Limp Mode: Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator c28 & c65 - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #11 of 18 Old 03-17-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post
It's this set of wires that could be the problem. I put extra protection around them and tied them down good:
Thanks blaustrom, that photo helps. I will be looking at and defending those wires.

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post #12 of 18 Old 03-17-2019, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NVDucati View Post
Grimmer, No I don't have a service manual. (both your photos did publish) But I understand what you are saying.
You prompt a question:
I read somewhere that with the airbox exposed you can see the butterflies open and close when you turn on the key as a part of the pre-test. Do you know if that is true?
Also I will definitely check all the physical connections and wiring.
I'm still puzzled that it takes a few miles for it to fail. I guess that could be exposed wires heating up from partial contact, huh.
Sorry it took so long... I've been arguing with a dirt bike clutch this afternoon.

Yes, the secondary throttle valves are the top most flap in the throttle bodies. You can see them with the airbox removed, and probably even with the bottom of the airbox in place with the filter removed. Look down the tube, if you can see a butterfly valve, that is the secondary throttle valve. (The primaries are on the bottom of the throttle bodies.)

I have added some annotations to the photo (I hope they are large enough to read). Probably the first thing to do is remove the airbox and turn on the ignition to see if they are moving. If they are moving, then I would check the feed back voltage. From there I would move to the DTC diagnosis procedures for checking the wiring between the ECM and the throttle body parts.

The procedure in the service manual for measuring the voltage across the feedback wires to adjust the position of the secondary throttle position sensor. (The primaries have a nice display in the instrument cluster, but the secondaries you have to go to the source with a multi-meter). You probably don't need adjust it, but you can try measuring the voltage to see if it is working. The manual says to unplug the bottom connector that causes them to move, turn on the ignition with the top connector still connected. And measure the voltage between the Y and B/Br wires while holding the secondary throttle valve completely closed with your finger. You should get approximately 0.6V. (I pushed some sowing pins into the top of the connector to get the multi-meter probes something to use.)

There are several other pages for testing for continuity and shorts in the wires between the ECM connector and the secondary throttle valve motor and sensor.
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post #13 of 18 Old 03-17-2019, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks very helpful. I could read the annotations by dragging the image to my desktop and enlarging.
I have it on the lift and the tank off ... I will need to do some more terrestrial things til Tuesday afternoon. But then I'm back at it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimmer View Post
Sorry it took so long... I've been arguing with a dirt bike clutch this afternoon.

Yes, the secondary throttle valves are the top most flap in the throttle bodies. You can see them with the airbox removed, and probably even with the bottom of the airbox in place with the filter removed. Look down the tube, if you can see a butterfly valve, that is the secondary throttle valve. (The primaries are on the bottom of the throttle bodies.)

I have added some annotations to the photo (I hope they are large enough to read). Probably the first thing to do is remove the airbox and turn on the ignition to see if they are moving. If they are moving, then I would check the feed back voltage. From there I would move to the DTC diagnosis procedures for checking the wiring between the ECM and the throttle body parts.

The procedure in the service manual for measuring the voltage across the feedback wires to adjust the position of the secondary throttle position sensor. (The primaries have a nice display in the instrument cluster, but the secondaries you have to go to the source with a multi-meter). You probably don't need adjust it, but you can try measuring the voltage to see if it is working. The manual says to unplug the bottom connector that causes them to move, turn on the ignition with the top connector still connected. And measure the voltage between the Y and B/Br wires while holding the secondary throttle valve completely closed with your finger. You should get approximately 0.6V. (I pushed some sowing pins into the top of the connector to get the multi-meter probes something to use.)

There are several other pages for testing for continuity and shorts in the wires between the ECM connector and the secondary throttle valve motor and sensor.

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post #14 of 18 Old 03-21-2019, 01:52 PM
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Did you fix the clutch switch yet?
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-22-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Did you fix the clutch switch yet?
Yes I did but sadly that was unrelated. This morning I gave up after testing all the things Grimmer was so helpful with.
They ran their official diagnostic tool on it and it showed two additional codes, all in the fuel injection family. (the shop tool uses a different number system)
So after a while they decided that they needed a factory guy to conference in on it. Likely no answer til Tuesday. Stay tuned.

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post #16 of 18 Old 03-30-2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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GreyWolf was right again ! SOLVED

Just got a call from my dealer - my bike is ready and runs fine.

A few posts ago Bad Dad asked if I had fixed the clutch switch. I answered, yes. I took it out and cleaned some mild mung. Reinstalled it and the bike went back to not starting with the clutch lever out. But I didn't replace the switch. And yeah that was the problem. The dealer did all the same tests that Grimmer had suggested and then made a second call to the boys at HQ. They were told to replace the switch anyway just for good measure. Tah Dah !

It seems that the same core ECU (some variants) is used in the Gixers. Same problem. Same fix.

I know we tend to bad mouth dealers but I got to say that the guys at Powersports of Vallejo Vallejo, CA (707) 644-3756 hung in there. They did a lot of work and only charged me for the switch replacement.

And yes I have ordered a spare switch to live under the seat. It should be added to all the threads about "what spares do you carry".

Thanks Greywolf, still helping us.
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post #17 of 18 Old 03-30-2019, 08:24 PM
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Thanks, good advice. This has been an issue for some, so I added it to my proactive replacement schedule.

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post #18 of 18 Old 03-30-2019, 08:26 PM
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I was in my local shop and got talking to the head guy about a Kawasaki they were having issues with and I suggested they replace the clutch switch.

It fixed the problem they had spent days chasing, it was a lesson for them and made me look like a genius.
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