I don't need to pull the clutch lever all the way back except for initial launch,

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post #14 of 21 Old 04-06-2019, 07:34 PM
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I've always been impressed with the clutch function on the DL650 -- easily the nicest cable-operated clutch I've ever used. If there's a problem with your cable or actuating mechanism, those are pretty easy fixes.

If a clutch like the V-Strom's is giving you trouble, you might consider a DCT like the Honda NC700 / 750x. The bike has a strong following, and it's common to find them used with extremely (troubling, maybe) low miles. I've been considering a 2016 NC700X myself.
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post #15 of 21 Old 04-06-2019, 08:44 PM
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Have you ever considered adjustable levers? Perhaps moving the engagement point may assist.
BTW some Suzuki hydraulic clutches seem to have an overly large master cylinder internal diameter and a tendency to engage abruptly at almost full release, a tendency that would be a disadvantage to those with hand issues.

There is a discussion thread on the DL1000 hydraulic clutch here: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-...djustment.html

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post #16 of 21 Old 04-06-2019, 09:02 PM
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Have you looked at the Easy Pull systems....

Moose Easy Pull Clutch System

There are several all working on the same principle. I almost bought one then switched to a Honda with a lighter clutch.

A good solution for a heavy clutch
I bought and installed this system a month ago on my Suzuki dr650 and it's worked well so far. I commute to work in the city and was getting a sore wrist after 20 mins of stop and go so I picked this up as a cheap solution. Haven't had any pain since. Was easy to install but would recommend putting some grease inside as well as sealing with silicone or something as it's not waterproof. Installation took about 20 minutes. I docked 1 star because it came with zero instructions but you should be able to figure it out. It also gives you a longer pull so let's you modulate clutch engagement more precisely which can be good for launching from a stop or slow speed maneuvers. Highly recommended

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Last edited by Macdoc; 04-06-2019 at 09:05 PM.
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-07-2019, 02:50 AM
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-07-2019, 03:04 AM
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When my young bloke was 6 or 7 he had a KX80 and I fitted a Easy Pull clutch.

While it did ease some of the load it did also reduce some of the movement of the actuating arm meaning I had to have zero slack in the cable to get the clutch to function, having zero slack puts plate slip at risk.

Have you had a look at your clutch basket ?

They wear low points on the outer basket were the plates ride so when you pull on the leaver the plates must ride up onto the high points to separate.

Smoothing out the high points will make the clutch action easier and smoother, it is free to do and I would give it a try if I was in your position.

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post #19 of 21 Old 04-08-2019, 09:44 AM
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After about 5 miles of what I call power walking (continuous pulling and releasing clutch moving bike a few feet at a time) bike in construction traffic in Vegas the other day.
My hands are still killing me, the whole section was on an incline so had to ride brake too.
I would be interested in a improvement in the pull, but was very glad I was on my 650 instead of my 1000 because it is a much easier pull on the 650.
I need to get back in the habit of squeezing a stress ball or similar to build up hands while watching tv.
Used to have one on my desk and would use it when I thought about it, also not so dangerous when coworker stressed me and I threw it at him 😉

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post #20 of 21 Old 04-09-2019, 03:34 AM
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Have you tried pulling the clutch lever on someone else's DL650 to see if it is just your bike? The lightness of my Wee's clutch is one of the things I really like about the bike, yours may be defective?
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