Completely Dead Dash, No Obvious Causes - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-21-2019, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Completely Dead Dash, No Obvious Causes

Hello,

Having an issue with my '14. Today, right after hard acceleration uphill (possible cause?) my dash went totally dead, no power, no lights, no speedo, tach at 0, just like it was off. Well, I did my research (or my Google-fu is weak) and I'm at a loss. I tried reseating the connecter behind the dash, any I could see or reach in the fairing, same with any under the seat. No blown fuses, including every inline one I could find. What's notable is when I turn the key to the parking position and blinkers work great but when switched to the "on" position, the blinkers don't illuminate (cylinder switch issue???).

Does anyone have ideas? I'd love to avoid paying someone else to diagnose it and I don't have the time to spare to have it dropped off, either.

Thank you,
Andrew
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post #2 of 17 Old 08-22-2019, 12:57 AM
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Hi, I think we need more details.

Is the engine still starting, running? Can you turn it off with the ignition?

How about rear lights, brake light?

When you say no lights, no headlights or no dash indicator lights?

Check battery contacts and ground cable contacts. Make sure they are clean and tight.
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-22-2019, 11:23 AM
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And when you are checking the battery connections, put a voltmeter on your battery that has been sitting for a few hours...what voltage do you get?

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post #4 of 17 Old 08-22-2019, 01:14 PM
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As mentioned earlier the battery connections are important to check. Make sure you seated the plug behind the dash (the larger one) properly and that it clicked in and it wouldn't hurt to check that all the pins are straight. If your only symptoms were the dash I would keep looking atthe wires and connections there

Your other symptoms (turn signal stuff) remind me of the issues I had with my wiring harness. I also replaced my ignition lock but that had no electrical issues just hard to turn some time. I believe there was a recall for the wiring harness so it probably wouldn't hurt to check with Suzuki if there is a recal that for your bike and if your bike had it taken care of. I did have wiring harness issues twice and had to push Suzuki for them to cover the second one.

..Tom
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My Opinion:
Vee or V= DL1000 before 2014
Vee2 or V2 = DL1000 2015 to 2019
Vee3 or V3 = DL1050 2020 to?

My Stroms:
2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 205,000+ km, 127,000+ miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-22-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all, thanks for the responses

I should note there aren't any performance issues. It still starts and runs, and I still use it for commuting, though I physically check the gas level and fill up more often.

Headlights work fine. The only lighting issue I'm aware of is the signals, though I don't think I looked at the tail/brake lights. I'll have to check that the ignition switch turns off the power, but I don't see why it wouldn't. When I said "no lights" I meant dash/idiot lights. The whole unit seems lifeless.
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-23-2019, 12:25 AM
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If truly all fuses are ok and battery has good contact including ground contacts at both ends then:

1. The instrument panel has died. (I think I never heard that that has happened but in case it leaks water I guess it could)

2. There is no ground. Not sure which connector behind the radiator feeds the instruments but I would check them all for corrosion, burn marks and see if that is the cause. Would help if you had a service manual with wiring diagram.
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-23-2019, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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I'll double check that connector to see it's not burned up or anything.

A couple things I checked/noticed, it does appear as though the rear light is inoperable (both the running and brake lamps). Now here's the really weird thing, the blue high beams light does work on the dash. That is the only one I've seen. It doesn't appear when I start the bike, only when I actually turn on the high beams.
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-23-2019, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post
If truly all fuses are ok and battery has good contact including ground contacts at both ends then:

2. There is no ground. Not sure which connector behind the radiator feeds the instruments but I would check them all for corrosion, burn marks and see if that is the cause. Would help if you had a service manual with wiring diagram.
Agreed.
As the headlights still work check the ground wire (black/white stripe) from the instrument panel. That wire goes to the connector plug and then joins with the headlight black/white stripe before going to the main plug left side of the radiator. Mine is a previous model but the electrical system is surely similar.
Barrabbas, are you confident that the instrument cluster plug is OK and free of corrosion? That the B/W wire up there is good? Can you clearly see and inspect the clean contacts in the plug and socket?
That B/W wire is the common ground for all the features of the display.

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post #9 of 17 Old 09-03-2019, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hey all, sorry for the delay. I've been crazy busy with moving over the weekend but this is a safety issue I need to fix ASAP. I really need my brake lights and blinkers.









These wires look completely fine, right? I have a multimeter. Maybe I'll just check that the ground is actually connected and if not, trace it? At this point, the only reason I haven't dropped it off at a shop is because I don't want to lose it for weeks and I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars in diagnostic hours.

Thanks again, everyone, for giving suggestions and helping me out.
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-04-2019, 12:06 AM
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Yes, those wires and connectors look good but looks can sometimes be deceiving.

Grab your MM and confirm the ground circuit is sound as per Brockie's post above.

You may want to try some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease on the pins, male and female sides. After cleaning and greasing push the plugs together almost until they lock and pull them apart, repeat a few times to ensure good connectivity.

Best of luck with it!
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