Vee 2 suspension, Sasquatch & Race Tech - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #1 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Vee 2 suspension, Sasquatch & Race Tech

This post originated inside Motocanadas post on the Vee 2 Traction Dynamics front fork cartridge upgrade, as well as the Touratech remote Rezy rear shock he reviewed. @ 190 lbs, I went the route of Race Tech Gold valve combo kit in the front with heavier 0.95kg/mm springs, then did the rear shock rebuild and re valve to the OEM shock with a 650 Lb spring all done by Sasquatch (Jay Jobs at Adventure Power Sports LLC)

Since my route is quite different then motocanada's hardware, I'm moving my info into this post. However I do urge you to read his full topics, including his article that there is a link to in the original post here:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a...geupgrade.html

Stay tuned while I move my info.
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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I did the Sasquatch rear shock upgrade with a 650# spring (the 700# seemed pretty stiff, so I ordered a 650# 2.25"x8" Eibach from Summit racing) the shock is definitely stiffer dampening, and looks like a new shaft, or it was professionally cross hatch polished to like new. Pending a test ride when the snow melts, it feels better just bouncing in place on the bike. Also got the 0.95kg/mm front springs from Sasquatch. I'm in process of getting registration set up with Race Tech so I can order the gold valve combo kit and removal tool.

I didn't like the stock white plastic spring preload spacer in the forks, and didn't want to just add 3 washers or use the bare tube that came with the springs. So I spun up some custom bushings to use various lengths of the aluminum tube, making it easy to adjust by swapping tube lengths to replace the plastic stock spacer altogether.

At 190lbs with OEM parts, I had to crank my front preload in all the way and still had too much sag. So I wanted to spin them back out, and have sag set with longer spacers so I can later crank up preload if I get fat or load the bike up. As of now. I'm starting with 10mm longer then stock setup and preload at lightest setting. Seems good on a bathroom scale, but wont know for sure till their on the bike.

All installed, my preload following the Race Tech measuring procedure shows I'm at 10.2mm of preload. Their DVS valving calculator for my 195 lb, adventure riding, class B, standard stiffness showed the 0.95kg springs with a preload of 8mm and sag of 50mm. So well see where actual sag ends up when all installed.

Ill follow up after the gold valves are here.
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Last edited by Berksglh; 02-24-2019 at 10:41 AM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Since I havnt seen picks of the Racetech gold valve kit for the V2 yet, heres what showed up today. The combo kit, and the removal tool. There is also a card I removed that comes in the box with access codes for your 1 free online shim stack calculator session. Ill follow-up Saturday Sunday after one leg is fully assembled, and compared to the other stock unit, with and without springs.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the stock compression head disassembled. I think if a guy was handy enough to get to this point, you could move a few of the blue spacer shims into the stack and stiffen it up for no cost other then your time of trial and error. Or order a replacement shim set (# SH06 SC252502C) from race tech and try to build your own shim stack on the OEM head. There were about 16 total shims in the race tech comp head, and there are only 4 plus a goofy slotted one on the OEM unit. Discs on right are the check and main compression flow holes, discs to left are the tiny shim stack and 5 spacer

I believe this small stack would be even worse if you use a thinner more common fork fluid, as the OEM stuff was like maple syrup or maybe a 50-60 wt motor oil in how it flowed when pouring it out.

Edit: the 5 spacer shims are way too thick to use in the main stack. Their all 0.30mm shims.

Last edited by Berksglh; 02-24-2019 at 10:13 AM.
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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So, forks are done, low speed feels good off the bike, I don't think its possible to tell more without a fork dyno, or a proper ride.

As for the job, I like to know 'how, and with what?

If you have the skills to set your own valve lash, or put a new piston in a 2 stroke, you can do either of these 2 fork upgrades easy. If not, you may still be up to the task, But! You will need a few odd tools.

It cant be done without the cartridge holding tool as race tech calls it. Its $65, but you need it or equivalent, cartridge cant be removed without it.

The proper spring compressor would be nice to have, but you can make due with a piece of heavy wall 2" to 2 1/2" pipe drilled and tapped with two 5/16" bolts. You will probably need a helper to insert the slotted spring retainer immediately after compressing the spring. (I used a piece of 3/16" flat stock with a 10mm slot ground in it). The OEM spring was easy, the heavier 95Kg unit was a bit hard to do on my own.

A vise with some blocks of wood for holding the cartridge when taping the valve body's off, clamping the rod holding tool (comes with the R.T. kit) and a slot drilled in the wood blocks to hold the valve body's when torquing them together.

Torque wrench, hammer, chisel to tap off OEM comp body, and a scrap of wood works in the rebound valve groove to tap with hammer to remove.

Ok, if that doesn't scare you, here's a few tips.

1, All 5 wt fork oils/fluids are not the same... Ignore the rating when using a different brand. The OEM oil in my forks was like maple syrup. My manual called it Suzuki L01, and web says at 40C its a viscosity of 15.5.

Race tech, for their valving recommends their USF-05 oil, which is said to be rebranded Spectro golden cartridge fork fluid 85/150 5wt, viscosity 16.9, and virtually the same numbers as Maxima 85/150 5wt racing formula high performance fork fluid (blue lable) viscosity of 15.9. All of which pour more like milk, which is odd, as the OEM oil was way thicker, makes me think my manual is a misprint. Do your own research. I used the 10wt 165/150 Maxima racing fork fluid (viscosity 32) because it made me feel good.? If its a bit stiff, Ill swap it for their 7 or 5 or 3wt.

2. Bleeding the cartridge. This is helpful even if your just changing the fluid. The Race tech instructions have you use a rod that threads onto the damper rod and pump it up and down. I just used either my fingers or the fork cap and pumped, which did nothing. Don't bother, a web search revealed the answer. So just pour the fluid in about 2 inches from the top, but rather then stroking the rod ( your smirking now ) pull up on the outer tube about 8", then cup your hand over the top sealing the air in, and pump it down compressing the air in the fork and hold for a second, then release the air and repeat. After 4 times, stroke the rod a few times and repeat with the hand air pressure technique. It works quick and easy.

3. Don't pull up on the outer tube too far when the cap is removed from the rod or you will about pull it off, spill oil, and risk damaging the seals. I grabbed the fork and lifted by the tube on accident and made a total mess. You are now warned...

4. Race tech has their flaws, I was shorted shims in my SHO6 shim pack and didn't have 2 of the 0.15mm thick shims, or the 0.10x19mm for each forks valving. I contacted Grimmer, he said he had similar issue, and they shipped him what he needed. I found a calculation to convert and it said 2 of .15 thick shims is almost identical to 7.4 of the .10mm shims. I didn't want to wait, so used 7 of the 0.10mm in place of the 2 missing 0.15mm. I Found this moment of inertia calculation as well as other good suspension info here:

https://Www.peterverdone.com/archive/highspeed.htm

Tomorrow the forks go back on, but until all this darn snow melts, there will be no test ride till spring. Ill report back after a good ride on the trails come May.
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Last edited by Berksglh; 02-24-2019 at 10:18 AM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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(Edited Feb 24) These were discussed in Motocanadas post, but since I used them and some people may not go read that post, I'm re-posting my thoughts here.

here's my take on them. and why I installed them and think they are a good upgrade.

The K-tech clickers wont make any drastic change to dampening range, other then they have a parabolic taper flow curve. simply put, the OEM clickers make the largest change in dampening in the first half of click range from full closed, after that, there isn't much change in dampening. the K-tech adjusters parabolic flow curve compensates for this, making the first few clicks dampening affect a bit less, and the last few clicks a bit more, so you actually do get a larger or rather finer adjustment range that's predictable across the full range of clicks and more usable. Thanks to Motocanada for finding these little beauties.

Follow this link for more info, about half way down you see the clickers, read just above that:
https://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm


Here's the new vrs. old clickers. If you keep stock internals, the new clickers don't really seem to help, as the fork valving is so bad, you end up cranking either set tight and it still bottoms. Opening them doesn't seem to make it worse, as its so bad to start with.

I do believe if you upgrade internal valving, either clicker would work fine. The aftermarket ones give you finer control via a better needle design.

I'm going to give the Race Tech internals a shot. I don't mind changing the valving a few times to get it right if it saves me a couple hundred bucks, vrs the more expensive route.

Good luck to all.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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On the K-tech adjusters:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motocanada View Post
Unscrew the compression damper adjuster body from both bottom fork legs. the whole thing then throw them in the garbage. they don't adjust at all. Replace it with
K-Tech part #20K-FCV-KYB3
That fits any of:
ZX6R 2003/04
ZX10R 2004 to 2010
R6 2006
R1 2004 to 2008
They don't have a listed fitment for the Vee2, but they fit if ordered as above. Heres where I ordered mine from:

https://www.orientexpress.com/p-8016...ariantID=18778

In Canada you can get them here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motocanada View Post
accelerated technologies.
john sharrard
tell him the same part as I used and give him the part number. he'll sort you.

[email protected]
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-24-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Heres a few shots of the Sasquatch modified OEM shock with Eibach spring, his spacers and the Nitrogen refill screw (self sealing ruber insert, you need a needle fill adapter to charg it. DONT remove the screw or the 150psi nitrogen charge will vent out).

I later used gloss black Rustolium appliance epoxy spray paint to repaint the top of the shock where the nitrogen fill plug was added. That is my only knock on the shock upgrade so far. A dab of spray paint would have gone a long way to to impress me more, but No big deal as long as he paid attention to details on the inside of the shock.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-29-2019, 09:13 AM
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Excellent write up! Thanks for posting. I'll be working on my suspension soon.

18 1000 XT yellow. Bunch of goodies installed.
2015 Yamaha WR250F- Street plated woods bike
Previous rides- about 25 different bikes, mostly dirtbikes.
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post #10 of 13 Old 04-18-2019, 08:34 PM
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Berksglh,

How's that new suspension working for you? All dialed in yet?
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