rebuilding Clutch Slave cylinder? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #1 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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rebuilding Clutch Slave cylinder?

Someone mentioned in a previous thread that they rebuild their Clutch Slave Cylinder. My latest started leaking so I put on a new one I had at hand. I would like to give a try at rebuilding the one I took off. Can you please let me know what parts I need to buy and what I have to do?

Any and all advice is appreciated!

..Tom
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2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

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post #2 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 12:24 PM
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First look at the old one. If the inner cylinder walls are pitted, don't even attempt it. It might be possible to sand the pitting away if it's not too deep, but it's most likely not going to be cost-effective.

If the walls are smooth, then all you really need is a new seal. #24 in this picture:
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/...rcycles/clutch

The very first DL1000s, essentially only the 2002 model, and maybe some 2003s as well, did not come with the dust cap. #25A. If you're ordering parts, get that one as well.

Rebuilding is just putting the parts together. There are no fasteners to fasten or anything. It's all being held together by either vacuum or a C-clamp (when off the bike) or by the clutch springs (on the bike).
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post #3 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 12:37 PM
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You can also buy a brake cylinder hone at most any autoparts store that will attach to a hand drill if you want to try cleaning up the surface inside. The trick there is to get the rhythm down for going in and out to achieve that diamond cross hatch. It seems these clutch cylinders are pretty short so it might be extra tricky (and perhaps not worth the effort as mentioned above).

Another bit of advice, be it good or bad... I only use the appropriate brake fluid during all of the cleaning, reconditioning, and reassembly. I suppose one could use other fluids so long as the "final rinse" is with the correct brake fluid to remove any other incompatible chemistry. The rubber bits in hydraulics work very hard and are typically chemically sensitive.
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post #4 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 06:00 PM
 
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https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/3

This is the schematic for a 2016 DL1000. Just click on the clutch in the "Select Parts" box. Since you already installed a new one and are just rebuilding the old, I would start with just going cheap by replacing #23, #34 and see if that gets it. Hope this helps.
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Last edited by BigThump; 04-24-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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post #5 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 06:35 PM
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Curious: It seems that V-Tom might be going to keep the rebuilt unit as a spare. I'm sure the rebuild will be a success.
Still, is there any preferred method for testing it without installing it? And to store it?

AS a side note, I keep a pack of Puppy Training Pads in my shop for anytime I mess with brake fluid or oil.
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post #6 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigThump View Post
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/3

This is the schematic for a 2016 DL1000. Just click on the clutch in the "Select Parts" box. Since you already installed a new one and are just rebuilding the old, I would start with just going cheap by replacing #23, #34 and see if that gets it. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the link!

I ordered part 23, I already have a part 34 at home.

for reference to others here is the image I am looking at:



Part 23 looks like the piston seal/ring or whatever it's called. My assumption is if it is leaking it is most likely either a scored cylinder or a messed up sealing ring.

..Tom
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2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #7 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVDucati View Post
Curious: It seems that V-Tom might be going to keep the rebuilt unit as a spare. I'm sure the rebuild will be a success.
Still, is there any preferred method for testing it without installing it? And to store it?
...
If it looks like the "rebuild" works I will just put it on and try it out. It only takes about 30-40 minutes or less to change and bleed the system. Even without coffee in me!


Boring story what brought me to this point:

The leak was quite a slow one and hard to be sure it was a leak until Monday as I had ridden a lot in the rain lately. Monday was the fist day I got some riding in without rain and I parked the bike before dinner. Before bedtime I went out and looked and there was a fresh puddle and the fluid level was down. I topped it up with fluid thinking I was going to ride in to work Tuesday and replace the slave cylinder when I got home. I normally get up around 6:40 for work but woke up at 6 and couldn't sleep. So I said why don't I change the cylinder before work? Even without coffee in my system it took less than 40 minutes to swap out and bleed the system.

..Tom
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2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #8 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackPacker View Post
First look at the old one. If the inner cylinder walls are pitted, don't even attempt it. It might be possible to sand the pitting away if it's not too deep, but it's most likely not going to be cost-effective.

If the walls are smooth, then all you really need is a new seal. #24 in this picture:
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/...rcycles/clutch

The very first DL1000s, essentially only the 2002 model, and maybe some 2003s as well, did not come with the dust cap. #25A. If you're ordering parts, get that one as well.

Rebuilding is just putting the parts together. There are no fasteners to fasten or anything. It's all being held together by either vacuum or a C-clamp (when off the bike) or by the clutch springs (on the bike).
Thanks for the advice!

I did order the part 24 in your picture. I already had the dust cap at home. I haven't inspected the cylinder yet but will. It will likely be after Sunday (I'm off work Monday's.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #9 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimmer View Post
You can also buy a brake cylinder hone at most any autoparts store that will attach to a hand drill if you want to try cleaning up the surface inside. The trick there is to get the rhythm down for going in and out to achieve that diamond cross hatch. It seems these clutch cylinders are pretty short so it might be extra tricky (and perhaps not worth the effort as mentioned above).

Another bit of advice, be it good or bad... I only use the appropriate brake fluid during all of the cleaning, reconditioning, and reassembly. I suppose one could use other fluids so long as the "final rinse" is with the correct brake fluid to remove any other incompatible chemistry. The rubber bits in hydraulics work very hard and are typically chemically sensitive.
Thanks!

My skill level would dictate that I would not hone it. I don't see myself as having the skill for that. DOT 4 brake fluid is pretty cheap.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #10 of 20 Old 04-24-2019, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVDucati View Post

...And to store it?
...
That is a good question. In a Zip-lock Sandwich bag, perhaps with Dot 4 fluid in it? (Will the fluid eat the plastic?)

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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