Greywolf used to always suggest that it looks more full than it actually is when filling on the centerstand because it raised the back a bit compared to the front. So yes fill it right to the top of the sight gauge if it is on the centerstand.
why does the rear axle nut have notches on the outside if it's not a reverse thread? maybe I'm missing something but that's always been an indication of left handed threads.
chain tension specs seem a little tight to me at the bottom end. I adjusted it to the top end of the spec but was wondering if people run them a little looser?
Castellated nuts ( the ones you put cotter keys through the cutouts in the outer portion of them ) are not exclusive to left hand threads. They are simply a way to positively secure a nut against loosening. Quite common on fasteners that need an extra measure of safety.
A chain a bit on the loose side is ALWAYS better than one that is any too tight! There can be tremendous forces transferred to the bike from a too tight chain. Something has to give!
As long as you can see oil in the sight glass you are okay. Filling it to the top or just below the top of the sight glass give you no benefit. Shooting for the oil level to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the sight glass is ideal.
For the rear axle nut are you talking about a castle nut. Where the nut has cutouts and the axle has a whole in it to install a cotter pin to keep the nut from loosening and or tightening. For the record the axle nut is a standard right hand thread.
Chain tension should be checked at several places. Mark one link check the chain tension and take note. Rotate the wheel one turn and check the tension again and take note. Do this as many times as it takes to get the marked link back to where you started. Then adjust the tightest part of the chain to 1.25 to 1.5" of slack.
On a new fill with oil, I shoot for the top line every time and am happy if it is at full or even over. I do like to see a tiny air gap above the oil. These bikes almost all use a little oil. Why start out below full?
There is also some, including me, that feel the more oil in the bike, the more the oil will contact and cool the stator. On a dry sump engine, oil foaming is not typically an issue as the crank does not sling oil like a wet sump design.
As for checking on a center stand, that is fine, but slide a thin board under the front wheel until the bike wheels are equal distance from the floor. Yes I am OCD.
I was curious about the oil level because it was the first time i could properly check the shops work. I assume they used the proper quantity of oil but saw that the sight glass was half full warm (slightly less cool). they charged for 4L, so I was wondering why they didnt fill it right to the top indicator. I like to fill it right to the top line, just makes it a simple check before each ride. stand the bike up and lightly rock it while looking for the little bubble at the top of the sight glass.
the bikes got 1700km and the chain was at 1.75", didnt seem too loose but thought I'd bring her a little closer to spec. the manual says .8" - 1.2", .8 sounds way too tight so I adjusted to 1.25". thanks for the tips, sounds like I've got it in the right range.
the axle nut markings aren't important, though it makes me wonder why two people mentioned castle nuts.... do your bikes have them? I'm going to try and attach a small pic, looks like the forum will let me..... maybe. I'm guessing these notches now indicate a type if locking nut but to me the signify left hand threads.
Any good videos on checking chain slack, that are recommended from members of the forum.
I'm almost certain that my chain was adjusted too tightly on the service before pickup of the new bike. The chain feels like it's under constant tension.. even though I can force it up and down close to an inch.