Looking for more sporty handlebars - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-23-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
jcs
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Looking for more sporty handlebars

I'm interested in adjusting the handlebars into a more sporty (less sweep and possibly less rise) position. I'm creating a new thread because many of the old threads predate the Vee2, and many are about people interested in more sweep and rise.

I find the stock bars ok in normal riding, but when cornering aggressively, I tend to lean forward, which puts stress on my wrists or fatigues my arms after a while. I'm 5'10" and 30" inseam. I have the Sargent low seat.

I've seen aftermarket aluminum bars such as ProTaper and Renthal. Are there any steel options? Maybe OEM bars for another bike? Is there a good way to determine what size bars to use? I'd hate to get a set and decide I wanted them an inch shorter or taller, and I'm unlikely to order multiple bars. I've rotated the stock bars up a bit and felt it was a significant improvement.

-jcs
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jcs View Post
...

I've seen aftermarket aluminum bars such as ProTaper and Renthal. Are there any steel options? Maybe OEM bars for another bike? Is there a good way to determine what size bars to use? I'd hate to get a set and decide I wanted them an inch shorter or taller, and I'm unlikely to order multiple bars. I've rotated the stock bars up a bit and felt it was a significant improvement.

Steel handle bars bend more easily than aluminum.

Tusk aluminum bars are about half the cost of ProTapers or Renthals. They come in most of the popular bends.

Here's the Handlebar info page @ Rocky MTN. ATV

As to what bend to get try sitting on your bike eyes closed and reach out to a comfortable position. Don't grab the bars just place your hands where they feel good. Open your eyes and compare to where your bars sit now.

It's kind of hard to measure bars accurately but get an idea what the OEM measures. The dimensions could be on the net somewhere.

Getting a set of Rox rotating risers really help fine tuning the position. They make selecting bars less critical also.

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 10:57 AM
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Have you ever had track/road racing coaching? Please don't take offense if you have or haven't. Your body mechanics and technique can make all the difference. Using your core to support your upper body and gripping the tank purposefully with your knees should take the pressure off the wrists. The arms should be bent comfortably and loose on the bars.

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post #4 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 12:01 PM
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Thanks for the links @Spec . I need to find some bars with less rear sweep, like nearly zero. My right wrist does not like the V2 bars.
I have Rox pivoting risers on each of my four bikes. Love those things.

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post #5 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 01:19 PM
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I rarely think one person's preference around fit issues should be taken as instructive for another. Not that they're wrong, just that bodies and tastes vary a lot. But, I'll throw out my two cents worth anyway. Like you observed, most seem to want to sit up straighter with higher bars and more sweep. I wanted to lean in a bit more and my wrists really seem to struggle with much sweep. On my '04 Wee I have BikeMaster "European" bars. I have been very happy with the change. That said, over 3 decades of fitting bicycles for people taught me that hand, wrist, and even shoulder discomfort is very often resolved at the seat. A seat that slopes forward tends to make you slide forward. This has one using their arms to push back in order to stay back on the comfortable, wider part of the seat. Bending at the wrist is usually part of that reaction and that really aggravates nerves in the wrist. The stock Strom seat can do this for many, I have no experience with the Sargent. I have modified my stock seat with a bit firmer foam shaped to keep me back against the step to the passenger seat. I am 6', skinny, and long accustomed to a racing position on bicycles. I log numerous 1000+ mile days each year in relative comfort. YMMV.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcs View Post
I'm interested in adjusting the handlebars into a more sporty (less sweep and possibly less rise) position.
. Are there any steel options? Maybe OEM bars for another bike? Is there a good way to determine what size bars to use?
-jcs
I'd suggest measuring the ones you have. Then go to a couple of the larger supply houses like Rocky. You will see that they give the dimensions of the bars they sell.
Example: Renthal 7/8" Road Bars
Dimensions:
Ultra Low Bend: Width 28.54", Height 2.95", Pull Back 3.74"
Low Bend: Width 28.74", Height 4.13", Pull Back 4.92"
Medium Bend: Width 28.54", Height 4.53", Pull Back 4.13"
High Bend: Width 27.95", Height 4.72", Pull Back 4.13"
Street Fighter Bend: Width 29.72", Height 3.94", Pull Back 3.15"

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post #7 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I know you can't reach out through the internet and tell me what will fit me best ;-) For what these bars cost it might make sense to buy a few, put them on the clamps and evaluate (before putting the grips and everything on). When I close my eyes and reach my hands out, my hands hit the handlebars before they are where I want them to be. My last bike was a YZF600, so I'm used to a lot more forward lean.

I've heard aluminum bars vibrate more and conduct heat more. I have the OEM heated grips (not that I use them much in my climate). Sounds like others have adapted with a bit of rubber tubing between the grip and the handlebar.

-jcs
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 09:01 PM
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I've heard aluminum bars vibrate more and conduct heat more.
-jcs
No and no. Alloy bars flex more without bending, and so absorb vibrations more. And steel is a better transmitter of heat.

Most dirt bike bars are lower than adventure bars, but they tend not to weep in as much. Perhaps some adjustable risers like the Rox, cranked forward, with some dirt bike bars with their ends chopped off might suit.

Other than that, just look around at various bikes for bars that might be suitable. Keep in mind though that a V-Strom fits a different purpose to a YZF600. Also remember that if you do move them forward that there may be clearance issues with the screen.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-28-2019, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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I just got the Pro Taper atv mid bars, but I haven't installed them yet. I've read what other people have done with fuel line and smaller nuts and washers, that makes sense. What do you do about the rubber damper on the end? It doesn't fit in the aluminum bars either.

Thanks,
Jcs

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post #10 of 11 Old 03-07-2019, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
Alloy bars flex more without bending, and so absorb vibrations more.
Yes. Al will not bend much depending on the grade. It likes to break because it is very stiff. That's why I like steel brake and shift levers over Al, they'll bend before they break and can be straightened when you have that eventual off and turn one of them into a "U".

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And steel is a better transmitter of heat.
No. Steel can withstand more heat and holds it longer but doesn't transfer it as quickly as Al. That's why all your cooking pans today have Al cores in them.

Last edited by JustAnotherDude; 03-07-2019 at 11:54 PM.
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