Looking for a stator and R/R - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 18 Old 01-28-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for a stator and R/R

Hello everyone, came out to my bike (2011 DL650) the other morning to find that it would not start. Got a jump and made it back home. After a quick test, it looks like my battery is not getting adequate charging.

(Everything off: 12.47 V -after overnight battery tender
Accessories on but bike off: 11.7V
When cranking: 9.9V
At idle: 11.7V
At 5000RPM 12.1V)

Looks like stator failure is not unknown for these bikes. I'm going to attempt to replace the stator myself as well as the RR while I'm at it. Are Electrosport stators still poorly regarded? Also I can't for the life of me find a RR, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Anything else I need to do the job?

Thanks again and apologies if I missed a recent thread covering my questions.
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-28-2019, 09:58 PM
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I replaced mine , on my 2009 DL650A , at about 60,000 km . It was burnt , just like in all the photos . The rectifier was probably fine , until I got a boost : You can get a boost from a car or tow truck , but that vehicle MUST NOT be running during the procedure ! If it is running , it will boost and start your bike , but fry the rectifier .

I got OEM parts from my dealer , used a standard socket set and hand tools , took about 2 hours ( and beers .)

That was about 40,000 km ago .

Alex .
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-28-2019, 10:13 PM
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electrosport sucks.

i have a new MOSFET RR kit i bought from roadstercycle if you're interested. it is complete with all connections and fittings.

PM me if interested

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post #4 of 18 Old 01-28-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newhoco View Post
I replaced mine , on my 2009 DL650A , at about 60,000 km . It was burnt , just like in all the photos . The rectifier was probably fine , until I got a boost : You can get a boost from a car or tow truck , but that vehicle MUST NOT be running during the procedure ! If it is running , it will boost and start your bike , but fry the rectifier .

I got OEM parts from my dealer , used a standard socket set and hand tools , took about 2 hours ( and beers .)

That was about 40,000 km ago .

Alex .
Thank you for the reply. I'm not very mechanically experienced, but I think I'd like to try and do this myself if anything to become more familiar with my bike. Other than a new gasket, do I need to buy anything else? About how much did your dealer charge you for the OEM part?

Thanks!
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-29-2019, 10:31 PM
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There are a couple of very detailed threads on the procedure , which can be found via the search function . I think the OEM parts came to about $200 CDN .

Good Luck !!
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-30-2019, 11:28 AM
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Check out the excellent SH847 series RR kit from roadstercycle.com

Stator DL650, 32101-17G13 (~$250), magneto gasket (~$10), 10mm socket, blue loctite, gasket sealer (just for the wire feed thru and to hold the gasket in place)


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post #7 of 18 Old 01-30-2019, 01:35 PM
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I sent you a PM

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post #8 of 18 Old 02-02-2019, 11:44 AM
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Here's an old post of mine that goes through the steps. It's worth nothing that if the fried stator is an original on the 2011 bike, Suzuki now gives the improved stator as the replacement which doesn't have the same issues as that original one. That's the one ending in G13 in the previous post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Tanamera View Post
I am a mechanical novice and it went fine on my 2011 DL650. I just took my time, kept everything organized as I pulled it off and took pictures along the way of how it all went together. I also have the service manual, both printed and on my laptop, which was useful in the garage. There are some excellent Youtube vids by 'Dr V-Strom' on how to remove your fairings and gas tank if you have never done it before. I took my time and was very happy with how smooth it went.

Here's what I can remember from doing this job:
>Order a replacement stator and gasket. Gasket's are pretty easy to source and I bought a used stator off ebay rather than a weak aftermarket one or wait for a seriously backordered OEM replacement (no longer backordered)
>Take all the fairings off - keep all these together and you can even label/number the screws/fasteners if you forget where each one goes.
>Take the gas tank off - simple to do - follow the steps in the manual and/or watch the youtub vid on it. Note: an empty gas tank is easier to lift.
>Take the front sprocket cover off and the stator cover off. The old stator cover gasket is like a thin cardboard gasket and can be really caked onto the stator cover. I used a sharp exacto knife to remove it and others have used an emery cloth or acetone. I had read that if the bike was on a centrestand, that only a few drops of oil would drip out when removing the stator cover. For me it seemed closer to 300ml (perhaps my garage isn't totally level?) and I wasn't prepared for it so it made a good mess of my bench and garage floor. I would suggest having a small dish handy to catch any oil that drops.
>Remove the clutch mechanism by the front sprocket and keep off to the side or remove entirely. If it's really dirty with grime and gunk, then now would be a good time to remove it and clean it all down with a toothbrush and some cleaner. The clutch actuator has tiny ball bearings inside, so when you remove it, place it in a small dish while you are cleaning it. If any bearings fall out, it's no biggie, just finish your cleaning, put them back in and put some grease in there to keep them in place while you reinstall.
>Follow the instructions in the manual on how to adjust your clutch, since you are here already. Very easy to do and see the links at the bottom for more.
> You may possibly need remove the airbox to get at the stator wiring - I did not and was able to squeeze my slender digits into the tight spaces needed and unplug, then plug the connectors. I ended up cutting a small piece of an inner fairing plastic that seemed the be serving no purpose whatsoever and preventing the connector from being easily fished out. This made the removal and re-installation a breeze. At the very least, use the opportunity to replace your air filter or at least clean it, since you already have the gas tank off.
>When putting it all back together, it would help if you used a thin adhesive to keep the gasket from slipping off the cover as you slide it all back on the bike. I didn't use an adhesive and it was a little finicky to get it back on so that all the gasket holes properly lines up with the stator cover holes.
Overall this was a great learning experience and totally suitable for a novice if you have some simple tools, a few good resources and some patience. This would have probably cost me a few hundred dollars to have a shop do the work, but I bought some tools instead and did it myself.

Here's a few threads that may be of value for their text or pictures:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...tor-cover.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-...l-install.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...tallation.html

Clutch:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...-actuator.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...ment-help.html
The sprocket area thread - leak fixes & rebuilds!





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post #9 of 18 Old 02-02-2019, 01:23 PM
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Here is a US seller https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oem...ed1559/magneto $222
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-02-2019, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC Rider View Post
Be very careful to get the post-recall stator. The part number in the fiche above (32101-17G12) is NOT it. You want 32101-17G13
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