Front brake line problems... - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 27 Old 06-01-2008, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Front brake line problems...

Hi all,
I had to get a longer Galfer SS front break line because I wanted to put some GenMar risers on my 08 ABS Wee. Long story short when I had finished the job I had handle bars that were way more comfortable but no front brakes. I've tried to bleed the air out as the manual says, but there is just no pressure in the new brake line at all. I guess I'm taking it in to the local stealership tomorrow. If anybody has any ideas I'd love to hear them, cuz I won't get much information out of the stealership. TIA
Bob

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post #2 of 27 Old 06-01-2008, 05:49 PM
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You've got air in the system. If all you did was replace the line and fill the reservoir, keep pumping that brake lever. It may take an hour, working the lever several times and then waiting.

Of course, there is a proper way to bleed the air out of hydraulic brakes, but the above method will work. Use google to find out how bleeding works.

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #3 of 27 Old 06-01-2008, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmcgee View Post
You've got air in the system. If all you did was replace the line and fill the reservoir, keep pumping that brake lever. It may take an hour, working the lever several times and then waiting.

Of course, there is a proper way to bleed the air out of hydraulic brakes, but the above method will work. Use google to find out how bleeding works.


The trick is to fill the reservoir, as described, and hold the brake lever in as you crack the bleeder valve, You need a clear tube on you bleeder hose and an 8mm wrench to do this,

As you crack the bleeder with the brake lever pulled in you will see the pressure release, so be prepared to close the bleeder quickly, and then pump the brake lever again until you rebuild the pressure, and release the bleeder, and close,

As you repeat this process, watch the reservoir, so that it does not empty.

This is easiest with a helper, But it will get the job done fairly quickly,

Soon you will see fluid with air bubbles in the clear hose, you are almost done now,

Keep the reservoir full to the full line, Pump the lever, and hold the lever tight while you release the bleeder, and your fluid should now flow out, You have created the vacuum, so watch the clear tube for no air and the reservoir so it does not run dry, and close the bleeder when you see no bubbles or the reservoir gets low. Repeat if necessary.

Now, get a Strong elastic or strap and use it to hold your brake on tight with the reservoir lid off for a few minutes while you tidy up. Any air left will rise under the pressure and vent through the open reservoir. Place the cap back on tight with the rubber band or strap, holding your brake lever tight, and leave it on until you are ready to go. Your front brakes should be pumped up.

This can usually be done faster, than it took me to describe the process,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

Last edited by SV Racing Parts; 06-02-2008 at 10:42 PM.
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post #4 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Abs???

Blair and tmmcgee,
Thanks for the replys. I have been trying to do as you suggest, but with no success. I think this may be because I have an ABS system, or perhaps I just haven't done it long enough...that's the problem, but I guess I'll go back at it since the dealer can't help me until Thursday. Thanks again for the help.
Bob

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post #5 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 04:00 PM
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Thumbs up SV Racing Parts, Gen Mar Handle Bar Risers, and SS Brake Lines

Hi Bob, the abs has a quasi braided line whereas the non-abs has a rubber line slightly longer,

I am working to get the correct length of the abs upper line, Once we know that, you can get a Stainless Steel line for that part at least and get your Gen Mar Handle Bar Risers to work,

I am working with Galfer right now on some pricing for SV Racing Parts for a SS set for the front and rear brake lines for our Vstrom bikes,

I will posting up the results as soon as I get them,

Thanks for the support, I appreciate it,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair




Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbabob View Post
Blair and tmmcgee,
Thanks for the replies. I have been trying to do as you suggest, but with no success. I think this may be because I have an ABS system, or perhaps I just haven't done it long enough...that's the problem, but I guess I'll go back at it since the dealer can't help me until Thursday. Thanks again for the help.
Bob
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post #6 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbabob View Post
Blair and tmmcgee,
Thanks for the replys. I have been trying to do as you suggest, but with no success. I think this may be because I have an ABS system, or perhaps I just haven't done it long enough...that's the problem, but I guess I'll go back at it since the dealer can't help me until Thursday. Thanks again for the help.
Bob
Just got word my wife's ABS will be in later this week, so I'm going to be doing the brake line soon. I already have the risers standing-by. I'll be very interested to see what you learn when you go back at it. Please do keep us informed.


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post #7 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbabob View Post
Blair and tmmcgee,
Thanks for the replys. I have been trying to do as you suggest, but with no success. I think this may be because I have an ABS system, or perhaps I just haven't done it long enough...that's the problem, but I guess I'll go back at it since the dealer can't help me until Thursday. Thanks again for the help.
Bob
ABS and non-ABS bleed the same way. Hold the brake lever in for several seconds and then pump. Repeat. Not having the parts to do a proper bleed when I did this job, I eventually got the air out after an hour or so.

With the top off the reservoir, you should be able to see air bubbling up when you work the lever. Sometimes only a single bubble. Keep at it.

There are a lot of how-to's out there. I like the first picture in this one. The method directly applies to the Vstrom. http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213448.html

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #8 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Makes sense...

Tom,
Thanks a bunch for updating your post. Now that I know all I need to do is stick with it and buy some clear tubing, that's what I'll do. Unfortunately I'll be working long hours for the next 2 days so it may be Thursday before I can report back to you guys.
Blair,
The parts guy at Suzuki measured my stock line and ordered a 22" custom SS from Galfer. The stock line turned out to be just shy of 18". I have a bunch of extra with this 4" extension :bom_furious3:, so I would recommend to all of you guys with ABS to go no more than a 21" line. I think 20" would work, but I'm not sure about that. 21" will work for sure. Thanks again for all the help and encouragement.
Cheers,
Bob

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post #9 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Got Brakes!

Tom,
Yup. That's the information I needed. I made yet another trip to the hardware store and got the tubing. It did take an hour and I know I didn't get all the air out, cuz they're a little spongy but I got brakes now. I thought I'd take a ride on Thursday then bleed em again and maybe that stubborn little air bubble will surface this time. Thanks again for the advice.
Cheers,
Bob
PS I had an air leak down at the tree (lower connection for the Galfer) There are 2 banjo fittings there that have to be bolted in. The new Galfer and the stock Suzuki behind it. Use the stock Suzuki washer as the last washer you put on that bolt before you put it together. The copper washer that Galfer sent didn't seal well enough in that spot though I did use them everywhere else. Hope that helps for those of you getting ready to do this project.
Bob

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post #10 of 27 Old 06-02-2008, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV Racing Parts View Post
Now, get a Strong elastic or strap and use it to hold your brake on tight with the reservoir lid off for a few hours. Any air left will rise under the pressure and vent through the open reservoir,
No, no, no, never ever leave the reservoir lid off for any longer than necessary. That is potentially life threatening

Brake fluid is hydrophilic it very easily and readily absorbs water or moisture from the atmosphere. When it absorbs moisture it causes the boiling pint of the fluid to drop considerably this in turn means the fluid will overheat and cause loss of brake pressure with sometimes even mild applications of the brakes under repeated normal stopping conditions.
Always leave your reservoirs sealed as long as possible and never use brake fluid from a container that has been previously opened and then resealed.
This is your life that you are playing with, the cost of brake fluid is a small price to pay.
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