Brake Light stopped working - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #1 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Light stopped working

Looking for some help as I've been unable to figure out why my brake light stopped working.

The running light bulb works but when I squeeze either the front brake lever or the rear brake pedal, the bulb doesn't brighten.

I'm having a hard time believing both the front and rear switches went at the same time. I've checking the wiring under the seat at the tail and there doesn't seem to be any issues.

I'm thinking maybe a relay issue but I don't know enough. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 05:32 PM
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Just asking...but did you look at the bulb(s)? What year WEE?

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 03-25-2019 at 05:34 PM.
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post #3 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 05:32 PM
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Tail light filament is not integral with the brake light filament. The brake light filament can be defective/burnt out and the tail light will still be lit. Pull the bulb and check.
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post #4 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by baggio95 View Post
Looking for some help as I've been unable to figure out why my brake light stopped working.

The running light bulb works but when I squeeze either the front brake lever or the rear brake pedal, the bulb doesn't brighten.

I'm having a hard time believing both the front and rear switches went at the same time. I've checking the wiring under the seat at the tail and there doesn't seem to be any issues.

I'm thinking maybe a relay issue but I don't know enough. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I suggest that you take the bulb out and verify that the brake function filament is intact. Applying +12V to both contact points, with the return connected to the flange, should illuminate both the brake and running light. If they both work, plug it back in. You may find that this has cured the problem. (I cured the same problem with mine that way once.) I think that the contact point material is a non-noble metal which oxidizes over time with temperature cycling and vibration, finally becoming too resistive to allow enough current to pass. Removing and reinstalling the bulb breaks through the oxide. You could even scrape the contacts clean before putting the bulb back in.
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post #5 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I'll pull the bulb and check.

The bike is a 2014 DL1000
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post #6 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 06:17 PM
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is 2014 fitted with bulb or LED? I could swear it was LED but now I'm in doubt.

2017 DL1000 White
2014 DL1000 Red (sold)
2012 DL650 White (sold)
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post #7 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Bosnjo,
You are correct, it's LEDs. Any other ideas?
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post #8 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 06:27 PM
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I would pull apart the connections, clean with electric contact cleaner and retest your brake light. If that works and you found no corrosion, apply dielectric grease around the connector but not on the contacts to keep water out going forward.

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post #9 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 06:27 PM
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Baggio, I'm in my '14 DL1000 wiring schematic.
You have 3 wires going to that LED bulb. One is a Black/White wire which is a common ground running to battery (-). Another is Brown from the ignition switch, and the 3rd is a White/Black wire running to both front and rear brake switches. A White/Green from the #2 Signal fuse powers both front and rear brake switches.
You have a ground in the B/W wire, otherwise the running lamp portion of the bulb wouldnt be operating. The running lamp portion of the bulb is working which means the Ignition Switch Brown wire is powered. Which leaves the White/Black wire from both brake switches, the White/Green wire running from the #2 Signal fuse, or the #2 Signal fuse itself as possible culprits IF you dont have power at the 3-wire bulb socket with either brake switches activated--OR the bulb connection or bulb itself itself as the possible culprits. In the socket you have 2 powers, one from the ignition switch key ON, and one from either brake switches, and a ground. If you have the powers and grounds youre supposed to have, it HAS to be bullb-related.

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 03-25-2019 at 07:11 PM.
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post #10 of 30 Old 03-25-2019, 06:30 PM
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You rear brake switch will need adjusting 100%

Your brake light will be working but it will permanently on.


You need to put some slack in the spring between the brake pedal and the light switch.
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