Traction control - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2017+ DL1000A - 2017 (L7) and later

 10Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 30 Old 03-21-2019, 07:22 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
bosnjo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Portugal
Posts: 941
I went one tooth down on front sprocket (16T) on my '18 model DL1000 as well as I did on my previous bike, '14 DL1000. Both bikes had tires replaced to Michelin PR4, front and rear. Front Trail and rear Non-Trail (there was no front Non-Trial). I've never had a problem with TC light. I ride with TC1 on dry paved roads and TC2 on wet.
V-Tom and Cambion like this.

2017 DL1000 White
2014 DL1000 Red (sold)
2012 DL650 White (sold)
bosnjo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 30 Old 03-22-2019, 02:54 AM
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 1,623
Unfortunately, the technical data concerning the range of acceptable wheel speed sensor readings isnt readily available, at least not to me. Do all the sensor rotors have the same number of slots among models in the same line, do they fit all the brake rotors, is there a difference in logic and strategy in the ABS control units? Beats me!
What I have done is use my labscope or the vehicle manufacturer's dedicated diagnostic computer and monitor the waveforms of the wheel speed sensors as seen by the control unit.
With the oem's diagnostic computer you could obtain a diagnostic trouble code, then monitor the wave forms of all the sensors to verify the reason for the code. Example:you see a square-tooth patern on a vehicle with square-tooth tone rings on the axle, and notice that one of the sensors shows an intermittent or missing pattern. Visual inspection shows a loose tone ring on the axle, cracked by rust formation between the 2 parts. Replace the tone ring, clear the code, recheck the readings, all now look good, and road test to verify the repair. Or Ive seen bad sensors with poor resistance readings, loose sensors, torn sensor wire harness,--even loose wheel bearings. With an volt-ohmmeter you can check the wire harness between the sensor and the control unit, the resistance of the sensor itself, and generated voltage in some systems. If all that checks good, and all control unit inputs and circuits to and from the control unit are good, by process of elimination it HAS to be a control unit issue.
What I havent seen is if there is a stored DTC in the OP's ABS control unit that would identify for sure what area of the ABS system is a problem. Again, it started with the tire change. Unless something was damaged during the work, or there was a coincidental failure, I would suspect a change in tire diameters as the culprit. Unfortunately once the old tires are deflated and off the rims, there is no way to get accurate measurements to compare what was on the bike to what is now on the bike. The best he could do would be to measure the tread depth differences between the old and the new tires. Between cars and motorcycles, there is very little operational differences between ABS systems.
Just half as many speed sensors to deal with.

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 03-22-2019 at 03:02 AM.
MAZ4ME is offline  
post #23 of 30 Old 03-24-2019, 10:08 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
basshead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 306
Garage
I've also went one tooth down in front (16T), but in my case I can't use TC2 as it will kick in almost instantly on dry pavement. I also had a speedo calibrator and the issue seems to be less since I removed it, but it's still there.

At this point I'll probably put back the stock front sprocket to confirm it's in fact causing the issue, but my guts is telling me that it might be something else.

2018 Yellow DL1000
basshead is offline  
 
post #24 of 30 Old 03-24-2019, 10:29 PM
Super Moderator
 
V-Tom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Port Perry, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 12,371
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead View Post
...
At this point I'll probably put back the stock front sprocket to confirm it's in fact causing the issue, but my guts is telling me that it might be something else.
Did you make any other changes when you changed the sprocket?

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 175,000+ km, 108,500+ miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


V-Tom is offline  
post #25 of 30 Old 03-24-2019, 10:39 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
basshead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 306
Garage
I've run on tc1 pretty much all season but decided to switch to tc2 when temp got near to freezing. bike at this point had 3 things changed: booster plug, speedo calibrator and 16t sprocket. I removed the first two and only have the sprocket now and the issue is still there. I've tried tc2 when I initially got the bike (100% stock) and it would kick in only if I was aggressive with the throttle, now more than 10% throttle and it kick in.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

2018 Yellow DL1000
basshead is offline  
post #26 of 30 Old 03-24-2019, 11:45 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
Sullaha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Aotearoa
Posts: 42
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead View Post
I've run on tc1 pretty much all season but decided to switch to tc2 when temp got near to freezing. bike at this point had 3 things changed: booster plug, speedo calibrator and 16t sprocket. I removed the first two and only have the sprocket now and the issue is still there. I've tried tc2 when I initially got the bike (100% stock) and it would kick in only if I was aggressive with the throttle, now more than 10% throttle and it kick in.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
Ever considered what lowering the gearing does to the rear wheel torque at the same engine RPM and throttle setting?

'17 DL650A -bike # 30 something-
'91 Yamaha SR313 Tracker
'97 BMW F650 "Die Haifisch"
'19 Indian FTR 1200S (when it F#%king gets here!)

D.A.S.C for life!
Sullaha is offline  
post #27 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 12:08 AM
Stromthusiast!
 
basshead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 306
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sullaha View Post
Ever considered what lowering the gearing does to the rear wheel torque at the same engine RPM and throttle setting?
yes, but a single tooth is not a drastic change and will not make tire spin at 50mph on dry pavement. on tc2 now going 50 the tc kick in if there's a small hill or a good head wind and need more throttle to keep my speed.

There's an issue and it's not traction related, but there's a sensor somewhere that is not happy.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
V-Tom likes this.

2018 Yellow DL1000
basshead is offline  
post #28 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 05:04 AM
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 3,615
I spent some time on my DL650 on grass this afternoon cycling the ABS. Doesn't have TC but the rear was spinning up without going sideways most of the time and the other times , I was heavier on the throttle and things were really hairy.

I'm still thinking that the TC isn't lying to you.

I know a KTM rider with karoo's 3's that managed to get them down to the belts in less than 2000k's. Admitted he was heavy on the throttle but he was spinning them everywhere.

As for the above comments, changing the sprockets isn't impacting the sensors at all. It is changing the forces on the rear wheel though and that could well cause more wheelspin.
PeteW is offline  
post #29 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 11:40 AM
Stromthusiast!
 
tenny80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 2,646
Garage
I got a good long first ride of the season in over the weekend and was able to get the TC light to come on under medium acceleration in 3rd gear. The roads still have a lot of dirt on them, so I think that might be all that it is. It's spinning enough to cause the light to come on. Once the street sweepers come out and start cleaning off the roads hopefully the light goes away. I have some new 100% street tires ready to go for my trips this year so i'll report back if I notice anything new but that wont be for a couple months yet.

2018 Vstrom 1000
2014 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Nomad
tenny80 is offline  
post #30 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 10:01 AM
Stromthusiast!
Junior Trooper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Calgary Canada
Posts: 7
Sorry I posted this response from Mccruise to the wrong thread, new to forum and have fat fingers. This is still relavent if you are considering a cruise control for your 2018 1000.
Dhudgeon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Traction Control - How Effective? kback DL650A - 2017+ 7 05-04-2017 02:01 PM
Smaller front sprocket + Traction Control question Patico DL1000A - 2014-2016 42 08-27-2016 11:10 AM
ABS Fuse Pulled - Traction Control Light On. Zig-Zag DL1000A - 2014-2016 19 06-13-2016 07:54 PM
Traction control works! chirosyd DL1000A - 2014-2016 16 10-31-2014 11:40 PM
When to use traction control? chirosyd DL1000A - 2014-2016 8 05-28-2014 09:35 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome