Horsefeathers! Just removing the free play is not going to wear the clutch at all. (unless you go nuts and crank on it to the point that you're nearly disengaging) It just takes the slack out of the cable and your lever won't rattle on bumpy roads so much. The clutch will probably wear LESS if anything because it's actually disengaged while sitting at a light.
Why you ask<img src="https://www.stromtrooper.com/images/moresmilies/new_confused2.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" class="inlineimg" />? Well I assume "Horsefeathers" means you were politely asking why anyway....<img src="https://www.stromtrooper.com/images/StromTrooper_2015/smilies/tango_face_wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
Because the clutch pressure plate has a bearing that should not
be in contact with the push rod unless you are disengaging the clutch. The pressure plate is always spinning, the push rod is not. When the bike is in gear and rolling, or in neutral with the clutch engaged, the free play is the distance between the push rod end and the bearing.
This is why the clutch adjustment is important. You remove all free play, then back off the adjuster a small amount to set a minimum free play. Minimal play is OK but no play is not. As the clutch disks wear the free-play goes away and on a cable style clutch it must be adjusted periodically.
The best way to understand this is to pull up a micro-fiche from a DL650 clutch. At the pressure plate end of the push rod you will see a bearing. In a manual car tranny, this would be called a throw out bearing. Nice thing about a hydraulic clutch is free play is self adjusting.
P.S. - to me a disengaged clutch is when you have the lever pulled to the bar and the bike will not move while in gear.