2018 - clutch rattle 2nd day of riding - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2017+ DL1000A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #11 of 42 Old 04-05-2019, 09:30 AM
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Had the same issue...Idle Hammer for sure.

Went to the dealer and Suzuki sent them a notice on that. Stating that's due to the engine configuration, and will not harm the engine what so ever. Just went to the dealer so that they can register it in the system.

Found out that using other brand or oil. Motul 5100 in my case. Make it less noisy and the clutching ( was about to think I was due for a clutch after only 6000 miles) seems better than with the Suzuki oil.

2018 Vstrom 1000 XT yellow stinger
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post #12 of 42 Old 04-05-2019, 11:04 AM
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That is Idle Hammer.

For reasons no one has yet figured out it starts immediately after the first oil change.

Will never hurt anything.

Clutch basket issues on these typically don't come around until you approach 20,000 miles. Some less, some more, some way more.
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'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #13 of 42 Old 04-05-2019, 11:38 AM
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EVERY motorcycle I have ever owned has done this. I wouldn't sweat it.

I have been under the impression that the V-Stroms are stone reliable. Is the clutch basket thing like the "rectifier" some bikes (maybe only 650s) had trouble with in the past that needed to be changed and once it was the problem went away? By this I mean will all bikes have this issue and is it a defect or a part that has simply worn out?

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post #14 of 42 Old 04-05-2019, 11:50 AM
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All years DL and SV 1000 have clutch basket design issues. The later models are tighter from the factory and take longer to show symptoms. That also means these come on slower and that means the owners tend to not realize how much difference there is!

This is NOT like a rectifier or stator problem that leaves you stranded!

Not really a reliability issue at all. Meaning it will NOT leave you stranded. What it does is add a lot of unwelcome noises and worst of all some significant vibrations that are bad enough that you tend to learn to ride around the problem. Like always keeping the bike above 4000 rpm. There is a permanent fix for the design problems. See my signature below!
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'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #15 of 42 Old 04-05-2019, 08:03 PM
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I read in a setup sheet a few years ago that DL1000s' come with straight 30 wt. mineral oil from the factory.
I'd give it a try before I took anything appart.

Jim
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post #16 of 42 Old 04-05-2019, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmm View Post
I read in a setup sheet a few years ago that DL1000s' come with straight 30 wt. mineral oil from the factory.
I'd give it a try before I took anything appart.

Jim
My understanding is that there is no special "break in oil", matter of fact Ducati's come from the factory with full synthetic Shell SynPower oil. I think it's the luck of the draw, as my 05 1000 had the hammer but my 06 didn't.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

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post #17 of 42 Old 04-07-2019, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by STCorndog View Post
I would NOT remove all the clutch free-play. This will cause excessive clutch wear. Free play is required and there is a proper range. realshelby is the go to guy for both clutch rattle/chudder or idle hammer.
Horsefeathers! Just removing the free play is not going to wear the clutch at all. (unless you go nuts and crank on it to the point that you're nearly disengaging) It just takes the slack out of the cable and your lever won't rattle on bumpy roads so much. The clutch will probably wear LESS if anything because it's actually disengaged while sitting at a light.

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post #18 of 42 Old 04-08-2019, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bighammer View Post
Horsefeathers! Just removing the free play is not going to wear the clutch at all. (unless you go nuts and crank on it to the point that you're nearly disengaging) It just takes the slack out of the cable and your lever won't rattle on bumpy roads so much. The clutch will probably wear LESS if anything because it's actually disengaged while sitting at a light.
Why you ask? Well I assume "Horsefeathers" means you were politely asking why anyway....

Because the clutch pressure plate has a bearing that should not be in contact with the push rod unless you are disengaging the clutch. The pressure plate is always spinning, the push rod is not. When the bike is in gear and rolling, or in neutral with the clutch engaged, the free play is the distance between the push rod end and the bearing.

This is why the clutch adjustment is important. You remove all free play, then back off the adjuster a small amount to set a minimum free play. Minimal play is OK but no play is not. As the clutch disks wear the free-play goes away and on a cable style clutch it must be adjusted periodically.

The best way to understand this is to pull up a micro-fiche from a DL650 clutch. At the pressure plate end of the push rod you will see a bearing. In a manual car tranny, this would be called a throw out bearing. Nice thing about a hydraulic clutch is free play is self adjusting.

P.S. - to me a disengaged clutch is when you have the lever pulled to the bar and the bike will not move while in gear.
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Last edited by STCorndog; 04-08-2019 at 06:57 PM.
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post #19 of 42 Old 04-09-2019, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bighammer View Post
Horsefeathers! Just removing the free play is not going to wear the clutch at all. (unless you go nuts and crank on it to the point that you're nearly disengaging) It just takes the slack out of the cable and your lever won't rattle on bumpy roads so much. The clutch will probably wear LESS if anything because it's actually disengaged while sitting at a light.
Why you ask<img src="https://www.stromtrooper.com/images/moresmilies/new_confused2.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" class="inlineimg" />? Well I assume "Horsefeathers" means you were politely asking why anyway....<img src="https://www.stromtrooper.com/images/StromTrooper_2015/smilies/tango_face_wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

Because the clutch pressure plate has a bearing that should not be in contact with the push rod unless you are disengaging the clutch. The pressure plate is always spinning, the push rod is not. When the bike is in gear and rolling, or in neutral with the clutch engaged, the free play is the distance between the push rod end and the bearing.

This is why the clutch adjustment is important. You remove all free play, then back off the adjuster a small amount to set a minimum free play. Minimal play is OK but no play is not. As the clutch disks wear the free-play goes away and on a cable style clutch it must be adjusted periodically.

The best way to understand this is to pull up a micro-fiche from a DL650 clutch. At the pressure plate end of the push rod you will see a bearing. In a manual car tranny, this would be called a throw out bearing. Nice thing about a hydraulic clutch is free play is self adjusting.

P.S. - to me a disengaged clutch is when you have the lever pulled to the bar and the bike will not move while in gear.
Good with a clutch with a cable...but the 1000 has an hydraulic clutch.
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post #20 of 42 Old 04-09-2019, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pete4x4 View Post
Good with a clutch with a cable...but the 1000 has an hydraulic clutch.
Exactly, we have a hydraulic clutch on these DL1000s so why are we even discussing clutch adjustments.

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