Changing coolant on 2015 DL1000. Any tips? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 09-01-2018, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Changing coolant on 2015 DL1000. Any tips?

I just changed my air filter and thought that while I'm messing around I may as well change my coolant. (It's only a bit over three years but over 91,000 miles/147,00 km so it is more than due.

It looks pretty straightforward based on the shop manual.

I'm going to grab some Glycol based aluminum compatible coolant, ideally long life. The manual shows the bolts etc to doi and mentions moving the bike back left an right to get rid of bubble,etc.

Any other tips?

Thanks,

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #2 of 20 Old 09-01-2018, 11:51 PM
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I imagine it is like the Gen 1 I had. Mine burped a bubble out a few times when I rode it and I had to add coolant twice. Then all settled down. My shop manual had a procedure for burping, which I forgot and I gave the manual to my buddy who has the bike now.
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post #3 of 20 Old 09-01-2018, 11:56 PM
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V-Tom, when doing cooling system service on motorcycles I usually use Subaru Pre-Mix Coolant. Made for all aluminum engines, simplifies filling as there is no need to mix with water. Subaru also has a long-Life coolant, as does Mazda--5-year/60K miles and it works equally well. I use one or the other.
The manual's procedure is pretty simple, but I do this also:
In addition to any air-bleed bolts, I remove the coolant hose from the highest coolant port on the engine to bleed out more air, and sometimes add coolant to the open hose before reattaching to the engine port.
Run the engine til warm with a clean drain pan under the radiator/engine area. If it starts pushing coolant out of the radiator, you'll have that drained coolant to pour back in. If it really starts bubbling out, stop the engine and let the coolant level settle down, about 10 minutes. Restart the engine and repeat the filling/bleeding procedure. Install the radiator cap. Run the engine until the radiator cooling fan cycles on and off at least twice and watch the temp gauge. if the fan doesnt come on, you may have to power and ground the cooling fan motor, or jump the fan relay to get the fan to operate. I say this because on the way back from Deals Gap last in '17, I was stuck in traffic for over an hour, ambient temperature shown on my my ambient temp gauge was 116F...and my fan never came on and my coolant gauge never went above 3 bars. Once your sure the system is full and as hot as it will get, shut the engine off and let it sit for 30-60 minutes. Remove the radiator cap, fill the rest of the way, replace the cap, loosen the bleeder bolt and squeeze a radiator hose to remove bubbles, keep it squeezed as you tighten the bleeder. Then again remove the cap, and fill the radiator and bring the coolant reservoir up to the correct level. Done!! Have fun!
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post #4 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 12:10 AM
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Some have mentioned that when changing the chemistry you should flush (or fill, run, then drain a couple of times) with distilled water.

There has been debate about the necessity, but some chemicals do not play well together and may precipitate out some solids, or may gel up, or may work just fine with no problems. Regardless, it is widely recommended that any water you use should be distilled (not tap) whether you flush or not.

Also note that you won't get all the flush water out. Not such a big deal on cars that hold a couple gallons, but a much higher percentage on these bikes that only hold a couple quarts. Generally that can be mitigated by adding the 50% volume of pure coolant first then topping off with water to achieve the remaining 50% which will include the flush water that didn't come drain out of the system. Doesn't work so well with pre-mix though...
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post #5 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 12:21 AM
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I am prepared to receive crap here, but 3 years is pretty soon to R&R coolant for an all aluminum engine. With coolant, it gets weak with age more than miles. I use a pH tester on mine and have gone to 5 years on coolants in my aluminum block/head engines. Even at 5 years, pH still looks pretty good.

MAZ4ME has his favorites and I do too. I work on Toyotas and Hondas a lot. I think Toyota red and Honda green are superior coolants. I suspect MAZ4ME's OEM brands are good also.

The coolant should be NON SILICATE. I like mixing it because it is cheaper to buy. I assume you know to use distilled water when mixing.

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post #6 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty certain I will be buying a pre-mixed coolant. The only place I'll be able to get any coolant is Canadian Tire so I will likely buy a name brand pre-mix like Prestone, glycol based as that is what the manual recommends and I suspect would have the most likelihood of being compatible with any factory stuff left in the system.

I'm not concerned with saving a few bucks. I'd rather spend a few more bucks and keep it quick and easy.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.



Last edited by V-Tom; 09-04-2018 at 01:07 PM. Reason: correcdted of coolant
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post #7 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 12:45 AM
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VTom, I'm not too thrilled with Prestone. Ive seen this coolant clump up at the bottom of the jug, had it clump in the bottom of radiators. The coolants I use for bikes-usually Mazda or Subaru is chosen because they are 60K-mile coolants, have never had a problem using them, and as a dealer tech, I had instant access to them at a good price. I'm still in contact with my former employer, get an employee discount, one of my sons still works there. I still get calls from them for diagnosis, and they are 2 miles from my house.
Ive never had problems using Toyota Red, Subaru Blue, or Mazda Green or Gold either.
Suzuki has their specified coolants also: 990A0-02E00-010 Long Life Coolant $8.95/qt
990A0-02E10-010 Coolant 50-50 Premix $7.49/qt
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post #8 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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I work at a Porsche Dealership so could easily get Porsche's lifetime coolant. I just thought this eve while I had the Tupperware and tank off I'd do the coolant since the manual mentioned a lot less mileage than what I have over the bike.

Maybe I'll not worry about it for now.

Thanks,

Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #9 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 01:15 AM
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There's another aspect to this service: Do you want to change the thermostat, any hoses, or water pump while youre at it?
At 91K miles it's something to consider depending on future miles, how long youre going to keep the bike, and possibility of a cooling system component failure.
2 schools of thought here: "If it aint broke, dont fix it." OR... "Replace everything in a 3-foot radius so it doesnt break and you dont have to fix it."
I generally lean towards the latter.
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post #10 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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I had over 200,000 km on my 2006 DL650 and never replaced any coolant parts so I'm inclined to leave them alone.

Engineer credo: 'just because it ain't broken doesn't mean it can't be fixed".

I'm not an engineer..

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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