It shouldn't hurt the engine at all; the higher octane rating simply tells you the amount of compression it can take before spontaneously combusting.. it tells you how much "knock" you can expect. Highly-tuned performance engines rely on higher compression ratings to squeeze more umph out of the fuel, but most people will see little to no difference in the 87-92 range (except at altitude, although that's not something I've really dealt with..)
All things being equal, I'd be more suspect of the quality of the fuel than the octane rating; I'd definitely bring along an extra fuel filter and know how to change it (heck, I'd probably print the instructions out and toss them in the kit!)
Here's the science behind it. Your engine lets the fuel/air mixture enter the cylinder chamber, then compresses it with the piston. Once the mixture is fully compressed, it is ignited by the spark plug. Simples. However, if you compress a mixture too much, it will ignite by itself. This is called pre-ignition, pre-combustion, knocking and whatnot and is generally bad for your engine.
So fuels, amongst other things, are measured for their anti-knock properties. This is done using the "octane rating". Octane is originally the name a fuel compound that resists the knocking, but today other compounds are used as well. The anti-knock properties are now indexed to the anti-knock properties of a fuel that's 100% octane, or something like that, where a 100% octane-fuel has an anti-knock index of 100. The resulting "octane rating" therefore tells you something about the maximum compression that you can apply to the fuel before it ignites spontaneously.
If you have a low compression (let's say 1:10) engine, you can use a fuel with a low octane value. If you have a high compression (let's say 1:13) engine, you need a higher octane value.
The 2014+ DL1000 has a compression ratio of 1:11.3. Because of this, Suzuki specifies a minimum of 87 octane fuel (using the R+M/2 method - note there are two methods for measuring the octane rating). Any fuel with an octane rating above that has anti-knock properties that you don't need. And a higher octane fuel does not give you better performance.
Why the myth that a higher octane fuel does give better performance? Because high-performance engines use higher compression rations, and because of this require higher octane ratings. That leads to the association of high performance = high octane. But that association only works one way: A high octane fuel in a low compression engine does not give higher performance.
That's not all of the story though. Fuel manufacturers can also use a different additives package in their "premium" fuels, or may refine them to a higher standard (less impurities). That could potentially lead to less engine problems. However, you have no way of telling this at the pump. That's why I like the advice of Kerri: Use whatever fuel is available as long as it's 87 octane or higher. But make sure you bring along an additional fuel filter, plus the tools, so that you can swap out a fuel filter on the road if necessary.
In fact, I would actually look at the other fuel users at the pump, and use the fuel that they use, as long as it's 87 octane or higher. If the locals all use a particular fuel, it can't be all that bad in the first place. Plus, the pump will have a higher turnover of that fuel so there's less chance that it goes stale or something.
Does the 2014+ DL1000 still have the fuel filter inside the high-pressure pump? In that case it might be worthwhile to do the fuel filter mod as preventative maintenance.