Galfer brake lines. - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #11 of 16 Old 03-27-2019, 04:54 PM
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I also don't wait until I can see cords to replace a tire. I'm weird like that.

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post #12 of 16 Old 04-08-2019, 06:52 PM
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FWIW, I finally got around to replacing the stock clutch line with the Galfer +2" from Adventuretech.

Easy peasy install. After draining the fluid and unbolting the old line at both ends, I zip-tied lower banjo of new line to upper banjo of old line, to drag the new line through the frame to avoid having to move plastic/tank etc. for access. Did the wooden dowel thing to rotate the lower banjo to correct orientation, snugged bolts & new crush washers, filled & bled fluid.

This is just the thing if you want to use 3.5" risers and/or angle them very far back.

I'm replacing the rear line with a Galfer as well. Just received it today, not in a particular hurry to install though - requires moving some plastic, and I inhaled enough brake fluid vapor last week. :P

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post #13 of 16 Old 04-08-2019, 07:41 PM
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Glad to know that clutch line is an easy install. I'm getting ready to install the full stainless braided set on my Vee2. Of course "getting ready" means I have definitely decided to think hard about it.
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post #14 of 16 Old 04-14-2019, 09:13 PM
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I could arguably leave the factory rubber hose on the rear brake, but I can't abide having an unmatched set. So I finally got around to it today.

Wasn't the worst install ever, just a bit tedious to get the side cover off so I could access the rear master cylinder.

One area of concern: There is a length of flexible metal sleeve covering the front end of the original rear brake hose, where it curls through about a 200 turn to head back to the rear caliper.

I believe this metal sleeve is probably intended as a heat shield, as this turn in the brake line passes pretty close to an exhaust pipe.

It wasn't possible to salvage this heat shield from the factory hose. It won't fit over either banjo, so I would have had to cut it to get off.

Have you had any reports of the Galfer rear brake lines getting cooked? I hope the PVC coating doesn't melt from exhaust heat, even if the inner braided steel isn't likely to be damaged. Would also be a bummer if the brake fluid got too hot. Rear brake isn't essential for safety, but is useful.

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post #15 of 16 Old 04-16-2019, 05:29 PM
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Just ordered some +2 spieglers. I've never replaced lines before, any tips for bleeding them? Or is it just lots of extra 'cycles' to get the air out.

2009 Wee-Strom. Center Stand, Givi crash bars, AMS skid plate, MadStad wind screen mount, Cee Baily Windscreen, voltmeter, fork mount fog lights, Shinko 804/805, seat concepts saddle, EB PC8,heated grips, single headlight cutout, dual USB charger, 12v charger. Next mods: sonic springs, short blinkers, bark busters, delkevic exhaust.
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post #16 of 16 Old 04-16-2019, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StromRider30 View Post
Just ordered some +2 spieglers. I've never replaced lines before, any tips for bleeding them? Or is it just lots of extra 'cycles' to get the air out.
Having swapped both sets of lines + a couple of brake fluid replacements on my Vee, here are some thoughts & tips:

-Get yourself a good bleed/vacuum pump kit, like this Harbor Freight one: https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html

-Buy the big bottle (32 oz.) of store-brand DOT 4 brake fluid at Walmart. It's not expensive & you'll have more than enough. The front and rear brake systems together hold only a few oz. of fluid, so you'll have plenty to flush/bleed front brakes, rear brakes, and clutch (on DL1000).

-I was never able to get a solid, completely bubble-less flow coming out of the bleed screws. Not sure why. Maybe it was air leaking in around the bleed screw threads, when cracked open?

-So what I did instead was, I flushed the entire contents of the master cylinder through, 3-4 times per caliper.

-While doing the above, don't ever let the master cylinder run completely dry - you'll suck air into the lines.

-With new lines, I don't think it matters in what order you bleed the front calipers. The aftermarket line setups typically have a double-banjo at the master cylinder, so each caliper has its own line, therefore there's no "longest" line to flush first.

-To be extra-careful about getting any possible air out of the system - once you're pretty sure you've got all air out of the calipers, do the following:

--Squeeze the brake lever in (or push the pedal down, as appropriate) all the way and hold.

--Place a rag around the banjo bolt on the master cylinder.

--Crack the banjo open just a touch.

--Fluid will come out, hopefully the rag will catch it. Tighten the banjo back down, then release the brake lever.

--This should get rid of any bubbles hiding in the master cylinder banjo bolt.

-When done with all the above: secure the brake lever all the way in, and leave it that way overnight. Either place the master cylinder cover loosely, or leave the cover off & drape a rag over the cylinder (the idea is that you don't want random debris drifting into the master cylinder while it sits uncovered).

-By the next morning, any remaining air should have bubbled up and escaped. Screw the master cylinder lid back on, and you're good to go.

Hope this helps.

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