ECU, Revisited - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-23-2018, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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ECU, Revisited

backstory: Bought a 2015 about 3 months ago. Noticed that it had the mid RPM vibration between 3200-4200RPM, low RPM surge/hammer/choppiness below 3200RPM, and really bad choppiness regardless of what gear you were in if you accidentally dipped below 2000RPM. I checked all the forum threads, and it said that for california, the issue was on the J20 and the updated ECU was a J21. The Bike is listed as being part of the open recall on ECU per the dealer, so they said to just bring it in and they would replace. Well.... I checked my ECU before bringing it to the dealer and i already had a J21. The label on the new ECU is actually a J22. I've searched the forums, and I can't find any mention of a J22. Anyone know if this is a even newer update, or if it's maybe a 2018 ECU?

Rideability observations of the J22 ECU: the mid RPM vibration seems to be better, but hard to tell. The below 3200 choppiness is almost completely gone, and the below 2000 chop is smoother, but not gone. Overall a better experience, although it does also seem to be slightly weaker on power. might just be in my head. I'll see if the cold start cutout issue is there at all. I didn't really experience it heavily myself as it went away after 10-15 seconds of riding, but i'll ride and report.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-23-2018, 02:10 PM
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This isn't a cruiser, bike needs the RPM's up a bit higher to perform properly. Try to keep RPM's between 3500 and 6000 and problem resolved.

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Originally Posted by joelrf600r View Post
backstory: Bought a 2015 about 3 months ago. Noticed that it had the mid RPM vibration between 3200-4200RPM, low RPM surge/hammer/choppiness below 3200RPM, and really bad choppiness regardless of what gear you were in if you accidentally dipped below 2000RPM. I checked all the forum threads, and it said that for california, the issue was on the J20 and the updated ECU was a J21. The Bike is listed as being part of the open recall on ECU per the dealer, so they said to just bring it in and they would replace. Well.... I checked my ECU before bringing it to the dealer and i already had a J21. The label on the new ECU is actually a J22. I've searched the forums, and I can't find any mention of a J22. Anyone know if this is a even newer update, or if it's maybe a 2018 ECU?

Rideability observations of the J22 ECU: the mid RPM vibration seems to be better, but hard to tell. The below 3200 choppiness is almost completely gone, and the below 2000 chop is smoother, but not gone. Overall a better experience, although it does also seem to be slightly weaker on power. might just be in my head. I'll see if the cold start cutout issue is there at all. I didn't really experience it heavily myself as it went away after 10-15 seconds of riding, but i'll ride and report.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 05:29 AM
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According to the Dealer Letter I had my dealer print out for me, the ECU's to be changed were J10, J11, J20; and J21.
The ECU's with the last 3 characters of J12 and J22 were not to be changed.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
According to the Dealer Letter I had my dealer print out for me, the ECU's to be changed were J10, J11, J20; and J21.
The ECU's with the last 3 characters of J12 and J22 were not to be changed.
interesting! This dealer did change it. like i said, this is the first time in any of the forums that i could find that the J22 reference even came up. good to know that it matches the suzuki letter.

--Joel
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-28-2018, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Update:
500+ miles on the J22 ECU, and it's WAY better. in addition to the choppiness being gone, it actually has more rev-ability than the J21 ECU. on the J21, it would get to about 6500 RPM and the revs would start to taper off as it headed to redline, and now it just keeps pulling all the way. I put my aftermarket exhaust back on, and now it's quieter than before and snappier than with the old ECU.

key takeaway: If you have a ECU that falls in the recall zone, go get it replaced to J22! Even if you have done lots of other work to mitigate the issue, it'll only get even better with the newer ECU.

--Joel
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-29-2018, 04:47 AM
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ECU's terminating in "0" and "1" all around the world were recalled and to be changed to ones terminating in "2". When I had '14 model it had "0" ECU and was replaced with "2" one. "1" ECU's were just a try to fix the problems of "0" ECU's but people were reporting that in some cases the problems got even worse. That is why final solution was "2" ECU.
As for your problem with RPM's, this bike was not made to be ridden bellow 3000 rpm. I sometimes do it but you can feel it's not right. So, I try to keep it over 3000 rpm all the time.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-29-2018, 07:07 AM
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The ECU debacle continues on here even after we had ours replaced Seriously

https://www.stromtrooper.com/5308569-post22.html

Cheers

2014 DL1000A 2014 -
2012 DL650L2 2013 - 2014
2007 DL1000 "Bowser" 2009 - 2013

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post #8 of 11 Old 10-01-2018, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by V2man View Post
The ECU debacle continues on here even after we had ours replaced Seriously

https://www.stromtrooper.com/5308569-post22.html

Cheers
Oy.... Thats a bit of a pain in the ass. hope it gets resolved.

And for everyone who is just saying ride it above 3500 RPM... the real world don't work like that. yes, i appreciate the original design intent of the engine (prior owner of a TL100S, TL1000R, and SV1000... i LOVE this motor) but when you're putting around town with stoplights and stop signs and commuting while sharing lanes in stop and go traffic, revs are all up and down the scale. i mean seriously, do you really need to be pulling 3700 for a couple of miles in a 35mph zone in 2nd gear? nah. you drop it to 4th, let it settle out closer to 2200 and just cruise.
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-01-2018, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelrf600r View Post
Update:
500+ miles on the J22 ECU, and it's WAY better. in addition to the choppiness being gone, it actually has more rev-ability than the J21 ECU. on the J21, it would get to about 6500 RPM and the revs would start to taper off as it headed to redline, and now it just keeps pulling all the way. I put my aftermarket exhaust back on, and now it's quieter than before and snappier than with the old ECU.

key takeaway: If you have a ECU that falls in the recall zone, go get it replaced to J22! Even if you have done lots of other work to mitigate the issue, it'll only get even better with the newer ECU.

--Joel
Agreed 110%. I had no drivability issues, but the recall ECU made the bike even better on all counts.
But...last week I put the bike into Dealer Mode, and my TPS adjustment was off. Was at the bottom of the 3 positions instead of at the middle. I adjusted the TPS to the correct position...and the bike is much smoother and stronger at low RPM. More responsive every where. And outside of the Suzuki Tool ($20 shipped, basically a switchable jumper, can be done with a paper clip)) and a T25 Tamperproof Torx wrench, it was an inexpensive deal. It also worked wonders on a hesitating '16 GSX-S1000.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-01-2018, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
Agreed 110%. I had no drivability issues, but the recall ECU made the bike even better on all counts.
But...last week I put the bike into Dealer Mode, and my TPS adjustment was off. Was at the bottom of the 3 positions instead of at the middle. I adjusted the TPS to the correct position...and the bike is much smoother and stronger at low RPM. More responsive every where. And outside of the Suzuki Tool ($20 shipped, basically a switchable jumper, can be done with a paper clip)) and a T25 Tamperproof Torx wrench, it was an inexpensive deal. It also worked wonders on a hesitating '16 GSX-S1000.
For those who are curious about selecting dealer mode, as I was, may I offer this link: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a...connector.html

Now, I suppose the tamperproof T25 is for the TPS adjuster. How did you know the TPS setting? Was there an error code? And can you point to where we make a TPS adjustment?

2014 DL1000 Khaki

Last edited by IDRIDR; 10-01-2018 at 06:35 PM.
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