Rear axle install question - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Rear axle install question

Replaced the rear wheel and I notice the manual doesn't say to apply anti-seize lubricant to the axle like on my Harley or any lube for that matter. Is this something they missed? Do most of you apply lubricant to the axle?
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post #2 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 04:17 PM
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A lot of us do, and then reduce the nut torque by 20%

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post #3 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 04:28 PM
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The axle threads have caused problems. I have yet to hear of an axle and wheel bearing sticking. https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...ad-galled.html

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #4 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 04:28 PM
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I do, could be wrong though!

As a rule of thumb (there are always exceptions) nearly all fasteners of most kinds benefit with some sort of anti-sieze/lubricant or some level of loc-tite, depending on application.

The loc-tite of any strength prevents moisture/corrosion/rust developing in the threads, thus assuring orderly removal.

Now I am sure I will receive a rash a sht for such a statement.

In addition to that, I would bet there is an entire book written on the subject.
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post #5 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 04:34 PM
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I have had history of axles rusting (not to the inner bearing race but between the bearings) and having sufficient effort required to acheive removal. However these were likely on MX and Trials motorcycles where they are exposed (submersed in the case of trials) to muddy water on a regular basis.
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post #6 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 05:23 PM
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Carl, when we tighten a threaded fastener, we might be concerned about how hard we squeeze the parts together (clamping force) especially where a gasket is used, and the stretch of the fastener...stretched tight but not beyond the yield point where it does not return to the original size. We really don't care how tight we twist it, but the twisting force, the torque, is the quickly way of tightening the same every time.

Picking a torque spec depends on the diameter of the fastener, the thread pitch, the material, the surface finish, and any lubrication. Friction is part of the torque. Changing the lube , thus reducing the friction, (using antiseize where none was called for, for example) changes the twisting force needed to get the same clamping force or desired amount of stretch. A 20% reduction in the spec'ed torque is a rough rule of thumb for threads where antiseize is used in normally dry threads to avoid over stretching due to the friction reduction. So...use care when antiseize is used where it is not spec'ed.

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post #7 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 05:40 PM
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Old Surf Dog-are you asking about the "axle"? Or, the axle "nut"? I always put a thin coat of grease on the axle itself before inserting it through the wheel/frame. It makes life simpler at tire removal time.
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post #8 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
The axle threads have caused problems. I have yet to hear of an axle and wheel bearing sticking. https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...ad-galled.html
Yer scaring me here Graywolf! I did put some anti-seize lube on the axle after doing a little more YouTube research on the matter but then I torqued it to the manuals spec. I then backed it off a smidgen to put the cotter pin in. Hope I don't have an issue with the treads galling!
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleRandy View Post
Old Surf Dog-are you asking about the "axle"? Or, the axle "nut"? I always put a thin coat of grease on the axle itself before inserting it through the wheel/frame. It makes life simpler at tire removal time.
I was referring to the axle in my question and I did go ahead and put some anti-seize on it. I wonder why the manual doesn't mention to?
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post #9 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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After reading about the galled threads I think I am going to go back out to the garage and back off the nut, add a little anti-seize and torque it to about 60 lbs.
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post #10 of 21 Old 07-08-2014, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Surf Dog View Post
I was referring to the axle in my question and I did go ahead and put some anti-seize on it. I wonder why the manual doesn't mention to?
The axle is stainless steel. It won't rust to the bearings like some axles on other bike have. Based on the bearing appearance on my bikes, I think the bearings are also stainless. The threads can cause a problem because SS on SS under high pressure can cold pressure weld, or gall.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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