Mounting GIVI PLR3105 Rapid Release Tubular Side-Case Rack - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 03-25-2018, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Mounting GIVI PLR3105 Rapid Release Tubular Side-Case Rack

I'm pretty sure there's a couple of mistakes in the instructions.

First, the illustrations show using the shorter spacers on one mount (front?) and longer on the other. (rear?) It didn't seem right to me and I tried putting a shorter one at the top of each mount, and a longer one at the bottom of each. I mounted the racks, then mounted the lower mounts to the rack, and they lined up perfectly with the holes in the passenger footpeg mounts.

There is also instruction to enlarge the holes on the side plastic strips. The problem with that is that then only the center screw would be holding them on while the ends are free to float on the bushings. I started with the right side and unfortunately did drill the holes. The end doesn't fit quite as nice as it did before, and with this arrangement, there's nothing to snug it back down.
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-27-2018, 10:07 AM
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I recently put them on and agree the instructions are not great. I looked at mine and it looks like I put the small spacers on top and large on bottom of each mount as you described, but not sure unless its taken apart. I did do what the instructions said as far as location. Each mount is specific to a location so if things don't line up Check the mounts are in right spot. I had the same concerns about the plastic piece you have to drill larger so I just drilled the holes the same size as spacers so it was a snug fit and plastic wont move. If you already drilled out maybe a rubber gromet fitted over spacer and pushed up against plastic would hold it snug. Its not going to move anywhere once mounts are secured anyway.
I also just put on a givi rear monkey rear rack and it did not fit without modification to bike and a longer bolt not provided by givi. The lower support uses the same hole as the rear mount of side cases. If you are installing one also let me know and I will let you know what I had to do

Last edited by TAZ650; 03-27-2018 at 10:12 AM.
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-27-2018, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think I'm adding a rear rack. I was hoping to use Nelson Rigg Sierra Dry Saddlebags on the rack, but that top block is sort of in the way or the right bag would be way too low and be on the muffler. Looks like they put something in the heads of the screws to make it tougher to remove. I might remove it and add something to the racks to give some support for the bags I have. (not sure I want to spend the money or to go with hard cases.

I went ahead and ordered a new side plastic for the right side that I drilled. It was cheap and seems like an easier solution than adding extra parts. It looks kind of sloppy but I knew it would bug me every time I'd see that it's just not sitting in there right.

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post #4 of 14 Old 03-27-2018, 08:33 PM
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You are setting it up exactly like I am. lol. I also have the nelson riggs dry saddelbags and had the same problem with that top block into the bags.Those are actually allen head screws on the back of the block and they filled in the heads with something that looks like white plastic. simply use a knife or something to pry the plastic out of the head and use an allen key to remove screws and block comes right off and can be reinstalled if you ever decide on hard cases. I plan on just using the soft bags also but nice to have the option. I kept the bottom mount posts on the racks and rest the edge of the bag on them to keep them in position and just strap it onto racks, keeps it above exhaust

Last edited by TAZ650; 03-27-2018 at 08:37 PM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 03-27-2018, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TAZ650 View Post
You are setting it up exactly like I am. lol. I also have the nelson riggs dry saddelbags and had the same problem with that top block into the bags.Those are actually allen head screws on the back of the block and they filled in the heads with something that looks like white plastic. simply use a knife or something to pry the plastic out of the head and use an allen key to remove screws and block comes right off and can be reinstalled if you ever decide on hard cases. I plan on just using the soft bags also but nice to have the option. I kept the bottom mount posts on the racks and rest the edge of the bag on them to keep them in position and just strap it onto racks, keeps it above exhaust
Thank you.

I feel better just knowing that I'm not the only one to purchase a seemingly incompatible rack/bag combination; made my day.

I was sort of thinking the same thing about the lower support posts. Not much there though. Other issue is the height of the over-the-seat velcro straps; they are way too high to do any good unless there's something built up to that height. Between my distorted side plastic and bags that seemed too high and incompatible, I just took the racks off and rode the snot out of it yesterday. I knew if I went after those screws, I was going to reach for my angle grinder instead of a pick. Thanks for the tip.

I may end up adding some height to the rack somehow or maybe cut off the straps and do a huge velcro patch on the backside of each bag, and a sort of "plate" that goes on the rack. Maybe a couple velcro straps front and back (and top and bottom?) that would go around the rack for added security.

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post #6 of 14 Old 03-28-2018, 04:16 AM
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It sounds like you are trying some other bags and don't have the nelson riggs yet? I have them and they have cam buckle straps that wrap around the racks in 4 locations on each bag to hold them in position so the lower mount points on racks are just more of a guide. The protective backing pad makes it over the grab rails and the Velcro straps go right over the top, possibly don't even need the straps but makes sense to leave them for added support when loaded up. You can bring the straps under the grab rail also but seems better on top. I have not finalized them yet since I spent too much time getting off those mounting blocks and was also one step away from the grinder. lol. I am setting it up for a long trip so will have gear on top of straps of rear seat anyway. If you strap the bags only to the detachable parts of the racks then you can quick detach the racks and simply undo the top Velcro straps to remove everything when not needed.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-05-2018, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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For anyone else doing the same, threading a drywall screw into the plastic filler in the screws blows them right out.

I picked up some 3/32" aluminum trimmed the lower corners off to sort of follow the shape of the bags, then cut some slots for the lower screws. I drilled holes where the upper blocks were mounted on the racks and put the blocks back on (backwards) just to hold them in place for the moment. I'm thinking a big patch of velcro on the bags and aluminum would hold well, along with some kind of backup. Maybe the straps around the rack? Then I could probably just remove the big crossover straps.

It's looking like it will be very easy to just keep the bags on the racks, and just use the quick release mechanism to remove them (bag and rack) as a unit. (each side)
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-18-2018, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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I got to wondering, why is that wrench so long and heavy, anyway? Pretty quick and easy mod. I can leave the bags on the rack and remove each side as a unit.

My wife says I'm a smart monkey.
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-18-2018, 03:15 PM
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I bent a bolt and shaped the end on a grinder to fit the cut-outs, it fits in my bike tool kit and I leave the original hanging in my shed for use at home.

I also used longer bolts to fit the racks on my 2014 as I did not think the Givi bolts were good enough.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-25-2018, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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The racks seem decent, but the hardware and instructions totally suck. I ended up buying new machine screws. Looking at the plastic side trim from the bike (that should NOT be drilled out) the difference in height of the holes is less than the difference in the height of the spacers. I put them all on my lathe and took off the thickness of an extra washer off the upper ones, then washer thickness and hole difference off the longer ones.

With it all put together, the plates are vertical (parallel to the bike's vertical axis) and just line up better. A much neater looking install.

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