So, forks are done, low speed feels good off the bike, I don't think its possible to tell more without a fork dyno, or a proper ride.
As for the job, I like to know 'how, and with what?
If you have the skills to set your own valve lash, or put a new piston in a 2 stroke, you can do either of these 2 fork upgrades easy. If not, you may still be up to the task, But! You will need a few odd tools.
It cant be done without the cartridge holding tool as race tech calls it. Its $65, but you need it or equivalent, cartridge cant be removed without it.
The proper spring compressor would be nice to have, but you can make due with a piece of heavy wall 2" to 2 1/2" pipe drilled and tapped with two 5/16" bolts. You will probably need a helper to insert the slotted spring retainer immediately after compressing the spring. (I used a piece of 3/16" flat stock with a 10mm slot ground in it). The OEM spring was easy, the heavier 95Kg unit was a bit hard to do on my own.
A vise with some blocks of wood for holding the cartridge when taping the valve body's off, clamping the rod holding tool (comes with the R.T. kit) and a slot drilled in the wood blocks to hold the valve body's when torquing them together.
Torque wrench, hammer, chisel to tap off OEM comp body, and a scrap of wood works in the rebound valve groove to tap with hammer to remove.
Ok, if that doesn't scare you, here's a few tips.
1, All 5 wt fork oils/fluids are not the same... Ignore the rating when using a different brand. The OEM oil in my forks was like maple syrup. My manual called it Suzuki L01, and web says at 40C its a viscosity of 15.5.
Race tech, for their valving recommends their USF-05 oil, which is said to be rebranded Spectro golden cartridge fork fluid 85/150 5wt, viscosity 16.9, and virtually the same numbers as Maxima 85/150 5wt racing formula high performance fork fluid (blue lable) viscosity of 15.9. All of which pour more like milk, which is odd, as the OEM oil was way thicker, makes me think my manual is a misprint. Do your own research. I used the 10wt 165/150 Maxima racing fork fluid (viscosity 32) because it made me feel good.? If its a bit stiff, Ill swap it for their 7 or 5 or 3wt.
2. Bleeding the cartridge. This is helpful even if your just changing the fluid. The Race tech instructions have you use a rod that threads onto the damper rod and pump it up and down. I just used either my fingers or the fork cap and pumped, which did nothing. Don't bother, a web search revealed the answer. So just pour the fluid in about 2 inches from the top, but rather then stroking the rod ( your smirking now ) pull up on the outer tube about 8", then cup your hand over the top sealing the air in, and pump it down compressing the air in the fork and hold for a second, then release the air and repeat. After 4 times, stroke the rod a few times and repeat with the hand air pressure technique. It works quick and easy.
3. Don't pull up on the outer tube too far when the cap is removed from the rod or you will about pull it off, spill oil, and risk damaging the seals. I grabbed the fork and lifted by the tube on accident and made a total mess. You are now warned...
4. Race tech has their flaws, I was shorted shims in my SHO6 shim pack and didn't have 2 of the 0.15mm thick shims, or the 0.10x19mm for each forks valving. I contacted Grimmer, he said he had similar issue, and they shipped him what he needed. I found a calculation to convert and it said 2 of .15 thick shims is almost identical to 7.4 of the .10mm shims. I didn't want to wait, so used 7 of the 0.10mm in place of the 2 missing 0.15mm. I Found this moment of inertia calculation as well as other good suspension info here:
Tomorrow the forks go back on, but until all this darn snow melts, there will be no test ride till spring. Ill report back after a good ride on the trails come May.